Montagu - Lesotho border: My first long distance solo trip

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For more pics on this trip, visit my blog at:  www.biking2nowhere.com

'Four wheels may move the body...but two wheels move the soul.'

My biggest fear is that one day I will look back on my life and wish I had done more. Experienced more. Lived more.  That I will regret the things I did NOT do, rather than those attempted and failed.

 

The idea is that I will travel this country, on my BMW GS650 – called Wedwo - till there is not a road left to see and not a spot left to visit. If it takes me the rest of my life, I will be happy doing so! So I took on a trip I have anticipated for ages. Alone (most of the way). This trip was going to happen mid Oct, but I changed it so that I could attend the Wild Dog Bash. It’s the country wide get together of other off road enthusiasts. The Bash was held at Snow Valley (near Rhodes/Barkley East) in the Eastern Cape.

You don’t stop riding because you’re getting old, but you get old when you stop riding.

 Up before lightUp before light

Day 1:

I was up shortly after 5 to start packing. The reason? Well, the previous night when I was (what I thought) done packing, I still had a ton of stuff that would not fit in the luggage. Since I had not gone to sleep before 3.30 the previous morning, I decided to try and get some early shut eye and figure things out in the morning.

                                    Too much luggageToo much luggage

After repacking the bag twice – now only 3 shirts for two weeks, (but I can get them washed halfway), I decided to load another bag on the back. Must admit I am not sure I feel so comfortable with the thought of my luggage so high, but it’s all I can do for now. (So anyone reading this and have soft panniers they want to sell, please let me know!!).

 HuisrivierpasHuisrivierpas

I got away an hour later than I planned, as I tied and re-tied my luggage several times. The extra bag meant I had to off-load, and scratch in my top box for the spare strap. Fortunately this happened, as I realized then that my top box could not be opened while other things were tied to the back. But genius that I am, I made a plan and it (sorta) worked for the moment!

                                      Chinese LanternChinese Lantern

It was a glorious day. I had a wonderful time driving past orchards in full bloom and dams full for the first time in quite a while. I have never seen this part of the country so green. The fact that I could stop anywhere I please and take pics as much as I wanted, really appealed to me.

 Bee AttackBee Attack

I met up in Oudshoorn with a friend, who said that I should shout, any                                                    Cloud cover time I had a problem along the way, so that was quite a big relief to know help would come racing at my beck and call! From there I rode direction Langkloof. This road is parallel to the N2; obviously there was a lot of rain, since you see full dams and overflowing “wetlands” as far as you go. One literally rides between two mountain ranges. I had the Swartberg on my left and the Langeberg range to my right. Green pastures, cattle and sheep as far as the eye could see – OK, at least till where the mountains start! This is an incredibly beautiful area. Unfortunately my battery started dying on me, not to mention that the terribly strong wind from front/right was icy, so I did not stop much.

 CloudsClouds

I rode up a pass with exquisite views of the Langkloof and into the town of Uniondale, where I stayed for the night. Uniondale is best known for the ghost lady hitch hiker often seen along the road. Over all, the day was absolutely super! Nice weather to travel in and stunning views all the way! Wished I could have shared it with someone …                                      Apple blossoms at sunsetApple blossoms at sunset

"S[he] knows not where [s]he's going,
For the road will decide -
It's not the destination....
....it's the glory of the ride!

Day 2

I loved the ride through the Langkloof and cannot fathom why we do not take this route more often? It is not only a genuinely good, smooth road, but one rides all down the kloof, with the two mountain ranges on either side of you. Never broader than a km or 2, the road hugs one of the two sides constantly, giving an amazing feeling of closeness, yet far enough away to enjoy the beauty. As a fruit growing region, one is constantly reminded about it by the masses of orchards in full bloom. And when not that, then the lush green fields with sheep and cattle and plenty of dams and rivers. I was in awe of the spectacular beauty of this region!

 R62R62

In spite of being advised to turn back to the N2 at Kareedow, I opted for the quieter road on to Humansdorp. I met up with a friend in Louterwater. She encouraged me to take the other route and I am so thankful for that! From Humansdorp I got the wind from behind – Yeahhh!! After a bite to eat and some fuel for Wedwo (and yes, he is a male, not female!), I got directions to Jeffrey bay. I skirted the sea a little, but everything is built up along the coastline.

