Archive of BMW Motorrad Club Cape (2006 - 2019)

actually very keen

just a bit confused (nothing unusual there!) - are they 35mm or height adustable? Or what does it mean?

Anyhow, wondering if 35mm is enough, or is there a height limit before it gets unstable..

I definitely need something - the giraffe about to let go posture is a bit much :)

[I see you're in hout bay.. do you ever come Milnerton way?]

Dennis,

Just be make sure you can still turn your bars fully L or R once the raisers are on...........if not you could damage your screen!

Geoff

35mm should be more than enough.

Most handle bar raisers are only 25mm.

Thanks for that - would never have thought of that..

whew.. does that really make much of a difference?

anyhow, I've said I'll take them -Oudts will be the testing ground. Just have to get out there and pay..

Make sure too that you have enough slack on your cables (throttle, clutch etc) or you'll have to re-route them which is a mission.

Also, if your 650 has ABS braking you'll need a longer brake line.

this is sounding less and less like a viable option...

hmmm. The only problem is that I've already told the man I'll take them. It is a good idea in terms of my height, and standing position. I'll just have to hope they work..

I know "hope" isn't a good word to apply to a bike..

Don't stress it Dogbox.... I'm sure they'll be fine.

There is only one way to find out.... 

If it turns out to be a bit of a mission, it'll still be worth it.

Handlebar raisers are considered by many (if not all) to be an essential upgrade, and the fact you're getting em so cheap should make it a no brainer.

Totally agree with Cloudgazer ... it's 4 bolts, remove, see if the raisers fit, taking note of all the tips in this thread, tighten the top two bolts to the correct torque, then the bottom two (this sequence is specified in the manual) and voila ... job done.

If the "mission" becomes a reality, just put the original bracket back without changing anything and ask Shane to have a look at it during the next service.

I am the proud owner of these riser things - in fact they are resident in my back pocket as I type. Will attach them tonight, and give feedback in the morning..

Thanks for all the advice

H/bar raisser sold - thanks!

Just for all, 35mm adjustabel means just that, spacer consist of 4 or 5 variable-thickness parts, the SUM of which makes 35mm.

So you could have 25mm, 20 mm 30mm, etc.

35mm is about the max you can go withoug lengthening cables, etc.

Cheers

Thanks Mr Z

Spent a whole evening trying to attach them.. figured they only go one way, despite looking identical both ways... there were four pieces to each, and the trick was to work out which way to put each (of eight pieces.)

Now to get used to them before Saturday.

Also troubleshooting a dead hooter, all the wires, all the switches, only to discover the horn doesn't work - dead, deceased, gone to meet it's maker.

And found that the headlight flash thing is pretty close to burning up the switch. The internet sites tell me that one should avoid using it altogether as a long push on it will burn the switch out.

An evening well spent then?

I never use the 'headlght flash thingy' as my brights are on all the time during the day.

Thanks to all who advised. Oudtshoorn proved it - I can now stand for 90kms - but has anybody got wider footpegs for sale? Either than or new feet?

Eina!

Mr Stripes - presume your hooter still not working? often, it is an easy fix, but it needs a little time (say 30 mins) and SMALL hands!

I fixed my own hooter twice (hmmn, first repair didn't hold!). Take a low stool or crate and SIT down next to front wheel. Take off mudguard, to locate hooter which sits out of harms way underneath th emudguard.

Check the wiring (spade connector) where it attaches to the hooter - is it indeed attached?

then follow the wiring as it follows its way up to the handlebars, looking for obvious damage along thw way. This is where SMALL HANDS comes into play - my 'mits' would not fit in the small spaces, so I borrowed a pair of petite hands, located the break (which was thankfully visible), and repaired it.

Fun job - good luck!

Thanks for that. Unfortunately I visited a pal who has all the gadgets, and we started

1. first at the switch (there was current)
2. then at the hooter end (there was current)
3. then I removed the horn itself and we tested it on various devices - it refused to blow.

At least the diagnosis is known - it has truly died. I contacted Atlantic and a new one will cost R425.

There is 5mm between the raised bar and the screen... cutting it fine! but at least it works..