Archive of BMW Motorrad Club Cape (2006 - 2019)

It was a trip that just had to be done – 10 days in Namibia, away from everything  and just miles and miles of the best dirt roads to ride. The planning was done, the route finalized and thanks to Gavin Green of Swartberg Biking tours, the accommodation arrangements were made.

The three of us on bikes; me and Russell Rathbone on BMW Adventures, Paul Bester on a BMW GS1200 and two guys in the back up bakkie; John van der Merwe and Schalk de Wet were going to finally get the chance to explore the open spaces of our friendly neighbours.

Writing this, I cannot overstate the friendliness of everyone we had contact with in Namibia. They seem to have gotten something right that South Africa is still missing - I wish that our minister of tourism goes over there and sees for himself what can be achieved if everyone works together. By experiencing the hospitality of Namibia, I am also struck by the state of our own country – I am shocked and ashamed at how far we have gone down the wrong path, compared to the Namibians – I never found a government employee with a bad attitude or a policeman or soldier with a uniform that wasn’t perfect. Always perfectly dressed, proud, friendly and polite. To steal the words of Russell: “Our poor Namibian cousins aren’t so poor anymore – in fact the roles have changed – we are the poor cousins now.”  The contrast coming back to our border was so clear when the overweight slouching officials did their job with an attitude that they are somehow doing me a favour.

Day 1 (Durbanville to Van Rhynsdorp)

Ready, exited and eager to get going

Russell voor hy sy @#$ afgeval het. Let op die golfstok wat teen die aerial vasgemaak is – meer daaroor later…

Ons het by Malmesbury die grondpad na Morreesburg gevat, want ons het ons voorgeneem om so min as moontlik teerpad te ry. Die hele idee van die trip was om sowat 5500km grondpad te ry. Van Moorreesburg het ons die agterpad na Kapteinsklip gery en daarvandaan deur die Sandveld na Graafwater.

Van Graafwater oppad na Van Rhynsdorp, het ek die afdraai na links geneem om oor die koppe na Trawal te ry, maar by die volgende afdraai, nadat ek 30min gewag het vir die ander twee manne, het ek geweet iets skort en ek het daai nare gevoelop my maag begin kry wat niks goeds voorspel nie. Ek het my spoor terug gevat Graafwater toe, en na ‘n paar navrae by mense langs die pad en ‘n polisieman wat van voor af gekom het ek besef die manne het aangery na Van Rhynsdorp. Ek het vir Paul en Russell eers by die petrolpompe in Van Rhynsdorp ingehaal, maar kon dadelik sien iets is verkeerd.

I then discovered what happened. The golf club that Russ had on his bike (to hit golf balls off dune 7) came loose in the corrugated road from Graafwater and lodged itself in the spokes of his rear wheel. At about 100km/h the bike lost control and dumped Russ into the ground. He fell heavely on his left side and twisted his wrist. We thought the trip was over. His bike also looked a bit beaten up.

After an injection from the local docter in Van Rhynsdorp  and a handfull of pills he was on the bike again and we were off to my brother in laws farm 20km outside Van Rhynsdorp. We think the pills really worked well as after some more brandy medication Russ was speaking flaunt Afrikaans. At least we now had the recipy for Russ for the rest of the trip – start off with some pills and the follow up with bandy and coke as regularly as possible.

Christo helped to bend his bike into shape and fix a few odds and ends  that evening and after a few big T bones on the braai, we had a good night’s rest.

Day 2 (Van Rhynsdorp to Port Nolloth)

Die volgende oggend was dit lekker mistig en koel toe ons van Christo se plaas buite Van Rhynsdorp vertrek. 

Christo kan nie help om soos ‘n regte boertjie te lyk nie. Die man het ‘n hart van goud 

Ons het gou eers na Vredendal gery om so ‘n paar spares te koop vir die regmaakslag en teen 12h00 was ons oppad na Lutzville en Nuwerus. Die pad na Garies was maar vervelig, maar ons het die ou pas buite Garies gevat na die afdraai oppad na Hondeklipbaai.

Van Hondeklipbaai is ons na Koingnaas en Kleinzee, en vandaar na Port Nolloth

Van Hondeklipbaai is ons na Koingnaas en Kleinzee, en vandaar na Port Nolloth.

Die reuse hope sand van die diamantmyne by Koingnaas.

