My Four Province Solo Trip - Jane

Jane's picture
Route MapRoute Map The directional inspiration, for such a trip, came about while visiting with Chris (aka Padlangs) and Greta (Neil and I were invited to their new house, for a braai)…they had done a trip to St. Lucia. I had planned leave to do a trip, but up until this point, had no idea which direction to follow. After hearing Chris and Greta’s description of their trip, and seeing their photos, THIS WAS IT! Initially, I felt that I would like to follow the exact route taken by Chris and Greta… across to St. Lucia…but René had other plans for me. :-) René (aka Cheesy) and Jean had done a trip, similar to the route that would be planned for me. René was keen to help with planning, and at his age, with such experience, I felt completely comfortable to allow him to DICTATE my route. :-) So while visiting with René and Jean, I was told EXACTLY where I would be going. :-) Now that the route was sorted, there was other preparation necessary…I was in need of puncture repair instruction, and practice…who better than Neil? While practicing, we realized that it was a struggle for me, but that I WAS able to do it. Useful items : Neil made a puck for my bike’s side stand from poly-carbonate (+- 80mm in diameter), small enough to fit in my pocket, should I need it for soft or uneven surfaces…it proved very useful on many occasions. Pete insisted that I take his GPS. I ended up not using it, but it helped just knowing it was there, should I need it. Neil suggested I ride with a camelback…another very useful tip. I had made contact with B&B’s and hotels that would be on my route. I had also planned to meet up with Chris (Bolander) and Suzette, Morné and Shirley, in Aliwal North, on the way home. Trip all planned…but no bike! She had been in for repair, FAR longer than initially promised…I would not be able to meet up with my friends in Aliwal North. :-( At 14:45 on Saturday 15 March : I finally collected my, mostly completed, bike. We rode straight to Bike Stuff in Paarden Island, where Warwick had been patiently waiting for us for more than three hours, to fit a new rear tyre. What INCREDIBLE service!!! Sunday 16 March : Pre-trip test ride…Club ride to Riebeek-Kasteel. Had a lovely breakfast, with good company. Neil and I then rode through to my friend Greg, in Bothasig, who did a final check-over of my bike. I was now prepared for what became the best experience of my life…so far, that is :-) --------------- Day One : Monday 17 March 2008 Distance : 756km At 06:45 I left home (Milnerton)…on my way to Aberdeen for the night. I was to stay at David’s (one of Neil’s relatives) holiday house. A quick stop in Rawsonville, for a brief visit with Chris and Suzette...I found Suzette at home, but Chris was already at work, so I rode to the garage. I was told by Melinda (Chris and Suzette's daughter) that he'd gone out to a farm, on a call. I would possibly meet up with them on my way home. I rode at quite a pace, as distance wise, this was to be one of the longest day’s ride of the trip. Stopped at Laingsburg for a Wimpy breakfast. Other bikers had also chosen to have breakfast there, on their way back from the Buffalo Rally. After breakfast I set off for Aberdeen…only stopping to refuel and take one photo. Beaufort West to AberdeenBeaufort West to Aberdeen I arrived in Aberdeen at +-14:00, contacted David, who told me to phone John and Jean (friends of his, in Aberdeen)…could possibly leave my bike in their driveway, as opposed to on the street at his place. I phoned, and spoke to John, who invited me to stay at their place instead…invite accepted. It was still fairly early, and I had plenty energy left for more riding, so before settling in with John and Jean, I decided to ride through to Graaff-Reinet for lunch and maybe have a look around the town. Museum in Graaff-ReinetMuseum in Graaff-Reinet Had lunch at the Wimpy, then went to visit the Museum. It was now 16:30, and the Museum closes at 17:00, so I had a quick look around. Then back to Aberdeen. René and Neil had made a very strong suggestion…to visit The Valley of Desolation…but not alone! Once back in Aberdeen, I would ask John and Jean if they knew of a tour guide. Graaff-Reinet back to Aberdeen 1: Had a little rain.Graaff-Reinet back to Aberdeen 1: Had a little rain. Graaff-Reinet back to Aberdeen 2Graaff-Reinet back to Aberdeen 2 John and Jean made me feel so welcome. I chatted to them about The Valley of Desolation. Jean phoned her brother, Walter, in Graaff-Reinet…plans were made for me to have breakfast with him the following morning, in Graaff-Reinet…perhaps he could organize something for me? John and Jean with Vicky: Such lovely people...I really enjoyed my stay with them.John and Jean with Vicky: Such lovely people...I really enjoyed my stay with them. After a lovely dinner, more chatting, and a glass of warm milk…I was ready for a good night’s rest. Church in AberdeenChurch in Aberdeen -------------- Day Two : Tuesday 18 March 2008 Distance : 282km At 07:45, after waxing my bike’s chain, checking tyre pressures, and saying my goodbyes, I made my way from Aberdeen to Graaff-Reinet…and was greeted by, a very friendly, Walter Murray. During breakfast with Walter, I met his lovely wife, Ann. Walter informed me that he would personally accompany me to Camdeboo National Park, to see The Valley of Desolation…and what company he was! Walter has a wealth of knowledge…gave me the most brilliant guided tour. He encouraged me to buy a Wild Card, which I used to enter Camdeboo. Every plant and grass was named and commented on…was way too much information for me to remember, or even write down. He took me through an old bushman cave, that many are not aware of. We took a walk to The Valley of Desolation…incredible rock faces and cliffs. Walter pointed out a Black Eagle. The Valley of Desolation - 1The Valley of Desolation - 1 The Valley of Desolation - 2: With Spandaukop in the background.The Valley of Desolation - 2: With Spandaukop in the background. The Valley of Desolation - 3The Valley of Desolation - 3 The Valley of Desolation - 4The Valley of Desolation - 4 SpandaukopSpandaukop Cabbage Trees (Kiepersol)Cabbage Trees (Kiepersol) Bloukop KogelmanderBloukop Kogelmander Bushman CaveBushman Cave We had spent a couple of hours touring Camdeboo. We then made