Daantjie’s Karoo overnight trip to Merweville

Annie's picture
Our Group: ''1 x 1200GSA'' Ben & Sandra Saaiman [http://www.bmwmotorcycleclubcape.co.za/user/benna Benna] ''1 x 1200GS'' Steve Thomas [http://www.bmwmotorcycleclubcape.co.za/user/stevet Stevet] ''2 x 1150GSA'' Daantjie & Anel Taljaard [http://www.bmwmotorcycleclubcape.co.za/user/daantjie Daantjie] Andy Connell [http://www.bmwmotorcycleclubcape.co.za/user/andyman Andyman] ''2 x 1150GS'' Charles Oertel on the Badger [http://www.bmwmotorcycleclubcape.co.za/user/charles Charles] Brendan Buurman [http://www.bmwmotorcycleclubcape.co.za/user/Brendan Brendan] ''1 x F650GS'' Anne Connell [http://www.bmwmotorcycleclubcape.co.za/user/annie Annie] The trip was 'unorganized' by Daantjie Taljaard with 'no backup vehicle'. All to carry own homesteads and own food. Our Google RouteOur Google Route Andy & I met up with Brendan, Charles and Steve at the Winelands Engen at 7am, then headed on for Paarl to meet up with Ben and Sandra. We stopped and waited there for a while and then, when they arrived, we took the Old DuToitskloof Pass to Worcester, with the wind buffeting us around. Waiting for Ben & Sandra in the shade of Du Toitskloof old passWaiting for Ben & Sandra in the shade of Du Toitskloof old pass Ben & Sandra arrive on their new bikeBen & Sandra arrive on their new bike In Worcester we met up with Daantjie and Anel. Worcester Shell 1-stop was overcrowded with holiday makers. Most of us topped up with fuel here. Shell 1 stop Long stopShell 1 stop Long stop We wasted a little time waiting for Charles' breakfast pita and wondering whether the 1200GSA stopped by a cop just opposite was planning to be part of our group. It turned out he was not (he had been stopped because he had an odd customized numberplate "MC de Monago" decorated with stickers - probably not the type to rough it in the Karoo anyway). So we got away a little late and breakfasted in Montague, where �ndjilien served us a hearty Route 62 and Route 66 breakfast. However, this place was also overcrowded, and so quite a bit of time was wasted here as well, be it very pleasantly! Daantjie and Anel en route to MontagueDaantjie and Anel en route to Montague Easter Traffic gave us a few hairy momentsEaster Traffic gave us a few hairy moments We decided to deflate and switch off ABS outside the shop, as the dirt road turnoff was quite close. By now we were peeling off our extra early morning layers. And off we went, following Daantjie to the Ouberg Pass turnoff - left about 5kms outside Montague. A short while later we took another left turn onto our 1st dirt. Sign at the top of Ouberg passSign at the top of Ouberg pass We traversed the beautiful, winding and dusty Ouberg pass for many kms, stopping a few times to regroup. "Turning" onto the dirt"Turning" onto the dirt Ben & SandraBen & Sandra Steve does his stuff in the dustSteve does his stuff in the dust Valleys belowValleys below Closer to Ladismith we stopped under some trees to rest, and took a group photo outside the ruin of an old homestead. How to set up for a group photoHow to set up for a group photo Getting ready for the cameraGetting ready for the camera Photo finish with Anel driving the carPhoto finish with Anel driving the car Everything is dry Karoo, with green valleys running along some of the mountains. Deserted homesteads aplenty. Dry waterfalls telling many stories of flash floods... Waterfalls telling stories of yesteryearWaterfalls telling stories of yesteryear Apparently one can only find the rare plants Olifantsvoet and Sterboom in this area. Old waterpump still in use: With a disused electric pump in working order in the background..Old waterpump still in use: With a disused electric pump in working order in the background.. Steve is having a good timeSteve is having a good time BennaBenna Charles shoots Andy in action: They were the sweepers but were actually "practising" a few stuntsCharles shoots Andy in action: They were the sweepers but were actually "practising" a few stunts Charles on the Badger: They passed the camera back and forth doing over 120kms/hrCharles on the Badger: They passed the camera