Lunch was served somewhere around lunchtime, and after a short siesta, we headed for a booze cruise along the estuary at 15:00. Our captain/guide was full of local knowledge, and only too willing to share it with us. The details of the area which he shared have long gone been forgotten, so you’ll have to go there yourself to find out
We got back about 2 hours later and Ed, Peter, Rynette, and myself challenged each other to a couple of games of sticks seeing as some poor souls had brought a snooker table to this establishment in the middle of nowhere.
Dinner was served and soon after that we all retired for the evening after a long day of R&R… It’s a tough life, but somebody has to do it.
Look! We found a George in his natural habitat
Day 4 Monday, 4 Mar 2019
What a magical morning, waking up to the sun rising up out of the ocean on a crystal-clear day (to think we were worried about rain today, ha!). I made a cuppa and listened to the birds chirping from my rondavel’s porch before going to breakfast at 08:00.
After getting en route, we stuck to a kind of gravel B-road that traverses the ridge of connecting hills, going through hugely sparse villages. The undulating terrain of the area could not possibly allow any worthwhile settlements to be established, so there are very few roads connecting small trading hubs, and everyone has established their house near these roads, with their share of land running down into the valley’s below.
After some indeterminant distance (I was too taken in by the scenery to notice or care about distance or time that day… What a lovely zone to be in). The front runners stopped and we regrouped before hooking a right turn for a few km’s, then pulling over (on the left) on a small airfield. On the other end of the runway, was an infinite cliff of lush grass that ran all the way down to the beach and overlooked Mazzepa Bay, at least 150m below. Geoff claims that you can ride a plastic bike down there, but I don’t think anyone believes him, hahaha! I’ll have to see for myself someday…
It reminded me of the dunes in Peru that dropped off to the beach and used to host a stage in the Dakar Rally, you know, except greener and grassier.
After a short photoshoot, we first continued down the road to a few braai areas overlooking the coast going south, then traversed the ridge going around to the north side of the bay, through all little small holdings and kraals.
After nothing particularly harsh, Peter’s soft luggage tore from its mounting points and came off. Luckily Anthony could stop safely behind him without any incident. I stayed with Peter and used my tow strap to tie down his bag.
Anyway, we nursed it home with Bill checking on us every now and then, and arrived at Kob Inn not long after, at around 14:00, just in time for lunch still. After that we all unpacked and settled in. I am always amazed at how everyone can rendezvous at the bar without prompting, good show everyone!
Wavecrest – Kob Inn
116km
One of many beautiful lookout points
Day 5 Tuesday, 5 Mar 2019
Today’s outride started with a 09:15 pre-ride meeting. We had planned to be out for about 2 hours for a 70km circuit.
I tried to stay up front and ride #2 for the whole ride to follow Geoff’s lines and hopefully learn something. We took the gravel roads at about 70km/h, with the pock-marked grassy sections much slower. The thing with Geoff’s riding is that he doesn’t blitz the straights, but he doesn’t slow down for the corners much either, and if you don’t pay attention, short before long, a gap will open up, and if you’re on a mountain pass, you won’t catch him unless he wants you to.
We headed off inland for a bit before cutting back and riding some grassy terrain. We stopped at this rise just before the coastline so Geoff could instruct us. We were meant to follow his line down to a saddle, then up a steep grassy rise to the lookout point over the Shixini River mouth. Unfortunately, while Geoff was demonstrating where to go, Peter and I were talking nonsense and not paying attention… Oh well, here goes nothing! Ha
On the run up, you must keep that wrist twisted all the way up the hill, even when those hidden grassy humps kick your front wheel to the sky, even when they bounce your rear wheel loose and it starts spinning, and even when you think you should slow down because you’re near the top, because you still haven’t quite made it to the landing pad just yet! When it is finally time to stop, you must stop, and stop quickly! There is zero runoff zones where we ride, hehehe.
At the top of the lookout point, there is not much space at all for a landing, and we had to park quite tightly together. I was dreading a dominos scenario in a spot like this…
Shixini River Mouth
After taking in the scenery for a bit, we rode down, one by one, trying to forget the clutch to avoid the bikes running away from us. Then ran parallel to the beach across grassland and patty fields, looking for a beach landing, which we eventually settled on. But not before Geoff could take us on a journey through some dodgy marsh and tall grassy bits. I enjoyed the hell out of the exploring, even though I had no idea where we were, the simple act of spending time with my bike doing off roady stuffs together.
After that, we made our way back to base. Then had to buy fuel from Dean, the chef, at Kob Inn and filled our bikes up with a drum and funnel.
After a quick shower and lunch, Geoff informed us of a cocktail challenge. Finish all the cocktails, then the group will settle your bar tab! Needless to say, I never back down from a challenge, and now am part of the elite few to have conquered the bar! Hahaha
Kob Inn – Shixini River – Kob Inn
75 km
This is as smart as we'll ever look
Day 6 Wednesday, 6 Mar 2019
We took in the grand scenery of the Xhosa homelands with its fertile green hills spanning for eternity. The ride wasn’t too hectic, but Anthony got another puncture, this time to his front wheel. What rotten luck.