our way back to Walter’s house, for lunch with Ann…a good, healthy, home cooked meal. Walter’s family own Bloemhof Farm, just outside Graaff-Reinet. This is predominantly a game, cattle, and sheep farm…and the historic farm house also serves as a guest house. Walter and Ann moved off the farm in 2000, when their son, Julian, took over the responsibility of running things. I was invited to stay at the farm for a night, or two, on my way home…I readily accepted…what an opportunity! Walter and Ann with Trudy (a Brittney...French dog breed)Walter and Ann with Trudy (a Brittney...French dog breed) We said our goodbyes…and I was on my way to Colesberg. On the N9, from 10km before Colesberg, the road surface suddenly deteriorates. Lootsberg Pass - 1: Between Graaff-Reinet and Colesberg.Lootsberg Pass - 1: Between Graaff-Reinet and Colesberg. Lootsberg Pass - 2Lootsberg Pass - 2 I arrived late afternoon at the gate to Colesview Guest House. Réne, Colesview’s owner, came to greet. I enquired on availability, and was told that I’d come at just the right time…from the very next day, they were fully booked until the following week…but on this night, completely empty…so I had the whole house to myself, for R185, including breakfast. Colesview Guest House - 1Colesview Guest House - 1 Colesview Guest House - 2Colesview Guest House - 2 A quick ride around town, then to Wimpy for dinner. Had just received my meal, when the power went out…loadshedding…but Wimpy had a generator. Arrived back at Colesview to find Réne and her husband, Alex, waiting for me with torches…they were so concerned about me in the darkness. I checked my bike’s oil level by torchlight. About an hour later, the power was back on, and I was able to enjoy watching a movie on DSTV :-) …then it was bed time. Colesberg Magistrate's OfficeColesberg Magistrate's Office Colesberg ChurchColesberg Church The Plattelander Restaurant - Colesberg: Built in 1842.The Plattelander Restaurant - Colesberg: Built in 1842. --------------- Day Three : Wednesday 19 March 2008 Distance : 698km Map for Day ThreeMap for Day Three After a good breakfast, and plenty chatting with Réne and Alex, it was time to check tyre pressures…no problems. Just outside town I realised I’d forgotten my puck in the garage…back to Colesview, collected the puck, and was finally on my way at +-08:45…much later than planned. This was to, possibly, be a long day’s ride…René had plotted Ladybrand for the night, but I wanted to try make Clarens. I would make my decision in Ladybrand…it would depend on what time I arrived there. The N1 from Colesberg to my turnoff to the R701 was frightening…I’d been warned by many, about the trucks, but never realised just how many there would be! Surrounded by them, I only overtook on a couple of occasions, very cautiously…not leaving anything to chance. The R701 was a pleasant road, with a good tarred surface…there is a sign warning of potholes…I found none. Just after the sign ’40km to Smithfield’, the R701 turns off, quite suddenly, to the left…I suppose I was riding a bit too quickly… nearly missed the turn. :-) R701 between Colesberg and Bethulie.R701 between Colesberg and Bethulie. Had a quick look around Smithfield…then took the N6 to Rouxville. Smithfield - 1Smithfield - 1 Smithfield - 2Smithfield - 2 Smithfield - 3Smithfield - 3 RouxvilleRouxville The road surface from Rouxville to Zastron (R26) is terrible :-(…MANY potholes. Rouxville to ZastronRouxville to Zastron Rode around Zastron briefly, then continued on the R26 to Wepener…another brief look. Zastron - 1Zastron - 1 Zastron - 2Zastron - 2 Zastron - 3Zastron - 3 Wepener - 1Wepener - 1 Wepener - 2Wepener - 2 R26 to Ladybrand…arrived at about 14:00, had lunch at Wimpy, and made the decision to push on to Clarens. Riding along the N8, I suddenly hit a ridge in the road, causing a fairly serious, tank slap…my thoughts : I must ride slower! Turned back to take photos of this troublesome ridge. N8 from Ladybrand to Tweespruit - 1N8 from Ladybrand to Tweespruit - 1 N8 from Ladybrand to Tweespruit - 2N8 from Ladybrand to Tweespruit - 2 N8 from Ladybrand to Tweespruit - 3N8 from Ladybrand to Tweespruit - 3 N8 from Ladybrand to Tweespruit - 4N8 from Ladybrand to Tweespruit - 4 The following unpleasant experience, also took place on the N8. I was approaching a turnoff, but was too far back to read the sign clearly…this could be the R709 (the turnoff I was to take). At this point there was a car racing up behind me at extremely high speed. I had to make a decision quickly, to give the driver a clear understanding of what I was doing. I decided to take the turnoff…could always get back onto the N8, no problem. I indicated and moved over to the right, giving him plenty of warning, and space, to pass on my left. I then looked in my left mirror…no car…looked to my right, and there he was! He actually overtook me, on my right, nearly wiping me out…so terribly close… I was rather shaken by this. The turnoff I’d taken was incorrect…turned back onto the N8, then took R709 turnoff, through Tweespruit to Excelsior. TweespruitTweespruit ExcelsiorExcelsior The R703 to Clocolan…lovely scenery. R703 from Excelsior to Clocolan - 1R703 from Excelsior to Clocolan - 1 R703 from Excelsior to Clocolan - 2R703 from Excelsior to Clocolan - 2 R703 from Excelsior to Clocolan - 3R703 from Excelsior to Clocolan - 3 R703 from Excelsior to Clocolan - 4R703 from Excelsior to Clocolan - 4 ClocolanClocolan Then back on the R26 through Ficksburg, to Fouriesburg…beautiful. R711 to Clarens…also beautiful. R26 from Clocolan to FicksburgR26 from Clocolan to Ficksburg R26 from Ficksburg to FouriesburgR26 from Ficksburg to Fouriesburg R711 from Fouriesburg to ClarensR711 from Fouriesburg to Clarens Arrived in Clarens just before 19:00. Phoned Corrie at Mont Rouge Guest House. I was told, once again, that from the following night, they were fully booked…but on this night, they had a number of vacancies. R150 bed only…very reasonable for Clarens, from what I’ve heard. The road to Mont Rouge was dirt, which I struggled with, as it was getting dark, quickly. After chatting with Corrie, I decided to walk to the main road to find a restaurant…riding was out of the question for me. Barrel & Beef…very good food, at very reasonable prices. The walk back was lovely, peaceful, and fairly