back and forth doing over 120kms/hr Some stopped to top up fuel in Ladismith, traveling further towards Calitzdorp by tar, turning left onto the start of the Seweweekspoort pass. Daantjie is also happy: Beginning of Seweweekspoort passDaantjie is also happy: Beginning of Seweweekspoort pass There was a lot of holiday traffic on the tar and quite a bit on the dirt as well. We traveled carefully (the car traffic was not so careful) up the winding 17km pass, admiring the awesome beauty. One crosses the same stream 23 times. Seweweekspoort backdropSeweweekspoort backdrop We stopped to have lunch in a ruin, which turned out to be an old toll house. Lunch in styleLunch in style Andy & Steve refill their Camelbaks in the stream nearbyAndy & Steve refill their Camelbaks in the stream nearby According to historical reports, during 1859 the authorities decided to build a pass through the Poort. The initial work was done by a team of convicts, without the presence of a road-engineer. Progress was slow and in 1860 AF de Smidt, brother-in-law of the renowned pass-builder, Thomas Bains, took charge of the operations. The road was completed in 1862. There are several stories explaining the origin of the name: 1. It took 7 weeks for mounted troops to escort a gang of highway robbers, being banished from Barrydale, through the Poort; 2. It took 7 weeks for the authorities to catch a stock-thief who fled into the mountains; 3. It took 7 weeks for a gang of brandy smugglers to return through the Poort from Beaufort West. 4. The most likely explanation is that the Poort was named after a missionary from Amalienstein, Reverend Zerwick. The local population could not pronounce his name and called it 'Seweweekspoort'. The ruins of the original toll-house where we lunched, can be seen on the northern entrance to the Poort. According to tradition, the ghost of one of the first toll-gate keepers can be seen on dark, stormy nights, when he appears with his lantern, stopping motorists. As soon as they stop, he disappears with his lantern... After lunch we continued to Lainsburg, where our bikes soaked up some fuel. There we bumped into Bok van Blerk of DelaReyDelaRey fame, towing a wounded 1200GSA. We were too tired to chat to the gentleman and ask his story. Road to LainsburgRoad to Lainsburg By now it was already past 17.00 and we needed to 'hurry' to Merweville - another 40kms on N1 to the left turnoff, and another 80kms of breathtaking dirt to Merweville. Anel thought she spotted a wounded chameleon and forced Daantjie to stop - not sure how she saw it at 120kms/hour! Anyway, we all stopped and the chameleon turned out to be a locust in disguise. Chameleon Emergency stopChameleon Emergency stop The dusty road to MerwevilleThe dusty road to Merweville Amazing viewsAmazing views Ben and Sandra practice standing up on the straight stretchesBen and Sandra practice standing up on the straight stretches Anel managed to spot some GemsbokAnel managed to spot some Gemsbok As you near Merweville, the 'gatekeeper', a well-dressed scarecrow gentleman welcomes you. Merweville GatekeeperMerweville Gatekeeper We passed a lovely old church and some other buildings along the very wide road. Lovely old churchLovely old church We eventually found our camping spot at the back of Springbok Lodge. We pitched our tents in the dying rays of the sun on Merweville 'grass' - just sand and fine black stone, too hard to bash a tent peg into. We actually looked like a little squatter camp there. Dying embers: While we prepare our own embersDying embers: While we prepare our own embers We kuiered into the early evening around our African TV, eating our braai meat and telling stories. Most of us were quite bushed after a long day, and retired to bed early. Our CampsiteOur Campsite Sandra bandages her feet: New boots, you seeSandra bandages her feet: New boots, you see Springbok Lodge entranceSpringbok Lodge entrance Most of us missed the lovely swimming poolMost of us missed the lovely swimming pool We awoke early the next morning, Andy firing up his little gas stove to brew coffee for me, so that I could get fired up. We packed up again in a