Archive of BMW Motorrad Club Cape (2006 - 2019)

http://bmwmotorcycleclubcape.co.za/eastern-cape-road-tour-march-2012-pics

BMW Club Eastern Cape Road Tour March 2012.

First a quick bio of self to give context to the trip report:

I have been in Cape Town since April 2009, by way of Dallas, Texas. I work for a start-up automotive company, designing electric vehicles. I lead a group of engineers designing and testing the propulsion system (electric motor, battery and control software, etc.) for the Joule electric vehicle.

I became a proud owner of an Adventure, Christmas 2010. Some of my riding has been on gravel with a few breakfast runs with the club. So, I am quite the newbie with aspirations of attaining skills to match my bike’s capabilities. My other riding experience is commuting on my K*R on M3 from the southern suburbs.

This was my first extended overnight trip with the club, ever. So I bring a different perspective to this trip report then you would normally expect. Prior to the ride, I was clueless, regarding the routes. I did a lot of reading, post trip, from the Captain’s copious e-mails, as a basis for this report.

Up until this trip, my experience of SA roads was limited to a few car trips on N2 to PE & N1 to JNB.

For me, that was the neat thing about this bike ride, I did not have to worry about where I was going, how I was going to get there, no worries about food, fuel or emergency support, in route. Just knowing that at the end of the day, I could look forward to world-class food and amenities, and all I had to do was to keep up, not irritate with my riding style, or do something stupid. I made it, so enough said.

So on with the trip report…..

The 22 strong contingent of riders on 20 BMW’s were:

Group GSA

1. Captain (also known as Geoff Russell, aka GR)
2. Deon Sachs
3. Junaid Salam

Group GS

4. Adrian Lee
5. Chris Dunn
6. Trevor Versveld
7. Bruno Letarte
8. Lyn Nicol
9. Noelene Russell
10. Sian Versveld
11. Mike Voges
12. Geoffrey kite
13. Trevor King

Group RT

14. François / Eileen van der Westhuizen
15. Johan / Dulcie van der Westhuizen
16. Belinda Dunn
17. Mike Shield
18. John Gillespie
19. Keith Millington

Group GT

20. Henri Basson

I hope I got this right. No offense, for any unintentionals!

The Trip

Day 1: Saturday, 10^th March 2012

Time: 06h45

Destination: Tsitsikamma Lodge in Eastern Cape

We all got together at the N2 Engen for light breakfast and refreshments. The riders, familiar faces all, thanks to the Captain, for having the team over to his house, the previous Tuesday, to “break the ice.”

Trevor K had an incident with his helmet and had to detour for some repair & replacement. 

We finally got on the road, which took us to Somerset West, then straight to our first ‘pit’ stop at Riviersonderend.

After a short break we proceeded along N2 to our first fuel stop at Buffeljagsrivier.

After refueling we tackled our third pass of the trip, the very well known Tradouw pass that has recently been resurfaced. We stopped in the Pass at one of the “lay bys” to admire the view of the kloof and river below.

GR moment:

The Captain said to get behind him, thru the passes and learn by watching his line. Well, guess what? I jockeyed myself behind him and looked down to watch his line, next thing I look up, the Captain has disappeared around the bend and over the horizon. Well, I looked back down and guess what? No line!

I then had to get out of the way, quickly, as the rest of the gang zipped by!

At Barrydale, Trevor K caught up to us, then via Calitzdorp to Oudtshoorn then to George for a fuel stop.

A nice easy ride through to Plettenburg Bay and onto the lovely Groot Rivier Pass, down into Natures Valley stopping at the Groot Rivier to stretch our legs and take some pictures.

GR moment:

Said to watch him at all stops. The moment he puts on his helmet, we got 15 seconds to go,no lie!

Needless to say, after a few close calls, I quietly sweated in my helmet during intermediate stops. Totally intimidated!

We then rode up the other side of the Pass over N2 and onto the Bloukrans Pass which is still “officially” closed to traffic. This was one enjoyable section with no traffic (well, 1 car coming the opposite way) and plenty of twisties.

From the pass it was a short ride to our overnight stay at the lovely Tsitsikamma Hotel where the friendly staff awaited us with refreshments on arrival.

For our first dinner together, we all smartly turned out in our baby blue golf shirts, marking the trip, with embroidered name tags.

A trip tradition: people who transgressed any “rules” as laid down by the Captain, were “straffdopped” for their misdeeds. The first night of the trip was no exception with amongst others, Lyn, Bruno and Mike S being “straffed” for numerous reasons. It was all in good fun and I wish I had kept notes on the ‘violations’.

