Archive of BMW Motorrad Club Cape (2006 - 2019)

As it became increasingly clear that NZ immigration was not likely to accept our application without our having gone to see the place first, we have been re-stoking our dream of building accommodation on our farm above aurora.

Thus hatched the idea of a bike trip that would overnight at eco-friendly alternative places as part of our search for ideas and techniques to use on the farm. We would also visit Julie's parents in Port Alfred.

Equipment

• Camera
• Autocom rider/pillion communications system with MP3 player and phone connection (so the boss can tell me what to do),
• Cellphone with GPS and Google Maps in case we got lost (but it doesn't work outside of cell reception so it is not a cureall)
• Tankbag (borrowed from GregOnGS) to hold the boss's handbag, the MP3 player, and map pages,
• Tail bag and panniers
• Pump (in case of punctures)
• Bike Toolkit and puncture kit
• Camelback (for drinking and finding punctures if necessary)
• Rain gear
• Torch and knife
• Towing straps (thanks Neil)

Thursday 1st October

Julie had been working frantically to provide stock for her customers during the 11 days we would be away. Thursday morning was her birthday - we got up fairly early, packed our things and departed at our leisure. Breakfast on Du Toit's pass at the Du Toit's Kloof Lodge. Took the usual Worcester, Robertson, Ashton, Montagu route to the R62. We filled up in Ashton, and met an acquaintance of Cheesy - Bob from Ulysses on his way to the Dolphin in Graaff Reinett. He suggested we pull in to the Karoo Saloon just before Barrydale - which we did. Nice spot and nice people - on hearing it was Julie's birthday, Bob chipped in some money towards a funky multicoloured wig that Julie had tried on and had decided to shock her mother with. In Barrydale we avoided the Country Pumpkin - purely because we were on an exploratory mission and wanted to try something new. We went to the blue cow on the Barrydale waterfront. Barrydale Waterfront: Wendyhouse by a pond The food was great, and I got my first eco-logical idea when I went to the loo. Out one end: and in the other The french drain is just uphill of the vegetable garden, ensuring fecund moist soil for the vegetables all year round. Inside the Blue Cow: blissfully unaware of the organic decay just outside After lunch we set off north-east along the R62, and turned off at Lemoenshoek to take a dirt back-road to Bonniedale farm. I had ridden this road before but didn't know it. No change in tyre pressures since the road is easy - I didn't even stop to turn off the ABS.

Dirt at Last

Brandrivier, Grootwaterval, across the Gourits at 'Die Poort' and just before Cloetes pass I ''gooi a u-ey'' to go back to a sign that I thought had the word 'Bonniedale' on it. I recognize the spot where Andy and I had explored the tractor in a shed while waiting for JR's group to arrive after the last time I had been to Bonniedale. This was where the hectic, washed-away 4x4 route from the back of Bonniedale came out. Since it was getting a bit late in the day, and I was uncertain of exactly how to find the front entrance to Bonniedale anyway, we decided to take the back way in.

Real Dirt

I did not tell Julie that this was a difficult route, since fear is often groundless anyway. But I did turn off the ABS at one gate, and drop tyre pressures at another. The road is much improved from the dongas we negotiated with JR. But, there are steep ascents and descents on big round stones and gravel. We had no problems, but the owners later told us that many bikes go down on the stones.

Bonniedale Farm

Our arrival was greeted by indigenous chickens. They are very rare and were brought in because they actually fly up onto the horses to eat the ticks off them! Chicken welcome Apparently the chickens had come to the homestead because it was bedtime for them, and when the owner appeared they promptly walked off with her to be put back in the coup.

The Tented Camp

Our tent We got braai packs from the main house and Julie lay down a while while I cooked supper. The tent had a concrete floor and a very comfortable bed with paraffin lanterns and bedside tables etc. By 7-30 we were in bed with full stomachs and a satisfying exhaustion. We awoke to cows walking past, and got up to test the ablutions. Ah, hot water Yes, they were working. Just as we were about to leave, we heard ''animal'' outside and thought the cows must have come walking past. When we opened the door, we were greeted by...

Vraat!