relaxed fashion and had a huge hearty breakfast at Die Kombuis, where the Tannie-in-Charge berated us for not having slept over in one of her guest houses! Breakfast stop MerwevilleBreakfast stop Merweville A breakfast that skriks for niksA breakfast that skriks for niks Merweville (32° 45.5' S / 21° 41' E ) seems to have arisen in the 1890s out of the need of farmers in the Beaufort West area to establish a parish closer to home. A church was built in the now Merweville town and the Dominee van der Merwe traveled many kms from Beaufort West to hold services for the farmers here. In the meantime an enterprising farmer, Van der Bijl, bought and developed quite a bit of land in the area. Some time afterwards the Anglo-Boer war happened upon them and he was apparently jailed in his own farm house. After his death in 1904, the church bought up his lands and buildings and the town of Merweville came into existence. Apparently a meteorite site was found on a farm 30kms away in 1977. Except for a few bits of colourful history and some lovely tourist spots (the 1st cell phone reception is only very recent), the town's primary source of income is sheep farming. Signs of "civilisation" in MerwevilleSigns of "civilisation" in Merweville We left for Sutherland via a 'minor' road. The road was pretty good (my confidence levels were really building up) for about 20kms, and then wash-aways became more frequent and then more sandy, deep and precarious at speed. Good roadsGood roads This should have been a hint of what was to come. Fortunately, I had no prior knowledge (poor Ben didn't sleep the night before because of prior knowledge) of the mountain pass to come, not even when I passed the sign indicating 10km/hr. Subtle warning signsSubtle warning signs When I did realize, I thought 'oh s*&*T' and my helmet started to steam up. I eventually leveled out, flicking up my visor, turning a hairish hairpin bend and pulling myself and my 650 up the steep rutted winding pass. I arrived sweating at the top to find Daantjie, Anel and Brendan waiting. They were quite surprised to see me - I wonder why. Further down, Ben and Sandra had run into a spot of trouble, which eventually lasted 5 hours. They'd hit a rock and gashed the side wall of their back tyre. Spot of troubleSpot of trouble Good bike on good bit of bad roadGood bike on good bit of bad road Charles ferried Sandra to the top of the mountain, where she continued to walk (yes walk) towards Sutherland, bearing 1 bottle of water. Fortunately she stopped at the top of the hill! Brendan, Charles and Daantjie and Anel all went back to the stricken motorbike. Any suggestions?Any suggestions? Sometimes you just have to stop: amidst your troubles and survey the beauties!Sometimes you just have to stop: amidst your troubles and survey the beauties! Ok, so the plugs don't work.: Now what?Ok, so the plugs don't work.: Now what? Ok, we'll try Plan No.14FOk, we'll try Plan No.14F A few hours, many four-letter words, and many words of advice later - the bike simply could not be repaired with the spares we had. By 14.00 we had 3 plans: 1. BMW On-call 2. Daantjie & rest of group (excl Ben) to travel to Worcester, Daantjie to return with spare tyre in his bakkie (a distance of over 200kms 1 way). 3. Daantjie & rest of group to travel to beyond Sutherland where Daantjie's boss has a weekend farm, borrow a bakkie and collect Ben and Bike. ''Option 1'' seemed to be the most trouble-free, but it took over half-an-hour of precious time to get through to an assistant, who thought we were somewhere in Swaziland (not Sutherland). She cut herself off, trying to give us a reference number. A 2nd call and another half an hour and we were made to understand that Ben could be collected that day, but that the bike could only be collected on the Tuesday, due to it being Easter. So that ruled Option 1 out. In the meantime, we collected water and food amongst ourselves, and Charles on the nimble Badger ferried this and messages back and forth to the stricken Ben. We turned to ''Option 2'', and Daantjie tried to call his boss - no luck. So we were forced to ''Option 3''. We traveled up