Day 2: Sunday, 11^th March 2012

Time: 09h00

Destination: Halyards Hotel, Port Alfred

We got on the road that took us up to Kareedow on the R62 then down to Humansdorp bypassing Jeffreys Bay, along the old N2 to the Van Stadens River Bridge where we stopped for a Kodak moment.

Crossing N2 we headed for Uitenhage and a detour around Port Elizabeth. From here it was a short stretch to our lunch stop.

After lunch we headed for Port Alfred with some very heavy rainclouds threatening us in the distance.

We stopped and refueled in Alexandria and the roads were already wet. The pitch black rainclouds were heading our way and moving fast towards us. As we were leaving a little town,  the Captain made a call to don our rain suits and as we started the rain came pouring down.

GR moment:

 We stopped in the middle of nowhere and suddenly the Captain started doing what looked to me like a rooster courtship dance, arms held high and wide, head held low, strutting and a lot of wiggling and flapping. His way of signaling for rain suits.

We rode all the way to Port Alfred in the rain.

On our arrival at the Halyards Hotel we checked in and freshened up before all going on a lovely River Cruise up the Kowie River. The rain let up some.

After dinner and the mandatory “strafdoppe” most of us ducked off early to get a good nights rest. The die hards kept the club name high as they chatted long into the night sorting out the world’s problems. Finally, I heard them tromping up the stairs, to their rooms, in the proscribed “stagger” formation. The Captain would have been proud.

Day3: Monday, 12^th March 2012

Time: 09h00

Destination: Crawford Cabins, Cintsa

Route: Towards Grahamstown, Fort Beaufort, King Williams Town, R63, N6, Maclean Town, Outside East London, Cintsa (Chintsa), 335km

The ride now headed away from the coast, inland into the rural Eastern Cape and to Fort Hare University. Our detour inland brought us out onto N2 just before King Williams Town, where we stopped for a picnic style lunch on an open area next to a petrol garage.

From here we headed north of our destination along some lesser known roads before emerging onto the N2 and heading back towards East London before turning off to Cintsa and Crawford’s Cabins.

The night before, the ride veterans frightened the newbies, talking about the approach to Crawford’s Cabins. A lot of advice, as to not stop at the top of the hill before the steep drop, extreme camber and then a quick turn to the left.

Since the plan was to spend two nights, lots of anxious questions about the techniques and number of times we have to traverse this route.

I had plenty of time to think up dire possibilities before we arrived at the cabins. We made it, with no drama, (well ok! a few chickened out and choose to walk down from the top and had their bike’s delivered).  What a let down!

Only fun was to see a Vito with a trailer trying to get out. Finally, succeeded after multiple attempts, a lot of wheel spinning, rubber burning, and prompts from the Captain.

Day 4: Tuesday, 13^th March 2012

The day was officially a rest day, but the Captain had other ideas. It seems like, to him, rest days do not mean not riding.

So off we went for lunch at Kei mouth and the famous/infamous Bush Pig Bush Pub.

Along the way, coming around a bend, a most spectacular sight. A white (was it pink??)  DC8 jet liner in its full glory, close to the road, in the middle of an overgrown field of grass. Most unexpected!

At a petrol stop, our hawk eyed Captain, picked up on Bruno’s low rear tire as a flat. The Captain and Mike V promptly went into action, whipping out all the tools just for this eventuality.

GR moment:

Crowd of us, watched the Captain & Mike V replace the pinched tube from Bruno’s deflated rear. Man does not mind getting his hands dirty. Insult to injury, also had to remount the tire, rotating the right way.

Our lunch at the Bush Pig Pub did not work out as planned, when we got there the owner was still asleep!!!!!!!!!

With no lunch in sight some of the group returned to Crawford’s Cabins while other waited for the Pub owner to get up and serve us a few refreshments and some potato crisps for “lunch”!

After “lunch” we headed straight back to Crawford’s for a relaxing afternoon.

Some of us went for walks on the beach, others swam, some checked their bikes over but all in all it was a very relaxing afternoon.

Day5: Wednesday, 14^th March 2012

Time: 09h00

Destination: Umngazi River Bungalows

Route: N2 to Mtata, Port St Johns, Umngazi, 300km.

With our sights set on Umngazi, we dragged ourselves away from Crawford’s Cabins and headed for N2. The Captain had warned us about the road ahead and to especially watch out for taxi’s, cattle, goats, sheep, pigs, dogs, and people. In fact just WATCH OUT, period!!

Our passage through the Transkei via Butterworth, Dutwa and Mtata was very sedate and we came upon a big truck accident that must have just occurred. Looked like the load shifted on the bends, or something, nasty. We filled up in Mtata and headed off towards Port St Johns avoiding all the aforementioned hazards along the way including lots of roadworks.