chilly. --------------- Day Four : Thursday 20 March 2008 Distance : 510km Map for Day FourMap for Day Four Chris had made a suggestion…to ride through Golden Gate at sunrise. With this in mind, I rose early, and left Mont Rouge at 06:00. My bike was in need of fuel…would the petrol station be open at this hour? No… the garage was closed. I was so disappointed in myself for not filling up the night before…I had stuffed up the plan! Just as I was about to phone Neil, to inform him of the delay, a truck driver, also waiting for fuel, told me he’d just spoken to a fellow truck driver who had found another garage open. Very pleased, I followed his directions, filled up, and was finally on my way. ClarensClarens Leaving ClarensLeaving Clarens 17km from Clarens to the entrance to Golden Gate. The friendly gate-keeper took down my name and bike’s registration…there is no entry fee. Didn’t consider that I’d be riding with direct sunlight regularly blinding me :-(…but the position of the sun did cause glorious highlights and shadows. :-) The 30km of Golden Gate is a stretch of non-stop beauty. Golden Gate Highlands National Park - 1Golden Gate Highlands National Park - 1 Golden Gate - 2: Lichens PassGolden Gate - 2: Lichens Pass Golden Gate - 3Golden Gate - 3 Golden Gate - 4Golden Gate - 4 Golden Gate - 5Golden Gate - 5 Golden Gate - 6Golden Gate - 6 Golden Gate - 7Golden Gate - 7 Golden Gate - 8Golden Gate - 8 With the exit in sight, I turned around…back to Clarens for breakfast. The ride back…just as glorious…and no blinding sunlight. I returned to Barrel & Beef…their pancakes are the best ever! Being Easter weekend, I thought I’d better confirm accommodation for that evening…so I phoned Mountain Park Hotel in Bulwer. Once again in luck, I made a booking for dinner and bed for R245. A buffet dinner at 19:00…I was certain I’d arrive way before 19:00…if not, they would keep food for me. R712 back through Golden Gate, and on to Harrismith. HarrismithHarrismith Just outside Harrismith: There are many of these flowers in and around the town.Just outside Harrismith: There are many of these flowers in and around the town. Left Harrismith, then took the R74 over Oliviershoek Pass (so lush and green), where I stumbled across Little Switzerland. René had told me to look out for this place, but I had forgotten…fortunately, it cannot be missed. Driekloof Dam: Somewhere between Harrismith and Oliviershoek Pass.Driekloof Dam: Somewhere between Harrismith and Oliviershoek Pass. Oliviershoek Pass: On the R74Oliviershoek Pass: On the R74 Little Switzerland - 1Little Switzerland - 1 Little Switzerland - 2Little Switzerland - 2 Pulled into the parking area…where a 1200GS was parked…will these be friendly motorcyclists?...Yes :-), Coenie and Ansie welcomed me to their table, where we chatted for some time. From JHB, they were on their way to camp for the weekend. Little Switzerland - 3: Coenie and Ansie.Little Switzerland - 3: Coenie and Ansie. We left together, riding along the R74, until they took the R600 turnoff, just before Winterton. I continued on the R74, then the R103 to Estcourt. I did not enjoy Estcourt…a very busy town. When trying to speak to the locals, I was ignored…they did not seem to understand a word I was saying, didn’t even try to. The petrol attendant was super friendly and could speak English…she was the first of many lady petrol attendants to follow. From Estcourt, continued on the R103 to Mooi River…quite different to Estcourt. :-) Stopped for lunch at the Wimpy. R103 - Just after exiting Mooi RiverR103 - Just after exiting Mooi River Continued on R103 through Rosetta and Nottingham Road, and on to Howick. R103 - Somewhere near Nottingham Road / Rosetta - 1R103 - Somewhere near Nottingham Road / Rosetta - 1 R103 - Somewhere near Nottingham Road / Rosetta - 2R103 - Somewhere near Nottingham Road / Rosetta - 2 R103 - Somewhere near Nottingham Road / Rosetta - 3R103 - Somewhere near Nottingham Road / Rosetta - 3 R103 - Between Nottingham Road and Howick.R103 - Between Nottingham Road and Howick. In Howick, it was completely overcast, with not much daylight left…rain jacket, change of visor, and a quick look at the beautiful Howick Falls…then push on to Bulwer. Howick Falls - 1Howick Falls - 1 Howick Falls - 2Howick Falls - 2 R617 - Soon after leaving Howick - 1R617 - Soon after leaving Howick - 1 R617 - Soon after leaving Howick - 2R617 - Soon after leaving Howick - 2 Just a short distance from Howick, I could see I was approaching heavy mist and certain darkness, soon…but didn’t realize just how dense that mist would be. Up until Boston…a solid wall of mist. From Boston it eased off momentarily. This whole section, from Howick to Bulwer, is exactly 80km…it took me two and a quarter hours to ride, most of which was spent in absolute fear. :-( I had even considered spending the night on the side of the road…but realized I would probably freeze, so I took my chances on the road. Couldn’t see road surface…would there be any potholes? The direction of road kept changing. I came up behind a car, and used it’s tail-lights to guide me…in using these, I rode REALLY uncomfortably close. What made matters worse, my speedometer / odometer light doesn’t work, so I had no idea when this ghastly experience would end…it felt like walking down an unfamiliar staircase in pitch-darkness, not knowing where the last step would be. Rode through a small town…was that Bulwer? I had seen no signs…either there weren’t any, or they just weren’t visible through the mist. Considered doing a U-turn…this would be possible suicide, no visibility in front or behind, so I decided to continue until I reached a safer spot to turn back. A distance later…still not safe to turn back. Then…a sign…’Bulwer’…couldn’t believe it, I had made it! I managed to find Mountain Park Hotel, off a dirt road. Completely exhausted and not able to see clearly, I came close to dropping the bike a number of times. Once inside the hotel, I checked the time…19:15… Debbie at reception, “You made it in time for dinner”…I felt too exhausted to want to eat…my body was aching, I just wanted to sleep. I got changed, and feeling slightly better, went down for dinner. The food was very good, but I managed to eat very little. Before falling face down in my plate, I went to bed. -------------- Day Five : Friday 21 March 2008 