Archive of BMW Motorrad Club Cape (2006 - 2019)

While I was thinking about my solo ride through the Tankwa that I did last year, I was stirred by the idea of going back and showing some other riders the beauty of this place. A stay at the Middelpos Hotel was in any case long overdue. 

This time I wanted to enter the Tankwa from the farm Stonehenge as pictures of the landscape take at the African Burn had intrigued me.

Joining me on this ride was Jacques on a KLR and his wife Lizelle on her F800GS, Jannie on his KLR and Tony on his rather new 1200Adv. Lizelle was both very excited and anxious as she done quite a bit of ridding but not a long trip like this and definitely not much gravel.

 Lizelle happy to be invited with

We left from Durbanville in overcast weather but on dry roads, until we got to Bainskloof. Here the roads were very wet and the clouds hug low in the mountain. Lizelle motioned something about a fear of heights but it was shrugged off and we proceeded slowly through the pass. Just over the top we made two short stops to let faster traffic through and without incident we were on the other side and once again on dry roads. We all congratulated Lizelle on conquering Bainskloof for the first time.

Brunch at Steers in Ceres (not sure if Tony was trapping me out, or telling me how awesome his burger was) ;-)

Our first big stop was at Steers in Ceres for a quick branch to save on time. At this point I decided to leave Katbakkjies for our ride back as this would give us more time for today and shorten the long drag down the R355 the next day.

 Explaining to Jacques the fine art of deflating tyres

As we reached our first gravel after Theronsbeg we stopped to deflate tyres. The plan was to start off at 60km/h and when Lizelle was comfortable we would take that up to 80km/h.

 The Tankwa Padstal

Next rest stop was at the Tankwa Padstal situated just north of where the Katbakkjies road joins the R355. Here Hein told us to help ourselves to coffee while he got his wife Susan to make us some pancakes. This is really becoming such a popular stop just 80km from Ceres. As we arrived there was another group of 4 bikes about to leave, they had bought some wood from Hein and braaied worse that they brought with. I ask which way they were headed and they told me that they were also staying at Middelpos Hotel that evening but via the Oudebaskraal Dam.

All fed and rested we got ready to leave as another group of three bike pulled in at the Padstal and yes you guessed it, they were also headed for Middelpos Hotel.

We set off on the R355 again until we crossed the Tankwa River. It was really amazing to see this river with water in as it is normally just a sand gorge under a bridge.

 A flowing Tankwa River

Just over the river we turned into the farm Stonhenge. Amazingly the only broken gate I came across was this one.

Broke gate (KTM trouble) 

We rode into the Tankwa Tented Camp to announce ourselves and explain that Faan had granted us permission to ride through there to the Tankwa Reserve. Bernard who came out to great us would have none of it and insisted that we come in for something cold before going any further. While cooling off in the shade Maryke came over and offered to show us around. They really have an awesome setup out there and had they not been expecting something like 36 Hollanders that evening, our days ride would have ended right there and then.

Tankwa Tented Camp

But the solitude of the Tankwa Reserve was calling and we were soon on jeep tracks in the direction of Pramberg

Oops!!! 

My suggestion to Lizelle was to keep to 60km/h and should we come across very loose sandy tracks I would indicate to her to slow down and paddle through it.

The roads were in very good condition and led to an awesome opportunity to just take in as much of the scenery as one could. It is such a pity that one is inclined to rush through here on the way to some other destination and I was fortunate to have had a second opportunity to really enjoy it.

We stopped at the old Volmoetsfontein mud house with some amazing artifacts inside that have been collected from all around the area. I know someone whose father grew up around here as a child, he tells stories of walking from the Tankwa River to Ceres to sell skins and animals and then back to their home again with small treasures like sugger etc. The shade of the mud house was welcoming as it had started to get quite warm, but we needed to get going as we had still a way to go.

 Volmoetsfontein Old Mud House

Things inside the mud house

Ridding along with Springbuck and other animals right near you is the most amazing thing on a bike, but before too long we had stopped at the foot of Gannaga Pass.

Now after Lizelle saying something about a fear of heights I deliberately said very little about Gannaga, simply because there was no better alternative route to get on top of the Roggevelt Escarpment.

Gannaga Pass

The main challenge would be the two or three hairpin bends at the top. I enjoyed the look on Jannie’s face as I was explaining to Lizelle that she should position herself in the tracks further away from the mountainside so that the U bends would be less tight.

Tony being on the Adventure with its low gearing would have it easy as the climb was going to be slow. However a stalled bike would present an interesting challenge for Lizelle to get going again.

Without incident and before we knew it, we onto of Gannaga and the flattish Roggeveld lay before us.

The only challenge left was dodging the dried up muddy track that reminded me of my hellish ride through there in June. It was just so good to do it this time in any gear over second and without my heart in my throat every few meters.

What the road looked like in June

By 5.30pm we were at Middelpos Hotel where the first group from earlier were settling in to their room already. As we moved into our rooms the other group pulled in but with one of the bikes on the back of a Land Cruiser bakkie.

 Jacques happy to finaly get to Middelpos and off the bike a bit

The story goes that he overshot a bend but managed to keep the bike upright as the fences caught him. Only when he touched the (electrified) fence with his hand was there a separation between him and bike. J

He was ridding and old 650 Aprillia and only the plastic water bottle got holed. When I offered him some epoxy to repair it, he told me that he done with ridding for that trip. I don’t know if it was the big shock of going off the road or from the fence that finished him J

After yet an amazing dinner prepared by Helena, I set off to my room as another long day in the saddle lay ahead for us.

Next morning we loaded the bikes before breakfast. Then after pap, eggs, bacon and worse with some bokbotter on toast we fuelled up the bikes and set off.

The route took us north out of town for 1.5km where we turned west towards Bloukrans Pass on the R355. This option had plenty of gates of which I was privileged to open and close each and every one.

First of many farm gates

There were no incidents to mention other that a deep water crossing that was another first for Lizelle. Taking a picture would have made her more nervous than what she would have liked, so we just enjoyed it in the moment.

Tony waiting for gate to be opened

Jannie waiting for gate to be opened

Lizelle waiting for gate to be opened

After some really awesome scenery we reached the R355 about 15km from Calvina. What lay before us was about 190km of uninterrupted gravel road. If you have never ridden the full length of the R355 in one go, then that is something you need to do at least once in your life.

On our way to Bloukrans Pass

On top of Bloukransberg

After a good mind clearing ride we pulled into the Tankwa Padstal again for some strong coffee and some or other form of energy snack. I choose the fudge again.

 We then turned off the R355 to Katbakkjies, where on the way up we stopped to look back at the incredibly vast Tankwa Karoo.

Our last regroup was at Prince Alfred Hamlet to refuel and pump tyres for the remaining tar roads that would take us home.

As it was already late afternoon Jannie and I said out good byes and headed home over Bainskloof while Lizelle, Jacques and Tony took the longer way back. The wind through Bainskloof was the worst that I have yet experienced and made the ride home very tiring.

Day 1 about 130km Tar and about 210km Gravel

Day 2 about 140km Tar and about 320km Gravel

Well done to all for a ride worth remembering.

At the end of the day it was still Jacques that won Lizelle's heart ;-)