After coming down Mbashe River Pass, we stopped at the Five Kings Bridge so Geoff could find us with the GPS. I won’t lie, I was pretty moeg and could have done with lunch and a frosty beer.
Transkei landscapes
Bill and Alan having a cuppa at the Five Kings Bridge
We finally got going again, and took a gingerly ride for the last section, but we also had to navigate a vicious tar road littered with pot holes.
Once we got back to base, and after settling down, Alan, Nina, and I played pool until dinner where Mama Noma played host for our stay and took care of all our whims in the most gracious way possible.
Kob Inn – Coffee Bay
168km
Ocean View Hotel
Day 7 Thursday,7 Mar 2019
This morning I went for a dip in the ocean, which was surprisingly very cold, so I jumped out soon afterwards feeling much more awake.
We did a short outride this morning, firstly North, to a lookout point of Coffee Bay. Then Geoff pointed out the track to follow along the narrow ridge and up and over a steep rise to the very final lookout with steep drop offs on each side with very little turning around space. I braved that bit by myself while everyone stayed put. Getting to the other side was exhilarating, but sharing the experience with some others would have added to it. The lookout where I found myself felt very isolated being out off the mainland in such a unique way. On the way back, going up the steep rise, I had seen some teenagers park themselves at the top, and I had to pray they would see me coming and get out of my way (did I mention the lack of real estate at the summit?). As I was heading up the hill, I was encouraged by their cheering and one was even recording me on my way to glory… Or maybe he was hoping for a spectacular crash! Hahaha.
Overlooking the Mtata River Mouth
After some photography had been done, we found a way down to the river mouth of the Mthata River for a short break, then we went back and past Ocean View to the Hole in the Wall view point.
Taking a break while contemplating natures beauty... At Hole In The Wall
After the Hole in the Wall, we backtracked to White Clay for lunch… Geez, I was so relaxed after that.
We then went back to Ocean View and had a bit of DIY to do to fix a mysterious rattle on Geoff’s bike (which ended up to simply be the oil cooler guard…How sounds can project themselves). The gardener kindly agreed to water our bikes down and we pumped our tyres up as it seems that our off-road riding is coming to a sad end.
View from White Clay restaurant
You see, Ed sat on Freds bike, and Fred was left with no choice but to defend his honour
I then went for my perfectly timed massage booking before joining the squad for sundowners outside of the bar when a swiss backpacker inserted herself into our group which was quite funny, as everyone was trying (not very covertly) to wingman me! I was determined to find a helmet and take her with me, Hahaha.
Ocean View – Coffee Bay lookout – Hole in the Wall – Ocean View
44km
Day 8 Friday, 8 Mar 2019
At Ocean View. Our steeds ready to take on another day
No George's were harmed while documenting this bike inspection
The days ride started dry for the first 2km or so, from then, it was wet all the way, but on tar at least. We just had to contend with a real dodgy driver that was driving sometimes in the yellow lane, but always up our tailpipes and maintaining our same speed.
Today’s route took us inland bound to take a sho’t left on the N2 and run all the way to about 20 km before East London, and head for Cintsa and the beautiful destination of Crawfords Beach lodge. We took it real easy due to the road conditions, and time was ticking, so after the Kei Cuttings pass, we pulled over at a fuel station, and had a burger and chips at the Steers for lunch. From there it was about 40 minutes to Crawfords.
Geoff had to call ahead to make sure the steep driveway entrance was clear. Once you’re rolling down, it becomes real tough to get a solid footing if you were to stop for traffic, so he had to get the hotel staff to block any traffic for us to get down safely. The hotel, acknowledging this particular challenge, is more than happy to oblige us this small courtesy.
Coffee Bay – Cintsa
265km
Crawfords beach lodge
Day 9 Saturday, 9 Mar 2019
Another off day today.
I could not read my book or stay in bed any longer, even if I tried. The weather was miserable outside, so everyone had gone into hiding. During lunch with everyone, the weather started clearing up, so afterwards, I went for a lekka stroll on the beach for about an hour or so, and as I was about 20m from the boardwalk path back to Crawfords, the heavens opened up again to signal us back inside.
Loft cabin at Crawfords
I went for another nap, and came down to the pub at 17:00 for some beers, and Nina wanted a pool rematch. Once we had gathered a crowd, I opened my winning bottle of wine that I won at the pool tournament held last night and we had a jolly time together until I later found out that the ladies had formed an alliance and had been cheating quite blatantly during my last game with Anni. Apparently, everyone knew except for me, but I was in a far too jolly a mood to care! Haha
Once dinner time came, I pounced and ate rather quickly and not very sociably because the MotoGP Qatar Qualifying was airing upstairs, and the anticipation for the 2019 season has been palpable to say the least. Back in the main dining room/lounge, the nights entertainment of live music was a nostalgic collection of olden goldies, and everyone had a superb time of the evening.
Crawfords Beach lodge
0km
Crawfords, Cintsa