                                      Stunning roadStunning road

Take me away
Take me away

                                                 Care to join me?                                          Care  to join me?

Then I took the R102 – an old road I was told is not in good shape and out of the way. A bit icky they said – Now what better words to use to encourage a girl like me?! And guess what? The highlight of my day!! Awesomeness I have not encountered for a while. The road starts off through the farms; you cross a single lane bridge and hit the short, sharp bends of the Van Stadens Pass. Ohh boy, was it stunning! Typical ever green Tsitsikamma vegetation, adding the mountains and then stretches of riding under a canopy of trees and Tarzan ropes – a site to behold!! Biker heaven and I am doing it again on my way back, come hell or high water!!Van StadensbrugVan Stadensbrug

 Single lane Gamtoos river bridgeSingle lane Gamtoos river bridge

In the end, I only did 30 km of National road - really glad we have such wonderful roads so close to the N2. I spent the night with a 2nd cousin in PE I have never met – how great was that?! We spent all evening chatting.

Sun settingSun setting

People are more violently opposed to fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than motorcyclists. - Alexei Sayle

 Day 3

By 8.30 I was on the road – meant to leave by 8am, but for some strange reason it takes me absolutely AGES to get all the luggage tied up and secured. After leaving PE there was quite a bit of road works.  PE absolutely lived up to its name – the windy city!

                                         BushmansriverBushmansriver

Hitting the coastal road up to East London was fantastic! Rolling green hills and vegetation typical of the Eastern Cape. And between the valleys and trees, a glimpse of the ocean now and again.

 Kenton-on-seaKenton-on-sea

I went in to Bushmansriver, as that is the area I remember visiting as a kid – my mom grew up there. Almost still looks like it did 40 years ago! Narrow roads, lined with lovely houses and beautiful gardens. If I were not living where I do today, THAT would be the town I would like to retire to! And the entrance has flowering bright red Coral trees on both sides of the road welcoming you!

Egiptian geeseEgiptian geese 

I met up with more cousins in Port Alfred, one I have not seen in almost 30 years!

The ride from Port Alfred was difficult due to not only potholes and animals on the road – I saw more trucks in the 150kms I rode there than all the way from Cape Town to Jhb!! Trucker’s highway!! Albeit that, a stunning road with twisting and winding hills closer to East London. A glorious ride for a twisties addict like myself.

                                       East LondonEast London

I have met up with my friend Abie and after we did some shopping, we sorting stuff, changed tyres and packed (and me – re packing of course!).  All was ready for the ride into the unknown the next day. As my heart thumps from nerves, I am beyond excited to see something new again. Most of the day will be on gravel and I have a heavy load, but I believe all will be well and there awaits another adventure on me!!

Yeehaaaa!! 

Sometimes it takes a whole tankful of fuel before you can think straight.

 Day 4

WOW!! I honestly don’t have the adequate English vocabulary to describe the awesomeness of this day!  I think it must have been the best biking I have ever done!

 

CiskeiCiskei

 

We started off in East London – once again later than planned as the fastening of everything just takes for ever! Thanks to Geoff helping Abie with an interesting route, within 30km we got off on a dirt road through farm land. The whole area has had a lot of rain and for quite a while I thought I was in the Circus. Twas sheer acrobatics staying on my bike, between dodging potholes and severe deep and sometimes wet ruts in the road! Not to mention the sheep, cattle and stray animals! At one moment we were in green grasslands, the next we were riding along a game farm and then riding through pines and blue gum trees!    

                                 The next hill     The next hill

 

I must admit that I had absolutely NO clue as to where we! We hit what looked similar to the Transkei rural area. Miles of rolling hills, little houses scattered along them and every kind of 4 legged animal strolling along (and in!) the road.  And many friendly locals delighted to see 2 bikes passing. Most of this riding was tedious, as potholes where everywhere, yet unexpected. Conditions of the gravel varied from very rocky, to potholes to severe ruts going on for miles at a time. Not to mention the graders – loosening up all the gravel and rocks and leaving them scattered to make riding a constant concentration. Albeit this, the scenery was to die for and the challenging ride right up my alley!

