Archive of BMW Motorrad Club Cape (2006 - 2019)

Last weekend, whilst idling my time away at the Buff, I had a choice... spend the day watching loads of people drink, get drunk, make idiots of themselves and bugger up their bikes, or disappear into the wild blue yonder and go adventuring. The latter won out. I donned my camelbak, packed the camera and headed off towards Oudtshoorn and the Swartberg Pass.

Robinson pass

My first pitstop was the top of Robinson pass to make a quick early-morning call home to check in with the wife and take in the scenery. I don't get up this way too often, so it's nice to have a look-see.

The roadworks and stop/go's further on towards Oudtshoorn were a bit of a pain, taking up a fair amount of my time. Luckily, being on the bike, I could sneak up to the front of the queue and not get stuck behind some truck doing 20km/h through the single lane. I zipped straight through the town and headed towards Prince Albert.

The tar approach road to the pass is beautiful, winding through farmlands, devoid of other traffic, so I could play nicely.

the start

the pass

Next stop, the foot of the pass to let tyre pressures down, and absorb the beauty of the area and wonder if I was doing the right thing - tackling one of the most spectacular passes in the world on my own. Looking at the road winding it's way up the side of the mountain is quite daunting to someone who doesn't ride off-road too often.

History lesson 1 - Swartberg pass was built between 1881 - 1888 to link Oudtshoorn with Prince Albert and beyond into the Karoo by Thomas Bain, son of the reknowned roadbuilder Andrew Geddes Bain (he built Bain's Kloof, amongst others). They used convict labour to build the pass.

There's quite a few signposts on the way up the pass -

Witdraaie - 2 hairpin bends were cut into limestone deposits, giving the road a white appearance

Hotelletjie - Once the pass was completed a postal service between Oudtshoorn and Prince Albert Road was started, a small hotel was built to provide overnight accomodation. The ruins of the hotel are still there.

Skelmdraai - This name certainly conjured up some weird and wonderful ideas about robbers laying in wait for the postal coach, but it's nothing of the sort. To travellers approaching the corner from the north, the road seemed to end there because of the very sharp bend to the left. You only see it once you're right on top of it, hence the name.

Buchukloof - named as such because of the various types of buchu that grow in the area. Apparently it was known as the "medicine chest" of the area.

About two thirds of the way up, I ran into thick mist, so much so that I couldn't see more than 10 metres in front of me. I very carefully picked my way slowly on into the grey wall, scared of running into another car/bike coming from the front. The bends are sharp, and the mist blankets sound quite well, so you don't see or hear anything until you're on top of them.

Before I knew it, I was at "Die Top", the road falling away under my front wheel.

The top

It feels weird sitting totally alone, 1585m above sea level, blanketed in mist, not being able to see a thing around you, listening to the wind whip over the crest.

I was sitting on a rock, drinking coffee (yes, coffee!) from a flask, smoking a cigarette, contemplating the greater scheme of things, when the mist started clearing and gave me a sneak peek at this:

view 1

and this

view 2

and this, behind me

view 3

I was stunned. It's moments like these that make off-road riding so worthwhile and rewarding, sitting alone on top of a mountain, being gobsmacked at the beauty around us every day, yet take for granted most of the time because we're too bloody busy trying to get from point A to point B with no thought for what's out there.

After my epiphanous moment I headed off down the first set of switchbacks and the faily flat section past the Capenature ecology outpost and the turn-off the Die Hell (Gamkaskloof). In this stretch you pass... (history lesson coming up)

Die Ou Tol - The foundations of the original toll house can still be seen at this spot. A small village also existed at this locality during the construction of the pass with a shop, butchery and school. Today nothing remains of this village. On May 5, 1888 notice was given to impose a toll at the summit of the pass. John F Mackay was appointed as the first toll official with a salary of £45 per year. He occupied a house owned by D Kingston. He was responsible for collecting the toll and maintaining the road. A toll fee four pennies per wheel and one penny per animal was charged. The official opening of the pass (1888) and the centenary celebrations (1988) also took place here. A memorial plaque was unveiled by Mr Gene Louw, Administrator of the Cape Province on February 10, 1988. In 1927 an experimental pine plantation consisting of Bishop Pine and Loblolly Pine was started at this locality. Today it serves as a picnic site.