Van Koingnaas na Kleinzee is dit ‘n teerpad met baie wildlewe in die omgewing. Daar is baie volstruise en groot troppe springbokke langs die pad. Toe ons hierdeur gery het was daar geen verkeer nie en ons kon lekker vinnig vordering maak. Daar is heelwat afdraaiplekke na 4x4 roetes in die omgewing en ek het ‘n mental note gemaak om weer hierheen te kom met die 4x4 om die weskus beter te leer ken – dit het vir my gelyk asof dit nogal ‘n gewilde en ongerepte plek kan wees, en die natuurskoon is baie mooi (behalwe vir die mynbedrywighede).

Na ons deur omtrent 5 sekuriteitspunte is, kon ons die grondpad na Port Nolloth vat vir die laaste 30 kilos.

 Die uitsig uit ons huisie by McDougalsbaai

Ons het oorgebly by Port Indigo gastehuis in McDougalsbaai. Baie netjies en skoon met ‘n pragtige see uitsig, reg op die strand. Daardie aand het ons die naglewe van Port Nolloth gaan verken, en na ‘n paar bottles wyn en 5 restaurante later, was ons enigste behoefte om te gaan slaap. Ons het egter ‘n resep ontdek om ‘n dorp vinnig te leer ken: eet by elke restaurant wat oop is, al die voorgeregte op die spyskaart en beweeg na die volgende restaurant. 

Day 3 (Port Nolloth to Felix Cabanas)

After having breakfast at Port Dump (no, the place does not actually resemble the name), we took the road to Lekkersing and Kuboes to cross the Gariep River in the Richtersveld National Park at Sendelingsdrif.

 "Matchbox full of diamonds"

The road to Lekkersing was quite badly corrugated at places and became progressively worse the closer to Lekkersing we came. It seemed as if this road only gets graded when the budget allows for it.

Russ en Paul oppad na Lekkersing. Ek weet nie wat die berg se naam is nie, maar dit was nogals mooi in die oggendson. 

Let op dat Russ nie meer sy golfstok het nie. Ons dink dat Koerdap seker ‘n myn of so iets moet wees of was? 

Having a quick break

Past Lekkersing things went well until Russ and I – me being the guilty party, came round a bend riding next to each other and found a deep, thick sand pit where we both came off the bikes. Fortunately no bodily injury except to our pride and my Adventure lost the right mirror where my shoulder smashed it on the sand.

The sandpit 

A little bit shaken we got back in the saddle and made rest of the way to Sendelingsdrif without any further incident.  Somehow the sand seemed a lot thicker when we were there. 

From the entrance to the Richtersveld Park it is only about 25 km to the Sendelingsdrift borderpost.

Richtersveld

Die pont oor die Gariep was mooi en die ouens wat die pont opereer baie vriendelik. Dit neem omtrent so 10 minute om oor die rivier te gaan.

 Pont ride

On top of the hill next o the pont is the office of nature conservation. It has good facilities, but was sort of deserted when we were there. You can’t even buy a cooldrink.

Pretty but empty

The formalities of border control was quickly sorted out, we refuelled and got onto the pont to go over the river. On the Namibian side, we went through the border and got onto the road towards Rosh Pinah. It was immediately evident that the road was beautifully maintained and would be a pleasure to ride on.

The next moment, going up a little blind rise, the road suddenly made a left turn just beyond the blind rise and I knew I was too fast - I was heading straight for the rocks on the right and slammed on the back brakes, but too late! I smashed into the rocks and was hurled through the air and came to, lying flat on my back about fifteen metres from the bike, in the middle of the road. By a miracle I wasn’t thrown into the rocks and the bike did not land on top of me. As I looked towards my bike I could see all my baggage strewn across the road from the broken top box and oil pouring out of the left cylinder head cover. My first thoughts were that the trip is over.

Crash site

On closer inspection, we saw that the oil was coming from a crack in the tappet cover and was not pouring out but slowly seeping out. The engine started at least and seemed to be running fine.  The biggest issue now was the rear brakes that was jammed because if the bent rear brake lever and frame where the foot pegs and other stuff all joins up. We decided to disconnect the brakes and I would continue the rest of the day to Felix without brakes – the back pressure from the motor provided enough resistance to act as brakes. The busted top box was kept more or less shut with the help of a few stretchies and off we went again – a little bit shaken up and without brakes, but at least we made it to Felix without more incidents and enjoying the scenery along the river.

At the crossing of the Fish river Russ was really tired and after being assured by Paul that Felix is only 7km away we took off with renewed energy and finished the rest of the 90km thinking that Paul’s speedo must be broken.  The crooked psychology worked and we arrived at Felix before sunset and enjoyed a few beers before we checked in.