Vraat is her name Every morning Vraat does the rounds of all the camp sites to find any scraps. And every visitor that arrives gets the royal treatment in the hope of something to eat. Charles gets the royal treatment

Friday 2nd Oct

By 7h30 we were on the road again, headed for 'Eight Bells' for breakfast. The road was being graded and was supposedly loose. The only excitement was passing the grader and hitting the wall of gravel it produced at an acute angle. Leaving Bonniedale Now we are on a forestry road, and at one point had to stop while they cleared a tree from across the road where they were felling. Excuse me please... At 'Eight Bells' we meet a chap on an R1100S who had been to a rally the weekend before, but got a lift home due to the rain, and was now riding his bike back to Cape Town.

Uniondale

We rode up the R328 through the Robinson pass and on to Oudtshoorn, then angled right towards De Rust (where my mother grew up). Julie had a headache, so we stopped for a break at the tourist info centre and she took some tablets with water. We were eager to take a fairly short route to Uniondale as Julie was not feeling that well. I took the R341 out of De Rust towards Willowmore, then turned off left towards Vlakteplaas onto a dirt road. Julie and I enjoyed a wonderful ride through farmlands along the Olifants river and had a very scenic ride through koppies towards Uniondale. In the town we stopped for lunch at an interesting looking cafe that had decor that set my gaydar beeping furiously - it started when the motherboards worked into abstract art seen here on the wall behind me set off my nerd-alert. Then I looked inside and saw eclectic arrangements of art, religious icons, furniture and jewellery that would have had Top Billing presenters tongue-tied in a tizz. Uniondale Cafe We met two women riding a hog and F800ST who were on their way to the Dolphin. What a Bar!: The bar had a jukebox and model aeroplanes and (Michael Mole voice: an eclectic mix of antique and retro furniture and fittings). After lunch we filled up and headed out on the last leg of the day...

Into Baviaanskloof

We were in good time and took it easy. The ride is spectacular as you pass through a poort. Poort Julie and I was raving with every corner we rounded as spectacular scenery unfolded before us.

Rietrivier - Makkedaat Caves

Soon we reached the stop for the night. Henrietta was there to greet us and show us around, as were her adorable puppies. Rietrivier and Henrietta Cross Jack Russell and an opportunist Family We were already enthralled by the ostrich chicks, which we passed on the way up to our allotted cave: '''Dassiebak'''. Makkedaat Caves: Dassiebak '''''When we arrived at the little badger garage, I was so happy for Mr.Badger's sake that I completely forgot we were still standing as we came to a stop. Suddenly, we were toppling over. Julie managed to get her leg down and hold us up until I could recover. This was our only incident (except for the wet boots tomorrow.''''' That was the last time Julie was able to curse at me via the autocom - the next morning her blue language had caused it to break. The cave blew us away - it is so cleverly designed, so comfortable and so adaptible. We rolled up one sidewall and relaxed with sundowners enjoying the view. Sundowners: se voet - we spent a good 45 minutes trying to get the camera timer to work and posing for the shot Bed with a view Later, Henriette brought us fresh bread and told us about the sunbird that had built its nest right outside the back door. It sat with its head out the opening and would fly away every time we walked out to the outside bathroom. Sunbird nursery Supper was tea and hot fresh bread with stolen butter and jam from breakfast. We were in bed at 7-30 again.

Saturday 3rd October

The big day. We had been told all sorts of stories about the impassability or not of the passes at the end of the Baviaanskloof. We were nervous. When Julie got on the bike and plugged in her helmet, a loud screeching from the autocom made her unplug it immediately. We thought it might be her plug, so I took out my knife and bent the skew-looking pin straight - no difference other than my leaving the knife on the pannier and losing it when we left. On the road in Baviaans We rode on, unable to communicate. It's amazing how once you try something you never had before, you cannot easily go back. And today we needed to talk - dammit! Once we got home Kobus Raath fixed the problem in a jiffy - the seat had nicked the pillion wire slightly.