Neville se Draai - A sharp bend on the plateau near the top of the pass was named after John Fitz Neville, Clerk of Works during the construction of the Swartberg Pass. Neville was killed at this spot on March 8, 1888. According to some sources he was killed in a dynamite explosion and according to others he was thrown from his horse.

Teeberg - This viewpoint is named after the well-known honey tea bush growing nearby and which was much sought after by the earlier inhabitants of the area. Dealers used to market honey tea in great quantities and villagers went up the mountain to cut and dry the tea bush for their own use. From the viewpoint at Teeberg the summit of the pass at Die Top is visible to the south and to the north the observer is rewarded with a spectacular view across the Karoo plains to the Nuweveld mountains 120 km away.

Just after Teeberg, you round a corner and see this:

The kloof

The photo doesn't do the scenery any justice at all. This descent is steep, very steep. It's daunting to stand there thinking "I'm about to go down there on a bike!"

The beauty of it is unsurpassed, though. Not a breath of wind, dead silence, the bees abuzzing, the birds doing the things birds do, the road winding off down the kloof. And THEN!... quietly at first, in the distance, you hear the sound of bikes making their way up the pass, their sound bouncing off the walls of the cliffs. I stood watching for ages as 3 GS'es (2 Dakkies and a 1200) slowly snaked their way up towards me, leaving nothing but a dust trail and the sweet sound of their exhausts.

Once they were past me (and exchanged a thumbs-up and smile) I hopped onto my trusty steed and headed off down , following a VERY twisty, windy road into the chasm, heading past signposts hinting at a history of long ago.

Droë Waterval - During the rainy season water occasionally cascades down the rock face at this spot to form a spectacular waterfall. During most of the year however the stream which feds the waterfall is dry – hence the name. An impressive culvert was constructed underneath the road to make provision for the waterfall’s occasional ‘wet and wild’ moments.

Blikstasie - The remains of a stone and clay jail, where part of Bain’s convict labour force were confined at night, can still be seen here.

Malvadraai - As the name indicates geraniums grow in abundance at Malvadraai. It provides a convenient spot to stop and look at the rock formations, which towers above. Malvadraai provides an access point to the Swartberg Hiking Trail.

I nearly saw my "gat" in Malvadraai, I was busy staring up at the rock formations and drifted to the outside of the corner into a patches of marbles, the bike soon let me know I needed to concentrate on what I was doing!

Near the bottom you cross a small drift, Tweede water, and not far from that, right a the entrance to the kloof itself, you cross:

Eerstewater - 

The shallow drift provided an ideal opportunity for outspanning and watering oxen and other draught animals before starting the ascent into the pass. It also served as a convenient spot for the same purpose on exiting the pass. Bain’s first convict base camp was situated at Eerste Water and today the ruins of this camp can still be seen. In later years it became known as Die Dansbaan (the dance floor) as many a young person came to enjoy a waltz under the stars. At the end of each year farmers and their families would gather at this spot, having travelled many a mile by wagon and cart, to attend a very popular New Year’s Eve party. Today a low-water bridge has been built at this river crossing and Eerste Water still provides a social function by serving as a picnic spot.

A short piece of flat gravel takes you on to the tar road into Prince Albert, the Lazy Lizard and a slice of apple pie and clotted cream so good it should be illegal. Their coffee is good too. 

The exit, Prince Albert side

I had enjoyed riding the pass so much that it seemed a shame to head back to Oudtshoorn on tar, so I turned around and went back over the pass, this time... NO MIST! By this time, it was pushing 11:am, and the pass was busy. There's quite a few narrow sections where I had to pull over to let cars through. Extreme caution is advisable when riding this pass, but to everyone out there, its definitely a must-do, be it on a GS or in a cage. You'll regret it if you never do it, believe me!