 Broken mud guardBroken mud guard

My first battle wounds I saw when we stopped for lunch. I mentioned I was worried my back break was not what it should be and then we discovered my mudguard had torn off and a piece was stuck in the break. This is a very common occurrence, and I have just been lucky mine has never come off in over 60 000km. Abie cut the loose end off, we duck-taped the other part and Bob’s your uncle, no worries! After sandwiches and Boerewors, we hit the road again. Parts of this area took us high into the mountains, climbing steep little twisty roads, and then having the most spectacular views down on the landscapes and rivers. Due to the distance we had to finish and narrow roads, unfortunately we could not stop too often for pics!

                                        Dust tracksDust tracks

The scenery once again started changing when we climbed higher and had much larger valleys to look down into. More trees, a huge dam and dangerous roads surfaces took us to Eliot where we refuelled. From there the varied scenery was once again something to be hold. We were getting terrible winds all day, but hitting the tar for a while, almost blew us off the bikes. We met up with other bikers for supper and coming from 4 different directions, all of them were talking about the wind! Then we started climbing the 13-kilometre Barkly Pass, 1990 meters at its summit. Rock formations are a magnificent display of mountain splendor. It is part of the southern Drakensberg; ... Barkly Pass is apparently the only one of the eight passes in the Eastern Cape that is tarred!?

 Abie having a lookAbie having a look

We got back onto the gravel for our last 80km to Rhodes. Once again a road scraper had turned a perfectly good road into a bikers nightmare, and there were times I was concerned my bike (or should I say me??) could not handle all the loose gravel and rocks. Fortunately not for too far. Twice we were met by sheep returning home, walking the entire breadth of the road and oblivious to our time constraints! Once again riding through farms, up masses of mountains and going through hairpin bends. At one place the road was covered in mud puddles and as I went through one, I caught a pothole and almost came down. Thankfully I managed to stay on top, but my bike and I was covered in mud! This last stretch was really tough, but also the most spectacular part of the trip for me. As we were reaching our last kms, the sun started changing the magnificent mountains in hues of pink and purple.

                                        After my mud puddlesAfter my mud puddles

Riding this trip today, I cannot but admire the handy work of a great God.   I am so thankful that I have had the opportunity to see this part of the world, in such a way – one really does experience it so much better on a bike!! I always say I live in the prettiest part of our country, but what I have seen today, confirms that South Africa cannot be beaten when it comes to the most stunning scenery! A sight to behold – once again!

 Make way!Make way!

I am knackered and glad I am not sleeping in my tent on the ground tonight! I had forgotten what hard work it is to keep a bike going when conditions are so difficult. Yet, every single km was worth it! I loved not only the scenery, but the challenge of a difficult road that was within my limits.

Almost sunset                 Almost sunset

I have seen, I have ridden, and I have conquered!

If you don't live on the edge, you take up too much space!!!

 Day 5

 The wind had been howling all day and night and by early evening a few drops fell.  I was concerned about rain, as wet gets dangerous. During the early hours of the morning, the rain started falling. Sleeping right in the top of a double story cottage with a corrugated iron roof, it sounded like the rain was hammering down. The wind had blown down a tree over the road 50 metres from us.

                                                          Crossing some waterCrossing some water

Getting outside, in spite of the rain, the roads were perfectly dry. Yeahhh!! Dark skies indicated there might be a lot more to come, so we decided to take the direct route to the Bash, so that we could get the tents pitched before the water came down. Although Rhodes was one of the cutest towns I have seen, with only gravel roads and kids playing in the tree-lined streets, they had no petrol. It is so remote and the road so tedious, that the petrol tankers just don’t come that way anymore and the locals have to drive 60km to Barkley East to fuel up.

Some rock formationsSome rock formations

We had a few drops along the way, but nothing serious. Once again a stunning ride up between the mountains, with lots of hairpin bends and stunning views. At on place we saw a canyon, not as deep, but looking similar to the Fish River canyon with stunning rock formations and crevices as far as you look.