4 bikers

Some way on, we met 4 bikes coming the other way. They were from Piketberg and we quizzed them about the passes. When I asked the front guy whether we would be able to make it, he spent some time looking at Mr.Badger before he answered. Two of his party (including a lady rider) had had no training and had made it. We would have no problem. Julie was visibly relieved.  I was invisibly so. He explained at length how to cross the two long deep crossings that lay ahead of us. Suggested we walk through first. I wonder who they were - a 1200GSA with a lady pillion, a 650GS single with a lady rider, an 1150GSA, and another bike I don't remember what?

Beware the Wild Animals

Nature Reserve Gate While signing in at the gate, I fiddled some more with the Autocom but only to it to the point where I could talk to Julie but she could not talk to me. Also, we could have music. Julie enquired about the dangerous animals. One black rhino that had never been seen on the road, and water buffalo. Nobody had explained what we should do if we saw either of these, and all I knew how to do was an elephant turn. A 'wild' animal Luckily, we were soon so distracted by the obstacles the road threw at us that thoughts of wild animals were completely forgotten.

Water in the boots

Finally, we reached Smitskraal where the water crossings loomed. I asked Julie whether we should stop and scout or just go. Just Go "Just go". My sentiments exactly - stopping means hesitating, and hesitating means falling anyway. And walking through means getting your feet wet... So we stand up and go. It's the stony crossing. Strangely (or stupidly) I stall Mr.Badger about 3 metres in. Sit down quickly to prevent a fall, start the bike, and then take off again. Damn - my boots are wet. We don't stop for pictures so don't expect any. We ride through to the cement causeway and cross that too. The water is quite deep, but then Mr.Badger is an 1150GS and knows how to swim. With the water behind us, I find a sunny spot at the top of a rise to empty my boots and put on dry socks. Hrrmph!: did I mention I hate getting my feet wet...

Holgat Pass

Soon, we are on the Holgat Pass. Signs warn that this is a dangerous mountain pass for 4x4 only. Not to stress Julie unduly, I make light of it and press on without pause. We end up having to stop and wait for a Landrover towing a trailer so big I mistake it for another Landy. After the third such stop and wait and pull-away on a slope our clutch is stinking a bit. The driver pulls over slightly and waves us through and there is no time to wave thanks - we just shout thanks into our helmets.

Mr.Badger gets Wild

The water crossing must have wet something in Mr.Badger's throttle sensor. If you keep a steady throttle he gradually loses interest and just about comes to a halt. But if you move the throttle ever so slightly, Mr.Badger takes off like a wild animal. A few times in critical sections, Mr.Badger took the wildness of his surrounds to heart and leapt over the rocks. Eventually, I took to gunning him with clutch in to curb his enthusiasm a bit. The relentless uphill of the pass, with high cost of failure if you go over the edge, had us focussed as a team. None of it was difficult, and anybody who has been to klipbokkop should be able to handle it. '''''Julie was exhilirated by the thrill of tackling each obstacle.''''' At times I rode right next to the cliff edge because that was the better line, and other times I rode near the mountain because it felt safer. The Heidenaus really performed well, with not a single slip out or fright. I rode great lines as a result of all the experience I have gained from riding with Geoff and all the training I have done. We stood the whole way up and did not pause until we reached the top.

Combrink's Pass

At the top we stopped for a break and to admire the fynbos around us. I pitied the Landrover coming up and the two vehicles that were going down, because somebody was going to be reversing on that tiny road. Eventually we started going down. Long and steep. Julie's legs gave up and she had to sit from time to time. I thanked Leon and Lourens for the skills they taught me. The road was a white clay and I felt as though I was going to go snow-blind with the glare. Only when we reached a place labeled 'Poortjies' at the bottom did I realize we had just descended Combrink's Pass.

Ons het die Baviaans gewen

Ons het die Baviaans gewen! At a shady river-crossing I stopped for a little break to celebrate our success. This was our first solo trip and we were now truly bikers. We both retorted that ''ons het die Baviaans gewen'' - after an older couple who had said ''ons het die Bloukrans gewen'' when we did the Otter Trail and had to cross the Bloukrans river at spring high tide.

To Port Alfred

Lunch and a beer in Patensie, then on along the Gamtoos River valley to the N2, through PE and along the R72 to Port Alfred. What a splendid trip. We will be returning via a different route staying in '''a treehouse and a bungalow'''.