Distance : 389km Map for Day FiveMap for Day Five I woke up feeling much better…well rested. Left Bulwer at 06:00, took the R617 to Underberg. I think this was where I had breakfast, not sure…but I AM certain it was a Wimpy breakfast.:-) Phoned Roleen, at Declan’s B&B in Maclear, to make a booking for that evening…bed and breakfast…R320 (If I’m not mistaken). Roleen warned me that I would have to stop in the town before Maclear, to get something to eat, as being Good Friday, ALL the shops in Maclear were closed. R617 - Between Bulwer and Kokstad - 1R617 - Between Bulwer and Kokstad - 1 R617 - Between Bulwer and Kokstad - 2R617 - Between Bulwer and Kokstad - 2 R617 - Between Bulwer and Kokstad - 3R617 - Between Bulwer and Kokstad - 3 R617 - Between Bulwer and Kokstad - 4R617 - Between Bulwer and Kokstad - 4 R617 - Between Bulwer and Kokstad - 5R617 - Between Bulwer and Kokstad - 5 R617 - Between Bulwer and Kokstad - 6R617 - Between Bulwer and Kokstad - 6 From there, continued on the R617 through Franklin to Kokstad. From Kokstad, took the N2 towards Umtata…so beautifully green. N2 - Between Kokstad and R396 Turnoff - 1N2 - Between Kokstad and R396 Turnoff - 1 N2 - Between Kokstad and R396 Turnoff - 2N2 - Between Kokstad and R396 Turnoff - 2 N2 - Between Kokstad and R396 Turnoff - 3N2 - Between Kokstad and R396 Turnoff - 3 N2 - Between Kokstad and R396 Turnoff - 4N2 - Between Kokstad and R396 Turnoff - 4 N2 - Between Kokstad and R396 Turnoff - 5N2 - Between Kokstad and R396 Turnoff - 5 N2 - Between Kokstad and R396 Turnoff - 6N2 - Between Kokstad and R396 Turnoff - 6 N2 - Between Kokstad and R396 Turnoff - 7N2 - Between Kokstad and R396 Turnoff - 7 N2 - Between Kokstad and R396 Turnoff - 8N2 - Between Kokstad and R396 Turnoff - 8 The Road to Shawbury (somewhere off the N2) - 1: I came across this road...looked so inviting...so I rode it. This child was so excited to have his photo taken.The Road to Shawbury (somewhere off the N2) - 1: I came across this road...looked so inviting...so I rode it. This child was so excited to have his photo taken. The Road to Shawbury (somewhere off the N2) - 2The Road to Shawbury (somewhere off the N2) - 2 The Road to Shawbury (somewhere off the N2) - 3The Road to Shawbury (somewhere off the N2) - 3 The Road to Shawbury (somewhere off the N2) - 4The Road to Shawbury (somewhere off the N2) - 4 The Road to Shawbury (somewhere off the N2) - 5The Road to Shawbury (somewhere off the N2) - 5 The Road to Shawbury (somewhere off the N2) - 6The Road to Shawbury (somewhere off the N2) - 6 38km before Umtata, I turned onto the R396, which starts off through Tsolo. R396 - Tsolo - 1R396 - Tsolo - 1 R396 - Tsolo - 2R396 - Tsolo - 2 R396 - Between Tsolo and Maclear - 1R396 - Between Tsolo and Maclear - 1 R396 - Between Tsolo and Maclear - 2R396 - Between Tsolo and Maclear - 2 R396 - Between Tsolo and Maclear - 3R396 - Between Tsolo and Maclear - 3 R396 - Between Tsolo and Maclear - 4R396 - Between Tsolo and Maclear - 4 R396 - Between Tsolo and Maclear - 5R396 - Between Tsolo and Maclear - 5 R396 - Between Tsolo and Maclear - 6R396 - Between Tsolo and Maclear - 6 R396 - Between Tsolo and Maclear - 7R396 - Between Tsolo and Maclear - 7 I continued on the R396 into Maclear…where was the town where I was supposed to stop for food? I hadn’t seen any suitable town. :-( MaclearMaclear I was directed to Declan’s B&B by some children. Roleen showed me to my room…lovely, absolutely perfect! Declan's B&B - 1Declan's B&B - 1 Declan's B&B - 2Declan's B&B - 2 It was +-14:00, and I was hungry. Roleen suggested I try the garage, maybe their little shop would be open…it was. The shop was tiny, with not much available. I took two small bar ones, two small crunchies, two small packets of Simba Sour Cream & Onion, and a small long life milk. Once back at Declan's, I made a cup of coffee, to have with my chocolates. One bite of Crunchie, and I knew something was wrong…expired; second Crunchie…the same; the milk…also expired; both Bar Ones were good; chips were good. The milk tasted fine, so I wasn’t too worried, but the texture of the Crunchies was so awful, I just wouldn’t eat them. Was very hungry by the time I went to bed. :-( Thunder and lightning during the night…what would tomorrow bring? ---------------- Day Six : Saturday 22 March 2008 Distance : 676km Map for Day SixMap for Day Six The weather had cleared, it was to be a hot day. Waxed bike’s chain, and checked tyre pressures. After a lovely breakfast, Roleen offered rain water, from a tank, to fill my camelback. Chatting with Roleen, we discovered why I had not come across a town for food, the previous day…she had assumed I’d travelled on the R56 from Kokstad to Maclear, and I had assumed she knew which route I’d taken.:-) She then questioned why I had not taken the R56, as it was, in her opinion, far more scenic. Not wanting to miss out on ANY beautiful scenery, I made the decision to ride the R56 back to Kokstad, return to Maclear, also via the R56, before starting the planned route for the day. After an oil check, I left Maclear at +-8:30. I came across a boulder in the road…I would take a photo on my way back. Soon after this, there were cows in the road. R56 - Soon after leaving Maclear. - 1R56 - Soon after leaving Maclear. - 1 R56 - Soon after leaving Maclear. - 2R56 - Soon after leaving Maclear. - 2 On through Mount Fletcher to Matatiele…a lovely, clean town, with a golf course. R56 - Matatiele - 1R56 - Matatiele - 1 R56 - Matatiele - 2R56 - Matatiele - 2 Through Cedarville to Kokstad. Turned around to head back to Maclear. KokstadKokstad The R56 really has a good road surface, and sweeping bends. As for scenery…yes, beautiful, but given the choice for scenery alone, my original route to Maclear, via the N2 and R396, is far more beautiful, in my opinion, and René’s, I assume. :-) Somewhere between Kokstad and Cedarville, a large, dark green 4x4 pulled right over, encouraging me to pass him. He then proceeded to chase me. We were doing 160 km/h and he was still sitting too close to me. I’m not sure if he was trying to cause trouble, or simply wanting to see what speed the bike was capable of....I did NOT wish to find out....thought the best would be to lose him. I increased speed, to what must have been 190/195 km/h (not too sure, as this is off the clock). I lost him....problem gone. As