                                        Almost a canyonAlmost a canyon

We arrived at Snow Valley just around lunch time and got the tents pitched in a howling wind. What a magnificent place?!! There was a huge open field that reminds one of a rugby field, surrounded by mountains, and Willows at the edge of one side, all along a little river. The “lawn” was all nice and green, in spite of it being the dry season. Walking up an (steep) hill, the main get-together area included huge tree stumps for seats and plenty of fires. Ablutions and a nice big hall with tables and chairs!! A fully stocked bar the fellows made good use of. We girls had 3 (hot) showers and 2 toilets. (Unsure what the guys have), in a corrugated iron “shed”. 

 Our little set-upOur little set-up

Most people underestimate these roads and the time it takes to travel them. The result was quite a few bikers arriving well after dark. I went down with my Montagu Muscadel, offered the cold guys a swig and helped pitch their tents.

                                        What a back-drop?!What a back-drop?!me 

We received a bright red Wild Dogs T-shirt and a braai pack for supper when we registered. Everyone got together inside and just visited and chatted – all bike related of course! At least I can go rattling on about bikes and routes and no one seems disturbed by it! 

 Mess hallMess hall

                                              Fires before the storm                              Fires before the storm

The food consisted of braai packs enough to feed 3 people!! My chicken pack had 2 thighs and drumsticks, a 400g piece of rib and a piece of sausage. My next night’s pack consists of 2 pieces of sausage and 3 pieces of lamb chops! Crazy right?! I had been lugging a 2L ice cream dish along (for our sandwiches the first day) and it was filled to the brim with food left from supper – enough to keep us going all day till the next supper!

 The rain            The rain

It started raining around 7pm. Hard rain and gusting winds made me less enthusiastic to head down to a cold tent and a hard bed. But my tummy was full; I had a good ride and met many new kindred spirits, all loving bikes and the open road. I am happy and content – and so fortunate I have the opportunity to share this experience with a few other people.

SunsetSunset

You can forget what you do for a living when your knees are in the breeze.

 Day 6

What a strange day! Between thunder and windstorms, I tried sleeping on a 2 inch mattress with rain beating down the tent. It rained really had all night and by 6am my back was too sore to lie any longer. With that, I heard Abie was up too, drenched to the bone! He had a much smaller tent with no extra covering and not only was every thing in his tent, but also his mattress and sleeping bag soaked. Thankfully I had a dry and warm night!

Lundeans Nek passLundeans Nek pass

Roads were way too wet to ride and everywhere cold and wet people started creeping out of tents. After a cloudy start, it cleared up to sunny skies, so much so, that we went out for a ride in the afternoon.

Looking outLooking out

MeMe

What a viewWhat a view

Once again I was in awe with the magnificence and sheer magnitude of the mountains and valleys. We hugged the Lesotho border and although I was not able to fulfil that dream of riding in Lesotho, this has made me more determined than ever to come back some day and do it! We did the Lundean’s Nek Pass (2162m) and I got to see the views I have only seen pics of – and dreamt of being able to bike that one day. And this was that day!! Yeahh!

HomesHomes


A shepherdA shepherd

More beautyMore beauty

It was absolutely breathtaking and I had to stop a few times, because there were just too many views to pass. We stopped in one of the many hairpin bends, and I had my left over chicken on a huge rock overlooking the entire valley below! I owned the world and had to savour it! One of those moments you realize how small you are compared to the magnitude of the spectacular sites!

stunningstunning

SunsetSunset

Once again a day that turned into one of my highlights! Something to always remember and cherish!

Young riders pick a destination and go... Old riders pick a direction and go.

 Day 7

We woke up this morning with ice and frost on everything! Apparently -7’C, but fortunately I did not get too cold. Poor Abie froze to death in his tent – so it pays to lug extra big tents and sleeping bags along!

Ice on the tentIce on the tent

iceice

NN

Barkley East valleyBarkley East valley

We had a lovely ride today – not a huge distance, as the going was slow and at times the road just disappeared into an almost single tack, to suddenly re-appear some kms further. To be honest, there were a few times I suspected Abie was taking us on a wild goose chase, but then the next moment we would be out at a larger road and a faded old sign post would indicate we were on tack!