and down across the mountains, through gates, which had to be opened and closed, through drifts and wash-aways, through thick black sand and eventually, many kms (only about 55) onto the tar towards Sutherland. One of the many wash-awaysOne of the many wash-aways Wonderful countrysideWonderful countryside You just have to stop and admireYou just have to stop and admire Daantjie and Anel sped on ahead to make up time and get to Worcester ASAP. The rest of us (Charles was riding with Sandra as pillion) continued on the 100km tar to Matjiesfontein. About 30kms from Matjiesfontein another drama awaited us. Andy came across fresh BMW bits and pieces (tyre and lights) - we're still not sure how he managed to identify them as BMW at 130kms/hr. Fearing the worst, Steve and Andy traveled each side of the road looking for a stricken BMW (hopefully not in the form of Daantjie and Anel). Then they spotted his bike standing in the yard of the house just off the road. And now for the most stunning item: Daantjie's back tyre delaminated (@ 170kms/hr) just outside his boss's house! Delamination of an old back tyre: The top box spared Anel of some serious injuriesDelamination of an old back tyre: The top box spared Anel of some serious injuries To cut a long story short, we reverted to ''Plan 2'' and halved Ben's rescue time dramatically. (I tend to think that we didn't have anything to do with the Masterplan at all) A cold glass of Coke and water restored our spirits and energy. We'd given all our water to Ben. Daantjie and Anel took the bakkie (thank you Daantjie's boss) to collect Ben. ETA 17.30. The rest of us headed for Matjiesfontein, trashing our plans of taking the dirt road from there to Ceres. The driving factors were time and lack of fuel. In Matjiesfontein we discovered that the Easter Bunny had shut down the fuel pumps and the town, so we edged on to Touwsriver. Some only had a few ml left in their tanks. My 650 had 3L left! We had a quick burger and chips at Steers, said some goodbyes and headed for home. Andy and I peeled off in Worcester to overnight at our Bainskloof hut. Steve, Charles and Sandra went on via the old pass to Paarl, depositing Sandra safely at her home. Brendan had left us already in Touwsriver. We all arrived home exhausted, happy and in one piece. Meanwhile - back at the ranch. Andy called Ben from Sutherland to tell him of the Plan 2 and ETA of 17.30. Ben decided to keep himself busy by preparing for the forthcoming uploading of the bike. He carried all his gear in several trips 2kms down the steep mountain pass in his biking boots. Then, once all the gear was below, he went back to walk his bike down (no mean feat). While he was doing this, he was met by a bakkie and a well-intentioned driver, carrying all his gear up again! When the driver heard that the gear was meant to be at the bottom, he promptly off-loaded it and drove off again! Ben counted to 10 several times and said thank you in as many four-letter words while watching the bakkie disappearing in a cloud of dust and spraying stones. Well, there was nothing else to do but carry it all down again. Daantjie and Anel arrived bang on time at 17.40 and I'm not sure how, but they loaded the bike onto it, turned the bakkie around and began a slow trek back to Paarl, opening and closing gates, crossing drifts and sand patches. With a heavily laden bakkie, this was no mean feat. Eventually they arrived in Paarl after midnight. Not sure what time they got back to Worcester. Daantjie-On-CallDaantjie-On-Call It was getting lateIt was getting late On Sunday Daantjie and Anel took a spare tyre to the Sutherland farm and retrieved their bike. They almost ran out of fuel just outside Touwsriver, just to top it all. But what a memorable and beautiful trip - what wonderful people and team spirit! Thank you especially to Daantjie and Anel for inviting us on your very well-unorganised trip. We really enjoyed every minute of it. If you've got nothing to do one day, do yourself a favour and visit Merweville the long way round. PS read [http://www.bmwmotorcycleclubcape.co.za/self-sufficency-out-cuds Self-sufficiency out in the cuds]