I was concerned about time, I decided to push on without lunch. R56 - Returning to Maclear: The boulder had been moved.R56 - Returning to Maclear: The boulder had been moved. Back in Maclear - 1Back in Maclear - 1 Back in Maclear - 2Back in Maclear - 2 Was back in Maclear at 13:15 from Maclear, I continued on the R56 to Elliot…it was now raining. R56 - Ugie - 1R56 - Ugie - 1 R56 - Ugie - 2R56 - Ugie - 2 R56 - Just after Ugie en route to Elliot.R56 - Just after Ugie en route to Elliot. R56 - Somewhere between Ugie and Elliot - 1R56 - Somewhere between Ugie and Elliot - 1 R56 - Somewhere between Ugie and Elliot - 2R56 - Somewhere between Ugie and Elliot - 2 R56 - ElliotR56 - Elliot From Elliot to Barkly East via Barkly Pass and the R58…intermittent rain. Barkly Pass - 1Barkly Pass - 1 Barkly Pass - 2Barkly Pass - 2 Barkly Pass - 3Barkly Pass - 3 R58 - Between Barkly Pass and Barkly East.R58 - Between Barkly Pass and Barkly East. Barkly EastBarkly East From there, continued on the R58 to Lady Grey. Kraai River Pass - Between Barkly East and Lady GreyKraai River Pass - Between Barkly East and Lady Grey Somewhere between Kraai River Pass and Lady Grey - 1Somewhere between Kraai River Pass and Lady Grey - 1 Somewhere between Kraai River Pass and Lady Grey - 2Somewhere between Kraai River Pass and Lady Grey - 2 Lady Grey - 1Lady Grey - 1 Lady Grey - 2: I tried from all angles to get a pic of 'Lady Grey' on the mountain side, but the tree was in the way.Lady Grey - 2: I tried from all angles to get a pic of 'Lady Grey' on the mountain side, but the tree was in the way. It was now 16:20 and I was finally on my way to Aliwal North. Once in Aliwal North, I had to find accommodation…no problem, by 17:15 I had settled in at Marilyn’s B&B…R250 for bed and breakfast. I had been welcomed by Henriette, who takes care of the place, while Marilyn’s away. Marilyn's B&B - 1Marilyn's B&B - 1 Marilyn's B&B - 2Marilyn's B&B - 2 Marilyn's B&B - 3Marilyn's B&B - 3 Marilyn's B&B - 4Marilyn's B&B - 4 While taking care of payment, I suddenly felt faint and light headed…I had not taken in enough water during the day, and NO lunch had not helped matters. I had to lie down before searching for dinner. I left my leathers at Marilyn’s, and rode to the Spur in my jeans and rain jacket. It rained while I ate…got onto a very wet seat. During dinner I had decided that the following night, would be a good night to stay at Bloemhof Farm…so once back at Marilyn’s, I gave Walter a call. He seemed very pleased to hear from me, and plans were made for me to stay with them. Another successful day…I went to bed pleased. :-) --------------- Day Seven : Sunday 23 March 2008 Distance : 364km Map for Day SevenMap for Day Seven I woke up to a beautifully clear day. My bike’s gear lever had been a bit stiff, so I lubricated it with chain wax…this sorted out the problem. Had breakfast at 07:30, while chatting with Henriette. I’m not sure what time I left, but it was just after breakfast. Rode from Aliwal North to Burgersdorp via the R58. BurgersdorpBurgersdorp It was now 09:10. Took the R391 until I reached the R56…was a bit confused here, as I thought the R391 would continue straight across the R56, but it did not. Had to turn left onto the R56…just a short stretch, then saw the R391 to Hofmeyr. I then discovered that the road was dirt. It didn’t look bad, and I simply felt like a bit of off-road…62km didn’t sound so far.:-) If the road does deteriorate, I’ll turn back. Neil was aware which route I would be taking, but he did not know that it was dirt…I decided not to tell him until after, in case he tried to talk me out of it.:-) R391 to HofmeyrR391 to Hofmeyr I stopped a few times to take photos. There was even a little pass. R391 to Hofmeyr - 2R391 to Hofmeyr - 2 R391 to Hofmeyr - 3R391 to Hofmeyr - 3 R391 to Hofmeyr - 4R391 to Hofmeyr - 4 R391 Groot Doornhoek PassR391 Groot Doornhoek Pass R391 to Hofmeyr - 5R391 to Hofmeyr - 5 R391 to Hofmeyr - 6R391 to Hofmeyr - 6 R391 to Hofmeyr - 7R391 to Hofmeyr - 7 R391 to Hofmeyr - 8R391 to Hofmeyr - 8 R396 to Hofmeyr - 9R396 to Hofmeyr - 9 R391 to Hofmeyr - 10R391 to Hofmeyr - 10 When I eventually realized that this off-road stuff would take me quite a while, I tried to phone Neil, in case he got worried…no cell reception. At this point, I thought I’d better get a move on…no more photos. The road got a little more difficult for a stretch, but then turned into a lovely smooth surface for quite a distance…the rest of the way into Hofmeyr. I kept picking up speed until the bike reached just over 100km/h…She handled really well, I was so impressed. Could feel her moving around on the road, but this didn’t concern me, as I expected this. I arrived in Hofmeyr just after 11:00, checked the bike over…all fine. Left Hofmeyr on the R390 to Cradock. This is where I had ANOTHER Wimpy meal…and it was so good. CradockCradock After lunch, I went to fill up with petrol… the tank would NOT open. After trying and trying, and nearly giving up, the tank eventually opened. Since the repair, I had noticed that it hadn’t opened/closed as smoothly as before, but this was the first time it was really stuck. I took the R61 towards Nieu-Bethesda. R61R61 R61 - Wapadsberg PassR61 - Wapadsberg Pass Then turned left onto the N9 towards Graaff-Reinet. N9 - Naudésberg PassN9 - Naudésberg Pass Bloemhof Farm is +-27km from Graaff-Reinet. There’s a 5km dirt road leading onto the farm, with a few cattle grids along the way. I must have arrived there at about 14:00. BloemhofBloemhof Bloemhof - 2Bloemhof - 2 Bloemhof - 3Bloemhof - 3 Bloemhof Homestead EntranceBloemhof Homestead Entrance Bloemhof Homestead - 1Bloemhof Homestead - 1 Bloemhof Homestead - 2Bloemhof Homestead - 2 I was greeted by Walter, and shown where to park my bike. Bloemhof: My bike was given a place of honour...on the stoep.Bloemhof: My bike was given a place of honour...on the stoep. After greeting Ann, Walter showed me to my room. I was then introduced to Lucky and his daughter, Natalie… Lucky has been hunting with Walter since the 70’s. We had lunch…yes, my second lunch…this was even better than Wimpy:-)…veggies and some form of game meat. Julian (Walter and Ann’s son) was not there, and would only arrive home in the evening. After lunch Walter, Ann, Lucky, and Natalie had an afternoon nap. Ann had told me that I was