The road & the passes to Umngazi were glorious. What a fantastic weekend breakfast run this leg would make. Understand our EL & Durban based club members do get out here on weekends. Lucky blighters!

Just before Port St Johns we turned off to the right along a very narrow tar road heading towards Umngazi River Bungalows. The area had had lots of rain just prior to our arrival and in places the mud had washed into and across the road. I felt very superior, standing up on my ADV, as we crossed these small obstacles. Felt a bit sorry for the road bikes, but all made it through safe.

GR moment:

Following the Captain, and turning one corner, I encountered a big bull with really long horns, pointing right at me, right in the middle of the track!

It is amazing how quickly you can switch from a left lean to a right lean and still stay on a turning track. When I got my composure back, I looked up to see the Captain’s bike wiggle or was it a giggle!

We arrived at Umngazi just in time for a fantastic sit down lunch! Perfect timing. The place was packed with holiday makers and their preschool kids.

Day 6: Thursday, 15^th March 2012

Today was a real rest day…..yes can you believe it we managed to keep the Captain off his bike for one entire day.

We really relaxed and what better place to do it than at the world class Umngazi River Bungalows.

The group took it easy, some went walking, other took pictures, some went on canoes other slept, some swam, tanned, lay in hammocks or just did nothing.

Hey, I forgot about the fantastic spa with an unforgettable view, overlooking the whole area. I indulged myself, as other riders did the same. Afterwards, I felt great and at peace with the world.

GR moment:

While walking up to the spa, I spotted Deon astride his ADV, leaning back, keeping the front fork in the air, tire gone. The Captain and Mike V had taken Deon’s tire for remounting/balancing and turning the right way. Another GS needed the same treatment to its tire. This was three in a row!

The Captain wisely, decided to stop checking the rest of the fleet and creating more work for himself. Our Captain, he is no fool.

I would have loved to have eavesdropped, on the subsequent phone conversation the Captain had with the dealership responsible for the poor workmanship.

At dusk, the long awaited Umngazi River boat evening cruise took place. What a wonderful cruise we had. We were in awe watching two Fish Eagles swoop down onto the river right next to the boat to pick fish out of the water, wow!

After another great dinner the group slid off to bed to pack for tomorrows ride to Elliott and the Mountain Shadows Hotel.

Day 7: Friday, 16th March 2012

Time: 10h00

Destination: Mountain Shadows Hotel outside Elliot

Like Crawford’s Cabins I don’t think anyone wanted to leave Umngazi but onwards and upwards we have to go.

Some of the group appeared a little apprehensive at the prospect of tackling the narrow little road out of Umngazi but all made it without incident.

Our route took us back to the mad house that is Mtata where the group refueled before heading off towards Ugie and the prospect of riding the fantastic road that is believed to be the most expensive ever built in RSA. A real biker Heaven according to the Captain.

We were not disappointed, the road is lovely and wide with lots of run off areas that had many of us wanting to ride it over and over. At the top we stopped at the view site while the heavens grew darker and darker with the distinct smell of rain in the air.

The rest of the road to Ugie was wonderful with lots of long sweeping bends with the riders loving the conditions and the joy of riding these beautiful machines.

We had a few spots of rain as we neared Ugie and towards Elliot the sky was pitch black.

17kms outside Elliot the rain came pouring down and we stopped to don our rain suits again.

I needed to stop in Elliot as my headlight bulb had died. So we all stopped outside the spares shop looking like drowned rats. (I dodged a strafdop for that one!).

New bulb purchased it was off towards the Barkley Pass, but we were not going to enjoy it much in the thick mist and soft rain. As we crested the pass the sun came out just in time to welcome us at our Hotel.

Bikes parked, unloaded and all checked in most people showered took a nap and met in the Bar area to watch Rugby.

Later a lovely home made meal was served with a really nice soup to follow our little seafood starter. A superb meal!

The normal round of strafdoppe was handed out, but Chris Dunn had a surprise waiting for the Captain. As soon as he sat down for dinner Chris  arrived with a tray full of shooter glasses.  Our ‘hapless’ Captain was “straffed” for all kinds of misdemeanor that one can imagine. From ant’s on his bike, going thru M’kaka, twice, goodness knows what else. He could not even appeal for mercy as each time he opened his mouth, there was another “dop” waiting. I feared for his ability to get up and walk back to his room!!!!!

However in true fearless GR style he took it like a man (although by this stage looking a bit green) and still enjoyed dinner with us as well as a few drinks in the pub afterwards.

