Archive of BMW Motorrad Club Cape (2006 - 2019)

An Adventure (1200) in the Transkei Riding in the Transkei is like going to the Opera with your babe.. - It is always a mission to get yourself there - Once you are there its amazing and you promise to go back soon again - …. BUT you never really do The last time I rode a bike in the Trankei was 5 years ago and the bike was a KTM 200 EXC, so I was a little nervous when I paid the deposit to do the Trankei trip with Geoff Russell and 11 other people. To add to the nervousness, I was taking a BMW 1200 Adventure along and had only been riding it since April 2007. If you could relate bikes to cars…. a KTM 200 EXC would be like driving a VW Golf in the SA Rally championship. Riding a BMW 1200 Adventure would be like taking a Hummer H2, and fitting it with N.O.S and riding the same terrain.. We met up on Thursday at the Engen garage just outside Somerset West, and after quick introductions and a briefing by Geoff we headed off for the 755 km ride up to PE. I had lots of time to think, and was wondering if a small kit bag and a top box was going to be enough for 10 days of riding.. Meeting and Briefing On the way up, Geoff had a battery failure and I realised how BMW South Africa works.. Everyone had their cell phones out and a few calls later and BMW George (Lynn Schroeder) had not only Geoff’s bike sorted, but managed to find and fix a problem on Neil’s bike as well… The Road Lodge in PE The Road Lodge in PE was a welcome sight after almost 800kms, even if it was along the most beautiful coastline we have in SA, passing through places like Plett, Knysna and Sedgefield. A few drinks at Barney’s and the group started to settle in for the next few days. Tim had joined us from JHB and we were picking Colin up the next day in Port Alfred. That night we bumped into the Lyndhurst Auto BMW guys who were doing a trip from PE to George, but in true JHB style, had flown to PE and couriered their bikes down. They would then fly out of George back to JHB and send the bikes back. Because Tim had ridden his bike down from JHB we decided unanimously to let him continue the trip with us, and not send him off with the Lyndhurst guys. Friday was PE to The Trennery’s hotel near Qolora mouth, meaning that we would have to cross over the Kei river on the Pont. Our tires were let down from 3 Bar to 1.4 Bar front and back and the real riding started. Letting our tires down Crossing over the Pont was like crossing over with John Edwards. Pushing the bikes off the Pont on the “other side” it felt like our riding was now only starting, we had done almost 1000kms to get to the riding area. Crossing the Kei River After a few km’s on the other side of the Kei River we all knew why we had come on the trip. The riding was amazing, and a little bit of everything on the first 2 days. Rocks, sand, gravel, grass and even some water crossings. Geoff watching Grant along a rocky section We had our first few falls and after realising that you can pick up a GS 1200 (more than once) we all became a little more relaxed and the riding improved quickly. Jane and Neil were with us all the way holding a Sony Handicam, and got some great footage over the next few days. Neil the Director and Jane the Camera woman The second day, we visited the Jacaranda shipwreck, and on a sundowner cruise that evening on the river, we watched Legavaan’s and listened to Fish Eagles, as Chris used a rather heavy hand pouring Morgan Bay milkshakes for Colin and Paul. The Jacaranda Our Sundowner cruise and Chris's "heavy" hand Sunday and after 2 days at Trennery’s it was time to head further north to the Mazeppa Bay. We found our first real water crossing challenge and had a tough time walking the 10 bikes through the deep water. The river crossing More water Thank goodness for the back up vehicle and most importantly the cooler box. A quick rest and drink and we were off again. More rocks, more sand trails and more of the most amazing scenery as we rode along the massive hills of the Transkei. Jacques on a rocky section Up one of the hills, I managed to get my bike lying with the rubber side much higher up than the handlebar side, and stuck on its foot rest. So after much pulling and pushing, I made a mental note to buy Colin a few drinks that evening. No this is Colin's bike with the rubber side too high We arrived at Mazeppa Bay Hotel in the late afternoon, and after a swim in the sea, a fantastic massage in the hotel we settled into a great dinner. The guys were tired and we were all asleep early. The mornings were amazing and every day we saw whales and dolphins in the bays. It still seemed like we were in another country. Watching dolphins and whales Monday was Mazeppa to Kob Inn and it seemed weird that we would be doing almost 90kms or riding to cover 3kms as the crow flies. We could almost see Kob Inn from Mazeppa Bay, but being the Transkei we would need to head inland to cross the big rivers. We rode along the coastline and took photos at amazing vantage points, again, continuously seeing whales and dolphins along the route. More whales and dolphins Kob Inn was an awesome place and arrived in the late afternoon. We refuelled our bikes, had the daily tea and coffee and settled into bartering with the locals for their bead bracelets and necklaces. We unpacked, showered and after some great sandwich bar snacks settled in for a few rounds of drinks and chatting about the days riding. Browsing around the bar, there were photos of the sailboat wreck and massive sharks that were caught in the area. Tuesday was Kob Inn to Coffee Bay and my favourite place in the Transkei. I had spent some time there with mates in the past and the Bomvu backpackers was a special place for me. We were staying in the Ocean View hotel, so we knew it was something to look forward to. Tuesday was a long day and the only crash we had on the whole route. Colin had a front end wash out along a sand corner where his front wheel lost