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Andyman's picture
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Joined: 2007/06/22
Thanks Annie, Phew, the task of uploading all those photos..... I'll bring the photos to the club meeting to swap with others on the trip. This was wonderful Andyman Yup that's me. Standing up in the traffic on the 1150GSA.

Andyman
Anyone can ride a bike fast....   But can you ride your bike real slow???

Charles Oertel's picture
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Joined: 2007/04/14
Hi Anne Thanks for a superb trip report - you have raised the bar for content and quality of presentation! I realise now why Brendan found his tyres to be at 2.5 bar when he wanted to inflate them for the tar: we deflated after the long stop for breakfast, and the tyres were at 1.5bar cold. Normally we deflate when hot and are at 1.5bar hot. Once the tyres warm up the pressure increases. This was probably a good thing, because there were a few times on the rocks when I thought we should have higher pressures to protect the tyres.

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Benna's picture
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Thanks to all. What more can I say. You guys (and Annie) were all wonderful. Although I only made it half way, this trip turned out to be fantastic. Daantjie got me and the GSA home safely and Charles made sure that my other love, Sandra, made it back as well (although still in shock ...) Thanks Daantjie & Charles, my heroes. Sandra and I have learnt so much on this trip = not only about riding our bike, but more so about true friendship, encouragement and endless assistance to us. Thank you so much for all the effort with my rear wheel up in the mountain. Facing the burning sun, working, sweating, “vasbyt” and never giving up. Thank you so much for the endless supply of patches, glue, tube, tyre gel, valves, sweets, water, biscuits, sunblock, lip-ice, etc. You still had a hard trip ahead and gave up all your water to me. And then Daantjie still had the disaster with his own rear tyre... Thanks again Andy, Brendan, Steve, Charles and Daantjie. I’ll let you know when the GSA is mobile again, and we’ll meet out there on the backroads again. THANKS GUYS ! Benna & Sandra StoppingStoppingOn the pegsOn the pegsOn our wayOn our wayRest stop at some shadeRest stop at some shadeTime to chatTime to chatSeweweeks lunch timeSeweweeks lunch timeSeweweekspoortSeweweekspoortFull moon at MerwevilleFull moon at MerwevilleDisaster struckDisaster struckWaiting for the recovery bakkie ...Waiting for the recovery bakkie ...KIND van die WIND
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Daantjie's picture
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Joined: 2008/01/24
Thanks Ann for an excellent trip report. Your captions is the best. I am the chameleon saver not Anél. Hope everyone will join us again on forthcoming "unorganised" moonlight drive!!
AJ
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Joined: 2007/11/02
Daantjie dit is n nice report. Ek is nou sommer net die hel in omdat ek nie kon saam nie dit lyk baie lekker. Dankie Annie nice om te lees.
William (not verified)
I really likes this: Old waterpump still in use: With a disused electric pump in working order in the background.. Thank You Eskom
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Joined: 2007/06/25
As always, a brilliant report. You make it sound sooo eeasy. We have done those roads and this report has certainly ignited that ray again, after all the home maintenence has been completed it's A into G. Ignore opinions, heed facts. Feet on the pegs, always.

Think before you ink.

Trust is the most valuable asset.

I have the rest of my life to get old.

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That church in Merweville, is it not sooo beautiful? similar in architecture to the one in Graaff Reinet? possibly stroked from the same pen? Care to comment? Ignore opinions, heed facts. Feet on the pegs, always.

Think before you ink.

Trust is the most valuable asset.

I have the rest of my life to get old.