Here Russ enjoys the view of the Gariep (and himself) from the Fish river bridge

At Felix Cabanas, we met the owner, Carlos who is a Portuguese ex Angolan who fled to Namibia during the civil war. He basically arrived with nothing and has built up the Felix business from scratch. What a pleasant and helpful man! He helped us to fix my brakes and panel beated my top box so that the lid could at least close. I will recommend a stay at Felix Cabanas to anyone – not only because of Carlos, but also for the excellent facilities.

Day 4 (Felix Cabanas to Luderitz)

The next morning we woke up early to have breakfast before John and Schalk was to meet us at Felix.

John and Schalk jioned us as back up for the rest of the trip

The route for today was back along the Gariep river to Rosh Pinah an dfrom there take the long boring tar road to Aus. We will lunch at Aus and then go and see the wild horses and from there take the striaght 90km tar road to Luderitz.

Russ by die wildeperde van Aus.

Along the road to Luderitz, the railway suddenly stops and you can see that there were plans to finish it and there is sufficient rails and sleepers to probably get it done, but somehow it was never finished. The dirt road next to the railway line was just irrisistable to Russ and he basically most of the way to Luderitz on dirt. I was stopped by a oom and tannie in a bakkie that was very concerned – telling me that “daai man op die motorbike gaan sy nek breek”. All I could do was tel them was that “daai engelsman weet nie van beter nie!”

We arrived at Luderitz, went for a ride through town, had a beer at the point and got some more pills for Russ and myself now that I also joined the wounded league. I made the mistake of introducing Russ to Transact plasters and he really took to it very seroiusly at ons point he looked like mummy – all wrapped up in Transact. The strange thing is that he moans like crazy but as soon he gets onto his bike it is as if he get plugged into his life support and all of a sudden he becomes a wild man again.

The view from the yacht club 

Ons het so ‘n bietjie gaan keel natmaak by die Luderitz Yacht Club saam met Obelix. Daai man kan bier drink soos ek nog geen mens sien doen nie. Russell het die fout gemaak om daardie aand saam met Obelix te kuier tot in die vroee oggendure. Nodeloos om te se, het hy die volgende dag begin met ‘n paar ekstra hoofpynpille.

Day 5 (Luderitz to Hammerstein Lodge) 

Kolmansko was closed when we left

Ons wou by Kolmanskop op die toer gaan, maar die toer begin eers 9h30 Namibiese tyd. Wat beteken dit begin eers 10h30 RSA tyd. Ons het te veel kilo’s gehad om daardie dag te ry en moes maar die toer prysgee sodat ons voor sononder Hammerstein Lodge kan wees.

The namib was green 

Hierdie foto is geneem op die D707vanaf Aus oppad na Betta. Ek veronderstel dat die groen gras nie veronderstel is om gewoonlik hier te groei nie. Die mense wat blykbaar weet, vertel dat dit gewoonlik net sand is. Dit het so baie gereen in die somer dat die woestyn nou soos die groen koringlande van die Overberg lyk.

Duwiseb castle 

By die Duwisib kasteel het Russell nogal ‘n paar interressante vrae gehad soos bv: Hoekom het hulle nie kinders gehad nie? In die hele tyd wat die mense hier gebly het – hoekom word net melding gemaak van die perde waarmee hell geboer het? Vir my laat die plek ‘n mens met meer vrae as antwoorde – wat laat iemand uit Amerika hier kom bly in die middel van nerens?

Hammerstein Lodge het ‘n mak springbok ooitjie (Daisy). Hier maak sy en Paul beter kennis.

Day 6 (Hammerstein to Windhoek)

Ons het vroeg die oggend na Sossusvlei gegaan. Dit was mooi om te sien dat die baie reen die duine ‘n groen skynsel gegee het. Die wild was volop en ons het troppe van honderde springbokke gesien.

The green dunes at Sossusvlei 

Die foto wys nie rerig hoe groot die duin is nie. Dit is massief.

Massive dunes

Dead wood 

Die dooie ou boom is seker die mees fotografeerde stuk stomp in die wereld. Maar dit gee ‘n idee van die grote van die duin. Let op die mense wat in die agtergrond loop.

The Sossusvlei 

Die vlei het selfs water gehad – blykbaar ‘n redelike seldsame gebeurtenis.

