Archive of BMW Motorrad Club Cape (2006 - 2019)

Every year I do a solo trip. In 2008, I went around South Africa in 8 days, covering 6992 km's, and never get to submit a trip report. This year, I wanted to go around Lake Malawi, but my family protested so hard that I reduced my trip and ended up doing it as far as the South of Zambia. I started of with Day one on Friday the 18th of September at only about 10:30, because everything that was left for the last minute started to eat my time. I was heading for either Bushwhacked on the banks of the Orange River at Vioolsdrift or the Farm of Hans Eberhard in the Karasburg District, depending on what time I get to Vioolsdrift. Gideon van den Heever told me about the Martini Henry Barrels that is drilled into the rocks about 30 Km’s before Springbok, and I stopped to have a look, because it has an interesting story to it. Apparently, the Barrels where drilled into the rock face during the Anglo Boer war, by British Soldiers that confiscated these rifles from the Boers to prevent them from using it again. Martini Henry Barrels drilled into rocks just before Springbok I first stopped in Springbok to have a cup of tea with Kalla van den Heever, and at about 16:00 left for Karasburg, because there was enough time left to still get to Karasburg. Well, I spend more than and hour at the border Post, because of the "Speedy" service of the Border Control officials. I Grunau, I stopped at the Hotel to buy some Kudu Biltong, and that was where it got dark. Too dark for my liking, because the spotlights on my bike had blown a fuse and I had no spare fuse with me. I hit the D306 in total Darkness and with my good luck, thick sand. I eventually stopped to deflate my tyres, because I could not see well enough to get a decent speed to be able to handle the sand properly. I stopped in front of Hans’s house 20 minutes past 10. The hospitality of the Namibians speaks for itself. After a decent Kudu steak, Hans went hunting Jackal, and I hit the sack, very happy with my days travelling, but sad to have so little time to have a decent “kuier” with Hans. The next morning Hans helped me with a fuse, I discovered that the fuse went because the left spotlight bulb fused. At least I have one more light. Because we could not stop chatting, I ended up leaving 9:30. My initial idea was to see the eastern part of Namibia and wanted to travel through Gochas, Stampriet all along the Botswana border through Gobabis to Tsumeb. It started of very well. The road to Aroab The roads were all very sandy at paces, but it was possible to 100 - 140km/h that helped to get over the wakes, like in waterskiing. Kalahari Sand Interesting Clay in the Koes Region The arid landscapes with the Kgalagadi creeping into Namibia was beautiful, but it needed so much concentration that I got caught out by sudden bad sand patches time and again. Instant sweat, hard work to get through and narrow escapes is not really what you would call enjoyment if you are travelling alone in such a deserted part of the world. Than the question that everybody asks you if you go solo: “What if something happens?” starts to haunt you, and eventually win the mental game and made me decide, 560 Km of sand is probably enough for now. From Stampriet, I hit the tar, and decided that I want to sleep in Tsumeb for the night. That gave me a daytrip of 1334Km. Nice Palms between Stampriet & Mariental When I turned onto the B1 at Mariental I started dreaming of the nice steak that we were served at the Makalani Hotel in Tsumeb in April 2008 when my wife and I went through Ovamboland. All the way, I could see myself having a nice cold coke waiting in the beautiful atmosphere of the Hotel relaxing after the long days ride to be served like a King, but to my great disappointment, the kitchen closed 21:00 and it was 21:20 on the clock in the foyer. I tried to persuade them to bake me an egg, but no luck. I was referred to the Wimpy, but that was closed as well, at the Minen Hotel the Manager said that even he does not have a key of their kitchen that was also already closed. I ended up with a fresh roll from the Engen Quick-shop and some awful processed cheese. Beautifull Tree on the Tsintsabis Road The Sunday morning, I got up, made some oats on my Jetboil, made lovely filter coffee that my dear wife pre-packed in Bank bags for easy measuring. Than I had my breakfast in the serene and fresh North Namibian morning sun. It was quiet, because it was Sunday. After I packed and stopped again at the Engin to fill up my petrol, I saw neatly dressed people on the way to church. That created nostalgia and a sense of security and safety. For the first time since my trip started, I was relaxed and collected. Entrance Gate to La Rochelle on the Tsintsabis Road La Rochelle Ranch - Farm of Kallie Du Preez in 1980 I left Tsumeb for Tsintsabis to find Johannes Koswab, a Tracker that served in the Namibian army with me. We met him in 2008 when he was sitting under a tree, totally blind and very old. I had the desire since I started to plan my trip to go and visit him, well it was too late. Geraldine the lady at the clinic in Tsintsabis that knew him very well was not on duty the weekend, and the best information that I could get from the locals is that all of the trackers were moved to Tsumkwe. On a sad note, I left Tsintsabis and starting to focus on the day ahead and got on the D3016 that connect with the main road to Rundu D 3016: Tsintsabis to Rundu On the way to the Rundu “Highway” I saw the turn-off the big Baobab Tree and decided to see if she is still in the good shape she has been 29 year ago. To my surprise, the beauty and character that can only be achieved if you age with such dignity under such harsh conditions. Splendid! Big Baobab Tree in the Grootfontein District The Harsh conditions that form character is so self explanatory if you look at the curve balls life through at this old tree, that now lay to rest, (to most people unaware of his existence), at the entrance to the Baobab tree. Deformed Tree Even the Desert Dragon crawled out of the woodwork! "Desert Dragon" I journeyed on towards Rundu, not after being surprised by a couple of soft sand and thick dust patches on the road. I followed the tarred road though the Kavango to Rundu where I stopped to fill up my tank again. My GPS said carry on 200 meter and turn right. I thought, I don’t know why, but if you say so, that’s what I will do. Needles to say, I ended up 6kms further in a very loose single track “Beesvoetpad”. How I got out of that without falling only that Blessed Sunday would know, but I managed to turn around and got back along the most terrible piece of road on my whole trip, unscathed. That is the time that the vulnerability of a GPS is at stake. If I had better resources to my avail, that would have been the point where I would have disassembled the Zumo 500 with a primitive Neanderthal type of tool and deliver it back to the elements of nature. I followed the Caprivi Highway through Divindu to Katima Mulilo and found the most interesting type of fruit, a Monkey Orange, something that I have never seen or heard of before. It does not taste bad at all, but I would not make a meal of it unless I am very hungry. Children Selling "Muhuluhulu" Fruit or Monkey Oranges Between Divindu and Katima a very interesting thing appeared on my instruments, my Speedo read 40 000km it was 143km from Rundu where I filled up on fuel, and it was 14:48 in the afternoon. May be it would mean something to people keen on Lotto Number, I don’t know. Strange but true. Than my first Big Foot, I had to go around this man to be able to proceed, but I did not mind, because he didn’t mind. Big Foot 1 Bream Sold at Katima Petol Station I arrived at Katima Mulilo, just after dark and after collecting Information at the petrol station, I headed off the Zambezi River Lodge. Entrance to Zambezi River Lodge This was where I took revenge......... To be continued