Frank's picture
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Joined: 2008/02/29
What an adventure! Being stuck overseas and working through Easter, I really enjoyed reading your report and seeing the pictures. May I add one more theory regarding the origin of the name 'Seweweekspoort'? Years ago we camped on a farm at the foot of the Towerkop mountain. This koppie was used for the Towerkop Dairies logo and according to the very chatty farmer, ledgend has it that an angry witch struck the koppie with her broom in a rage and split it open. The same farmer told us that the poort was named for a Jewish trader of Polish extracion that had a trading post at the entrance to the poort. Again, the theory goes that his name "Sievovich' was unpronouncable to the locals, hence the name 'Ou Seweweeks'. Of course, being lost in time it's anyone's guess... Thanks for a great read.
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Andyman's picture
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Joined: 2007/06/22
Cheesy, Quote "Well-known architects Heese and Heese arrived in 1906 with plans for a the magnificent church which today still stands and has been declared a National Monument." Merweville churchMerweville church This came off the webpage, so compare with the other church and let us know. Andyman Yup that's me. Standing up in the traffic on the 1150GSA.

Andyman
Anyone can ride a bike fast....   But can you ride your bike real slow???

Stevet's picture
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Joined: 2007/11/02
Thanks Annie - great report - all key info in one go - will bring my pics to the meet tonite as well
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Annie's picture
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Joined: 2007/06/17
Some more pics: How to set up the camera for a group photo in the bushHow to set up the camera for a group photo in the bush All packed and ready to rollAll packed and ready to roll The treacherous pass - was not difficult if you knew how. Does anyone know what this little pass is called? The Rooidraai passThe Rooidraai pass Brendan goes back to have a lookBrendan goes back to have a look Trying to plug a wheelTrying to plug a wheel One little hole with many onlookersOne little hole with many onlookers View from the top of the difficult stretchView from the top of the difficult stretch
Daantjie's picture
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Joined: 2008/01/24
The name of the bergpaadjie is Rooidraai. Got that from the farm owner.
Annie's picture
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Thanks Daantjie. I will update the captions. René, now you know!
Annie's picture
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René, I have done a little reading about the churches and come up with some interesting history. The church in Merweville was designed in 1906 by architects Heese & Heese. The Church in Graaff Reinet was designed by architect James Bisset, who also designed the church in Beaufort West, close to Merweville. The Graaff Reinet church is said to be a replica of Salisbury Cathedral (built in the 1200's, with the spire being added later on in the 1300's), and building was completed in 1886. Bisset's Beaufort West Church was completed in 1892. Heese and Heese must have been inspired by these churches. See photos below of similarities. Graaff Reinet church completed 1886Graaff Reinet church completed 1886 Graaff Reinet ChurchGraaff Reinet Church Beaufort West Church completed 1892Beaufort West Church completed 1892 Salisbury Cathedral which seems to have in"spired" these churchesSalisbury Cathedral which seems to have in"spired" these churches Interesting?
Stevet's picture
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Joined: 2007/11/02
Just as a matter of interest re Salisbury cathedral - read the book Sarum (cant remember the author) - it is a fascinating novelised version of the history of that cathedral - going right back to roman times before there was actually a church on that site.
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Tx. Annie for the information on the churches and THAT pass. Having seen the photos I am comfortable with the condition there of when we went up, about a week earlier the region also had rain and the section after the pass towards Surherland was a touch challenging. Ignore opinions, heed facts. Feet on the pegs, always.

Think before you ink.

Trust is the most valuable asset.

I have the rest of my life to get old.

John_KTM990's picture
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Joined: 2007/10/22
Great report and pics, I have to agree that BMW oncall is not an option. We also had a sidewall puncture this long weekend. We were traveling along the 4x4 track 25km outside the back of Wupperthal when it happened. There's no cell phone reception there and luckily we had a Sat phone. Unluckily the operator had no idea what we meant when we said we were near Wupperthal, after 2 calls lasting 20 mins each and being cut off by the operator while he was "transferring" us..... at $1 per minute we gave up. A group doing the 4x4 course in their Land Crusiers stopped and put some stuff in the tyre and about 15 plugs which managed to keep the air in for 5 mins at a time. It took us 4 hours to get into Wupperthal and another 3 to Clanwilliam, stopping every few minutes to use the compressor, Schumacher would have been impressed at the speed we could eventually get the seat off, the compressor connected, pump the wheel and re-assemble....in the pitch dark. It was all still good fun