Ons het besluit om ons toerprogram te wysig sodat ons eers na Windhoek gaan om by die Motorrad helstelwerk kan doen, want die olie wat uitlek uit die tappet cover het my so ‘n bietjie bekommeerd gehad. Ek wil vir Dieter (die mechanic van Danric BMW) ‘n pluimpie gee. Hulle het nie ‘n tappet cover in voorraad gehad nie en het vir my een van sy eie geleen. Hy het verder al die boute wat afgeruk is in die ongeluk uitgeboor en met nuwes vervang en die enjine bash plate reggebuig en nuwe mountings opgesweis . Hy het meer gedoen as wat ek gedink moontlik is of wat ek verwag het. Ek beveel vir Dieter hoogs aan en sal hom altyd dankbeer wees vir sy hulp. Na sy werk om my bike weer padvaardig te kry het dit weer gevoel asof ek ‘n nuwe fiets ry.

Ons fietse voor Dieter se workshop by Danric Motorrad met myne wat weer soos ‘n nuwe lyk in die agtergrond 

Day 7 (Windhoek to Swakopmund)

The plan was to take the route past Daan Viljoen game reserve through the Khomas Hoghland to Spitzkoppe and sleep that night under the stars if the weather permits it. When we hit the dirt road again about 30 km outside of Windhoek, we stopped to let our tire down. Paul and I did this, but Russ normally rides on hard tyres, was bored and decided to ride ahead so long – little did we know that that would be the last time we would see him that day.

Russ liked the road so much that he didn’t stop at the turn off’s and just went straight all the way to Swakopmund. We sort of realised this when Russ was nowhere to be found at the turn off to Spitzkoppe. The road to    was the best dirt road riding that Paul and I have ever experienced and we arrived in Usakos tired but happy.

Getting closer to the Spitzkoppe we realised that we had all Russ’s gear with us un the back up and that Paul and I would have to continue to Swakop and John and Schalk will remain at Spitzkoppe to enjoy the views and outdoor. After fixing a rear wheel puncture that I picked up on the tar road, we transferred the gear and Paul and I rode the rest of the 170km to Swakop in darkness.

We met up with Russ in Swakop and after a few pleasantries were exchanged, Russ checked out of his hotel and joined us at the house we rented in Langstrand. We had a fantastic dinner at the Burning Shore (unfortunately Angelina and Brad wasn’t there) and went off to bead dead tired after a very loooong day.

Day 8 (Dune 7)

View from the (almost top) op Dune 7: Russ almost made it to the top. Below you can see Andre and John in the bakkie. 

Day 9 (Swakopmund to Helmeringhausen)

At the Tropic of Capricorn an the way to Solitaire. 

Day 10 (Helmeringhausen to Canon Road Lodge)

This family were on their way dorp toe. They go every weekend - a trip of about 15 km there and back.: The donkey on the right is called Benoud (Stuffy), because he gets a bit windy when he has eaten the worng food. 

Day 11 (Canon Road Lodge to Durbanville)

This was the last day. The plan was to wake up early and get everything ready to go, have breakfast in the lodge and get on the bikes at 8h30 RSA time, because we had about 850km to ride today and we wanted to get home before dark. But we only left after 9 o’ clock and had to immediately push on to make up lost time.

We took the C37 road to the lookout point of the Fish river Canyon and passed a vintage car next to the road with a blown tyre – Russ and I knew that this might just be another opportunity for rescue 1 to give assistance and delay us further.  We pushed on to the lookout and what a sight! This was my first visit to the Canyon and I never imagined it would be as impressive at it is. The many photos that I have seen do not bring it justice – I encourage anyone who has not made the trip to definitely make plans to see it for your self – it is breath-taking.

We rushed out the park to find rescue 1 nowhere to be found – we thought that they were probably busy saving another stranded desert traveller next to the road and pushed on the C37 towards Ai Ais. What a brilliant dirt road to ride – it was smooth with a little bit of loose sand to make things interesting and a few nice curves and small hills to float over. We could easily manage 130 km’s/h without breaking a sweat. From Ai Ais, we took the D316 towards Noordoewer and the border and eventually found rescue 1 – they decided not to help the poor stranded man in his vintage car but instead went to Ai-Ais for a quick swim in the warm water– how is that for considerate!

We filled up at Noordoewer, went through the border without any hassles and agreed to stop every two hours for rest and refreshments going home. Everything went fine until we rode into rain at Citrusdal – we knew we would get soaked and decided to get it over as quick as possible by not wasting time. We flew past Piketberg, Moorreesburg and Malmesbury in record time to reach Durbanville just as the sun was setting. What an insane last two hours of riding to end a amasing trip!