welcome to take a walk on the farm, as I pleased…I did so. I was joined on my walk, by Trudy (Walter’s dog) and Krico (Julian’s dog). Krico (Julian's dog...a Kelpie)Krico (Julian's dog...a Kelpie) Bloemhof Homestead Garden - 1Bloemhof Homestead Garden - 1 Bloemhof Homestead Garden - 2Bloemhof Homestead Garden - 2 Bloemhof Homestead Garden - 3Bloemhof Homestead Garden - 3 Bloemhof Homestead Garden - 4Bloemhof Homestead Garden - 4 Bloemhof Homestead Garden - 5Bloemhof Homestead Garden - 5 Views from around Bloemhof Homestead - 1Views from around Bloemhof Homestead - 1 Views from around Bloemhof Homestead - 2Views from around Bloemhof Homestead - 2 Views from around Bloemhof Homestead - 3Views from around Bloemhof Homestead - 3 Views from around Bloemhof Homestead - 4Views from around Bloemhof Homestead - 4 Views from around Bloemhof Homestead - 5Views from around Bloemhof Homestead - 5 At +-17:30, the five of us (well, seven including Trudy and Krico) took the bakkie around the farm…our dinner was to be a picnic, by firelight. Our drive to the picnic spot - 1Our drive to the picnic spot - 1 Our drive to the picnic spot - 2Our drive to the picnic spot - 2 Our drive to the picnic spot - 3Our drive to the picnic spot - 3 Our drive to the picnic spot - 4Our drive to the picnic spot - 4 Our drive to the picnic spot - 5Our drive to the picnic spot - 5 Our drive to the picnic spot - 6Our drive to the picnic spot - 6 Our drive to the picnic spot - 7Our drive to the picnic spot - 7 Our drive to the picnic spot - 8Our drive to the picnic spot - 8 Our drive to the picnic spot - 9Our drive to the picnic spot - 9 We reached our picnic spot, a river-bed, nearing sunset. Walter and Lucky started a fire. Ann’s home made burger patties were then fried in a pan over hot coals. Burgers, salad, Muskadel, a beautiful setting, and great company…what more could I ask for? It was dark, very dark, and still (not a breath of wind). Our picnic spot - 1Our picnic spot - 1 Our picnic spot - 2Our picnic spot - 2 Our picnic fireOur picnic fire We waited for the moon to rise before we left…it provided plenty of light. On the drive back, Ann shone a spotlight for us to see small creatures, including hares, along the way. On our return to the house, we were greeted by Julian…just as welcoming as his parents. After coffee/tea we went to bed…yet another special day. --------------- Day Eight : Monday 24 March 2008 Distance : 721km After breakfast, Lucky and Natalie left Bloemhof for Cape Town. Walter and Ann left shortly after this, to return to their home in Graaff-Reinet. Peacock: One of the three I'd seen around the house.Peacock: One of the three I'd seen around the house. Farm Cat: Possibly one of the farm worker's cats.Farm Cat: Possibly one of the farm worker's cats. Julian kindly agreed to take me on a short tour of the farm. I was specifically interested in seeing the cattle. We took Julian’s bakkie. First the sheep, then the cattle…Nguni, Suffolk, and a cross between the two. SheepSheep Cattle - 1Cattle - 1 Cattle - 2Cattle - 2 Cattle - 3Cattle - 3 Cattle - 4Cattle - 4 We then stopped at a field of Agave. These plants are used to make Agava…a drink similar to Tequila. The first plants were planted on the farm in the 1840’s. Agave: Julian planted this field of plants 7 or 8 years ago.Agave: Julian planted this field of plants 7 or 8 years ago. Mature AgaveMature Agave Agava: Made from AgaveAgava: Made from Agave There’s a primary school on the farm, which covers grades one to six. Julian is greatly interested in the school and its pupils. I was shown some of the old buildings on the property. A garage of yesteryear: This is where the Ox-Wagon was kept. Note the upper bricked section...a later addition.A garage of yesteryear: This is where the Ox-Wagon was kept. Note the upper bricked section...a later addition. Old Farm House: Walter and Ann had stayed in this house, before moving into the main Homestead. Walter's parents also occupied this house for some time. The house has been standing vacant for +-30 years, and is now in the process of being renovated.Old Farm House: Walter and Ann had stayed in this house, before moving into the main Homestead. Walter's parents also occupied this house for some time. The house has been standing vacant for +-30 years, and is now in the process of being renovated. Then back to the main house for cooldrinks. This was when I made the decision to ride home. It was +- 12:00, so I should arrive at about 19:00, or so I thought. I checked tyre pressures and said goodbye to Julian. Rode the 5km dirt road back to the N9. Turned onto the N9 and headed towards Graaff-Reinet. Continued through Graaff-Reinet on to Aberdeen. Graaff-ReinetGraaff-Reinet From Aberdeen, the R61 to Beaufort West. Lunch…my last Wimpy meal of the trip. :-) Neil phoned me, in response to my sms…he and Pete were in Matjiesfontein…they would wait for me. Finished my meal, and paid. I made an attempt to open the tank, to fill up…stuck! AGAIN! I hadn’t been expecting a problem, as I had filled up since the last time, with no problem. The tank was so hot, that I burnt my thumb on it, causing a blister. This was when I realized that the heat must be causing some expansion of something or somewhere, jamming it. Both times this occurred on a hot day, when the bike had been sitting in full sun. The petrol attendants were trying to take control, and about to force the tank open…I had to chase them away. I thought about it, and decided to pour cold water over the tank to cool it down, and a few seconds later it opened without difficulty…such relief. Finally on my way, I took the N1 to Leeu-Gamka, where I topped up the tank…no problem. N1 to Laingsburg, where I topped up again. Then the last 27km to Matjiesfontein. When I arrived, Neil and Pete were getting kitted-up, about to come looking for me…apparently I had taken much longer than expected. :-( We sat and chatted about our trips over cooldrinks. Neil and Pete endured the first slide show of many. :-) The reunion at Matjiesfontein.The reunion at Matjiesfontein. We left together for home. By the time we reached Worcester, it was dark. We decided to stop in Durbanville for dinner. It was now +-21:00. After dinner, Pete headed home, and Neil and I headed home to Milnerton. .............................THE END..........................