traction slipping off a small rut. The damage to his bike and his left elbow meant that he was Abie’s back up vehicle companion for the rest of the trip. Colins tumble Wilna was a great nurse and after sorting Colin’s arm out at the Dwesa Nature reserve we rode through the reserve and its spectacular forests and over some of its rivers. Dwesa nature reserve We arrived at hole in the wall in the late afternoon, and after a few photos we headed for a much deserved drink and break. Grant at Hole in the Wall All too soon we were at Coffee Bay and checking into the Ocean View Hotel. Chris, Jacques and myself headed off to explore and found the Bomvu backpackers, giving us memories of being students and travelling around with only a backpack and too much time on your hands. We ended up at the White Clay chalets, having a drink with the barman, who showed us the article on the wall and told us the story of a certain KTM rider who was fined R10 000 rand for riding on the beach near Hole in the wall. It seems that the Wild Coast area is clamping down hard on bike riders, so it was a good thing that we were being careful and respecting the areas we rode through. Ocean View Hotel The next morning I realised why Jacques called Jagermeister “Brain Tipp-Ex”, as I could not remember much of the previous evening, and was happy that we managed to get back to the hotel. Wednesday we rode out toward the Anchorage hotel, where we saw photos of the Oceanos that sank off the coast of the Transkei, had a great burger and did more riding through the awesome Coffee Bay area. The only bit of rain on the trip caught us on one of the open sand roads, we quickly put on our rain gear and rode into storm. The storm approaching behind Jacques I was reminded of my caravan holidays as a kid, lying listening to the rain and hail hit the tin roof making a “ting ting” sound as hail thumped onto my helmet for 10 minutes, and then just as quickly as it arrived, the storm blew over. That night we were back at the hotel and in the pub and watched the Springboks thump Namibia, and again Jacques taught us about “Brain Tipp-Ex”… I think… Thursday was Coffee Bay to Mpande where we were staying at the “Kraal” backpackers. We rode through fantastic terrain, and stood watching the Dolphins in Presley bay while we took a break. We were by now all more confident on the bikes and having a great time. We arrived late afternoon in Mpande, after going through Shark Bay. The "Kraal" at Mpande The Kraal is 3 Rondawels with about 6 beds in each, so after we declared the first one the non snoring rondawel, we set about the complex process of showering. You fill the bucket at the top of the stairs with luke warm water, walk down the stairs, and open the tap in the rustic bamboo and wood shower, you close the tap, wash and open the tap to rinse. After 7 days in the saddle it was still a welcome shower. Grant filling the top bucket for the shower That night too many tequila’s, too many Jagermeisters, but 1 fantastic Pizza and we were off to bed. Friday was Mpande to Port St Johns, and after watching the water ferry struggle for almost an hour to get its passengers off the beach we headed off for the final bit of sand on the ride. We hit tar on the Port St Johns Umtata road and headed back toward the Coast. The ride was now all tar and after a magnificent view point looking back to Port St Johns, we headed for lunch at the local pizza place. We checked in to the Outspan Inn and had the best shower in days. Bikes were cleaned for the trip back, refuelled and tires were put back to road pressures. A great night and asleep by 11pm. Jacques cleaning his bike for the trip back Saturday would be Port St Johns to Plett, and the first 90kms would be on fantastic tar road as we headed to Umtata. Getting ready for the road part. Rossi style I chased Geoff and Neil and it felt like I was on my Yamaha R1 again riding through the Eastern Transvaal. The big BMW handled the road surprisingly well as it dialled into every corner perfectly and held the line through each and every corner. I was surprised at how well the knobblies held and the bike turned in like a superbike. We reached Umtata and headed straight onto Cathcart and back along Fort Beaufort toward Grahamstown. I had to say good bye as I was heading to Port Alfred for 2 nights and then onto PE to visit mates.. I shook everyone’s hands and thanked them for an amazing trip and experience that I would cherish forever. You can’t really say thanks in the way that you want to in such a short time, but everyone felt the same as I waved good bye and headed off to Port Alfred. On the way back from PE to Cape Town on the Tuesday, I had 9 hours to think about the trip and what I had experienced on the ride. Geoff thanks for an amazing trip. I am 3rd in line for the next one, right behind Abie and Colin Abie, thanks for the back up vehicle driving and the social Chris, thanks for being such a good room mate and all the help on the trip Alex for the cigarette’s at the “Kraal” and the social Tim for being such a cool Jo’berger and tolerating us Capetonians for 10 days Jane for the great filming Neil for the directing and transport of the film crew and the ride back along the tar Colin for the help and being such a sport even after falling and having to ride in the bakkie for 5 days Wilna for the nursing and sweets Kevin for the memories of Ponta and the all the drinks Paul for the social and help with gathering the herd at the back of the ride And lastly but not least… Jacques for… I can’t remember Special thanks to the ol'ballies for sharing your riding wisdom with us youngsters.... I now have new respect for a BMW 1200 Adventure, but more importantly more respect for the people that ride them and plan the trips. I am not putting Geoff’s cell number (082 807 8130) or his email address (Russell@aroma.co.za) in this as I want to be able to get onto his next trip without too many people knowing about it. Grant Hendriks