Day 8: Saturday, 17^th March 2012

Time: 07h30

Destination: Camdeboo Cottages, Graaf Reinet

Route: Barkly Pass, Cala Pass, Cala, Nonesis Neck Pass, Queenstown, R61 through Wapadsberg Pass, N9 to Graaf Reinet, 430kms.

Our second last day dawned lovely and fresh with a wonderful view of the surrounding mountains.

After a lovely breakfast we headed down the Barkley Pass back to Elliot and pointed our bikes in the direction of Graaf Reinet.

Along the way we enjoyed the lovely mountain passes as the sky threatened us with rain again.

We stopped in Queenstown to refuel and snack and then again about 60kms from hotel, to stretch our legs.

The leg from Queenstown to Graaf Reinet had quite a few of the smaller bikes praying that they reach our destination with some of the guys reserve lights coming on 40kms before we got there.

On arrival we checked in refueled and some of us made a side trip to view the beautiful Valley of Desolation, just outside Graaf Reinet.

It was then back to Camdeboo Cottages in time to freshen up for the evenings formalities.

Tonight we all met Withond (WitBlitz) and Chantelle our hostess told us the story of how Withond evolved and that in order to get your desert you have to first drink a shot. Fortunately I do not drink so was spared the “pain” however I was not left out having to drink a “shooter” of lime juice.

Then we all got ‘straffed” . We all had a complimentary “shot” as a gesture of thanks from our Captain for a wonderful trip…………………

For the first time I was “straffed” on the trip having to down a shooter glass of lime juice and Tabasco for hitting a stop sign while entering the national park, with my pannier.

The next day was an early start so we were all in bed early.

Day9: Sunday, 18^th March 2012

Time: 07h30

Destination: Home

Many of us were up way before breakfast busy packing and getting ready. The Captain had warned us that today was going to be a long fast ride home  (about 140k average) and that we would not be stopping for lunch on route. We would have to fuel our bikes and faces simultaneously.

With the group re-arranged per the Captain’s direction, we were out of Graaf Reinet and on the main highway before 07h15 with our first stop for fuel being Willowmore. As we got closer to the little town we started getting more and more oncoming bikes on their way home from the Buffalo Rally in Mossel Bay.

An unfortunate incident occurred while refueling when Trevor K somehow covered himself in fuel while refilling his bike. He and the bike were literally covered in fuel that squirted from his tank. Shew, this could have been a very bad situation.

GR moment:

On the home run, the leader kept up a good pace. Good thing too, as we hit a lot of stop&go road construction sites. At one such stop, we had our first and only road rage incident of the trip.

 A 4tuna driver foolishly jumped out of his vehicle and confronted the leader, with a lot of yelling and arm waving.

Fortunately, our leader, anticipating, just this type of incident, had surrounded himself with a phalanx of his biker chicks, who stared him down.

Needless to say, the guy gave up and drove away, helped along with a lot of hooting & honking  from the bikes

Our next stop was Oudtshoorn for fuel and here we ran into lots of other bikes from the Buff.

Refueled and fed we headed for our last fuel stop in Montagu arriving here at about 13h30.

 

It was here that we all said our goodbyes at the end of a great BMW Club Tour.

Deon and I split away and I chased him all the way to the southern suburbs and home. I pulled into my garage at exactly 15h30. What a trip!

Parting thoughts…

In the forum, much has been written about the time, effort and labor of organizing and running these trips.

It is all you, Captain, for pulling this off, repeatedly. My helmet is off to you Sir!

But we all know the true labor of love is from the Chief Mate, without whose support, none of this, would be possible.

  

On the shoulders of: Thanks Noelene!

It was also quite fascinating, to see over the course of the trip, personalities and styles emerge, and soon, you could easily tell between the rooming Mikes , the bros, Sir-brakes-a-lot from Sir-talks-a-lot.

• I luv’d the roads, and the ride….
• I luv’d the countryside and towns (including Umkaka!)…
• I luv’d the food and the desserts…
• I luv’d the people we met…
• I enjoyed the boat rides and my fellow riders, I think I made some friends
• I learnt a lot and improved my riding….
• I was impressed with ladies skills (speed, handling), pillion endurance (nine days between the lug and the luggage – squeezed on to an ipad of a seat) and courage (using public bathrooms). I only aspire to emulate the skills part.
• I thank the Captain for his efficiency, thoughtful consideration and help with this report
• Most of all, I luv SA and consider myself proudly South African!

So, until we meet on the next ride, remember men are from Mars, women are from Venus and that 4tuna driver was from Uranus..…

 

Junaid Salam