Comments

Padlangs (not verified)
You TEASE, such a nice read, ..... where is the rest. Jane, I wish I had a camera last night - your face told the WHOLE story. We are so glad you had a good trip. Looking at the picture of the church in Aberdeen I remember how difficult it is to get a picture of it ALL. It is the tallest steeple in the whole of SA. Did you go to the ONLY restaurant in Aberdeen? LOVELY place, good food (even Rene would approve of the price), all kinds of "goodies". THEE (only) restaurant in AberdeenTHEE (only) restaurant in Aberdeen Goodies on the insideGoodies on the inside
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Welcome home, but tell us more. Ignore opinions, heed facts. Feet on the pegs, always.

Think before you ink.

Trust is the most valuable asset.

I have the rest of my life to get old.

Jane's picture
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I'm sorry Chris, René, but this is going to take a while...will try my best to complete as soon as possible. I'm just really busy with other things at the moment, as well :-( Chris, yes, I also struggled to get the WHOLE church in the pic...but as you can see, eventually managed :-) No, I did not go to the restaurant...had no need, as I was spoilt with home cooked meals. I've just posted an update - day two.
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Jane, I think you've really put the men to shame with your trip, and especially the luggage carried on the back (being small has it's advantages). Can't wait for the next exciting episode, and also when Rommel is straight again so that I can get out onto the winding road. Buddy Out there where we all belong.
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wow inspiring
Neil Terry's picture
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Yes Buddy, one of my jeans is three pairs for her spacewise!
Jane's picture
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Joined: 2007/10/30
Buddy, Flipper...thank you. :-) Without the encouragement and support from a certain person, I'm not so sure that I would have gone ahead with this kind of trip.
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Joined: 2007/09/11
Jane, outstanding. This is why most of us buy bikes, but many never get to doing it! Very brave too ... no not the ride (that's a given), I'm talking about actually including a few photos with you in them!!! Well done. ''The world needs dreamers that DO!''

If you can dream it you can do it!

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Joined: 2007/06/22
Thanks Jane. Wonderfull report and thanks for all the photos. Great to see those roads again. Looking forward to the rest of your report. Andyman Yup that's me. Standing up in the traffic on the 1150GSA.

Andyman
Anyone can ride a bike fast....   But can you ride your bike real slow???

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Joined: 2007/06/17
Jane - I can't wait to read the rest! You've certainly given us all some wunderlust! Keep going on your fantastic trip report.
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Joined: 2008/02/29
Hi Jane Your great post has played a part in me making up my mind and going ahead with the purchase of a road bike. A reminder that there are beautiful parts of the country that can be reached without bundu bashing! Kudos for tackling it alone! Looking forward to the next instalment. Thanks Frank
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Jane, It is such a pity that the last section was in the mist and darkness, it too is sooo beautiful, but hey, it is a darn good excuse to go back to the area and do it in day light. Then you can also tackle Sani Pass on a quad, that was Jeans highlight of that trip. Your photographs are stunning, have you considered free lancing? The report isss, wellll shall I say GREAT, thanks but tell us more, tell me more. Ignore opinions, heed facts. Feet on the pegs, always.

Think before you ink.

Trust is the most valuable asset.

I have the rest of my life to get old.

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Yes Pete, my thoughts exactly, these were the only two photos with me in them...and were only taken through Neil's suggestion. Andy, only a pleasure...the photos keep the memory vivid...plenty more to come. Annie, thanks,...maybe you would like to join me on next year's trip? Frank, go for it...a road bike does not restrict you to tar anyway. :-) René, thank you. I have not forgotten Sani Pass, will definitely be in my future plans. Photography...well, Neil will tell you that it's his fantastic camera, not the photographer. :-) In truth, with scenery like this, how is it possible to take a bad photo? Just updated with Day Five.
PeterO's picture
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Joined: 2007/09/11
The photos look soooo much better on the computer than on the small camera screen. Really enjoying riding with you from the armchair. Going to go and make some tea and eat cookies ... the crunchie story reminds me I hate going to bed hungry :-( Thanks! ''The world needs dreamers that DO!''

If you can dream it you can do it!

Annie's picture
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''"Annie, thanks,...maybe you would like to join me on next year's trip?"'' Wow - what an invitation - I would LOVE to if the dates work out!
Neil Terry's picture
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Hi Frank, yes there is plenty of really beautiful touring to be had via tar roads, and if needed the bike can do light gravel roads. And just as in food ...if you feel it's a little bland, you can add some curry powder, salt, pepper or tabasco, a little twist of the throttle can quickly liven up a section of road or a corner!;-) I didn't respond sooner as I haven't read all of the posts as I've had the oral version...not as condensed;-):-)
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"I've had the oral version...not as condensed" Ha Ha! Neil, you are a very brave man indeed! :-)
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Joined: 2007/09/25
Great report Jane. So when are you going to start arranging road tours??

Committee: Ride Captain

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Jane, you are so right the R396 is possibly the most stunning section of scenery I have ever ridden, Tx for the wonderful post and pic's, certainly brings back great memories. Ignore opinions, heed facts. Feet on the pegs, always.

Think before you ink.

Trust is the most valuable asset.

I have the rest of my life to get old.

Padlangs (not verified)
Jane THANKS. It is such a nice feeling actually recognising some of those scenes. It brings back such nice memories. We DO have a beautiful country!!!! It will take some time for me to accumulate some leave - but we will be doing this again!! Hopefully by September.
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Joined: 2008/04/03
Hi Jane Your fantastic trip report and photo's have finally motivated me to become an active member of the forum and not just a "reader". Loved every minute of your trip as Dave and I have travelled many of the roads that you used while living in the Free State and Eastern Cape. We have always talked about one day doing a trip round SA to visit all the places that we have stayed in - that would be about 7 towns in all from Cape Town to Tzaneen. The plan is to one day buy a demo model and then take lots of leave and just keep on riding. So glad you are back safe and sound!!!!
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Dianne H - what an honour having you join us - it's about time!! Welcome. Johan de Jager Live the BMW lifestyle !!

Johan de Jager "It's all about the ride, nothing else"

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Joined: 2008/04/03
Thanks Johan! Enjoyed unpacking the box of goodies Greg brought home last night!!! Thanks a million. Di
Jane's picture
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Finally finished! It's taken me far longer to complete the report of the trip, than the trip itself. :-) The trip was incredible, and the trip report has been a wonderful way to re-visit the memories. My thanks again to Chris and Greta, René and Jean, for the planning; Pete for the loan of his GPS, and his support. A big thank you to Neil for making it all possible. :-)
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Geoff and Di, thank you for your kind words. Geoff, I had not even considered it, until now. Di, it's good to see you on The Forum. I look forward to reading your and Dave's trip report, in the near future. :-)
Padlangs (not verified)
Jane we are so glad that you enjoyed the trip !! I am particularly happy that you are back SAFE. Potholes, rain, animals in the road, etc. all add up. And still you are a reminder to all of us that often we spend too much time pondering what can go wrong - so much so that we end up not enjoying this beautifull country of ours. I am currently looking at the maps to figure out where Greta and I will be going end April beginning May, to make the most of the 9 day break. Reading your story and watching your pictures just boosted my planning !! :)
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Joined: 2007/06/21
Thanks for sharing a great experience with us. Congratulations on doing it - we are very proud of you, and you should be proud of yourself as well. Writing up a trip report takes a long time, but is very rewarding. Especially if you read it long time after. Wonderful how one relives tiny detail that you had forgotten and suddenly remember.