Loch BridgeLoch Bridge

StillStill

We scaled down quite a few passes, some over 400m at a time. And stunning views of dry grasslands, dams, sheep and cattle down in the valleys and along the road. Then we hit the strange roads… It looks as if a bulldozer had started making a clearing, but never got round to making the road! Then passing a few scattered little houses, suddenly that road disappeared and we were on farms and having to hoot a cow and calf out the way, just to make use of the little bit of road. Potholes, ruts and ditches were the order of the day. And a few challenging muddy spots. But I had no problem with any of it! That was Cool! My favourite kinda riding!! My front right hand’s shock started getting an oil leak, so that makes for a bumpy ride, but I can go on like that till I get back to the Cape.

SomewhereSomewhere

We had a long day and tuff riding, but once again I loved every moment of it! Arrived just before sunset in Hogsback, which is a lovely place!  We started just after 5.30 this morning, having a braai of some of last night’s meat tonight and then an early bed for two tired bodies!

Home boundHome bound

Only a Biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.

 Day 8

We slept in a bit today, and then went for a breakfast at the Butterflies Bistro in Hogsback. The electricity was out and we waited for over an hour for the food to pitch – just as well we were not in a hurry!

Butterflies BistroButterflies Bistro

Then – as per usual, we took the winding back roads out of Hogsback. Stunning! Reminds one a bit of the Tsitsikamma. A narrow little road twisting and turning and large parts under a tree covered canopy! This is a two way, single lane, and due to the bike’s noise and the helmets, we cannot hear cars coming from the font. Unfortunately we had a huge timber truck accompany as all the way – we would be in front and when we stop for a pic, it would come past, just for us to try and get out the dust and a better view some while later, passing it again. We had this repeated most of our way out the forest.

Timber truckTimber truck

HogsbackHogsback

 

Coming round a bend, Abie wanted to take a pic, but was a bit late with the camera, so asked me to go back and come round the bend again. As I was going to turn on the other side, a bit off the shoulder into some pine needles, my front wheel slipped right out under me! I did not notice all the mud on the side and gently put my poor Wedwo down in the mud! Abie ran up to help and nothing was damaged or broken – well, maybe a little of the ego, as that was a suuuper silly mistake! Well, no harm done, he got his pic and I got a different pic!

The dropThe drop

This road changed over the mountains to pine forests and open grasslands for cattle. Later we stated seeing the typical rural sites of what was known as the old Ciskei some years ago. Friendly blacks waved or cheered us along, and the road became more rutted and full of potholes! The GPS had been acting up all morning and I found it strange that Abie would suddenly take a left turn onto a road with big signs saying this was not a through-fare? After a while he fortunately stopped. After flagging down a car, we discovered we were totally on the wrong road and had to turn back as we came. Fortunately for the stop, I discovered one of my straps had broken and he helped me tie down the load again. So many straps were used, that things were safe in any case, but still….

Broken strapsBroken straps

I suspect it was the water in Hogsback – did not accommodate with me - so being out in the sticks with no facilities close by could be stressful! Wonder if it can be a bug of some sorts? We hit Stutterheim in the afternoon and after filling up, headed the almost 80km back via tar, with very strong winds from the side.

Along the wayAlong the way

I had an absolutely awesome trip with Abie. Not only is he helpful and considerate, but he had the patience of a saint! I would be honoured if ever we could do a trip together again!

 

Tomorrow back to tar – sniff sniff! My oil leak is still there and the back tire suddenly looks a bit worn – will have to keep a close eye on it! All in all, the Wild Dog Bash was a fantastic experience, and getting there and back is what really made it for me – Thanks Abie, for looking after me so well and taking me on all the adventurous tracks!!

Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle.

 Day 9

I survived! What a day! It was probably the most difficult riding I had ever done! The tummy bug had me awake all night and then I was up just after 5am to start packing and loading. Feeling tired and drained, the next 500-odd kms lying ahead seemed a bit much. Once again I got away later than intended (what’s new?!?).  I took the coastal road from East London to the Pedi turn-off and then made for the N2 via Grahamstown. What a lovely ride that was?! A quiet road I shared only with some cattle and goats. The N2 was also surprisingly quiet compared to the very busy, truck-laden coastal road. I refilled in Grahams town – what a lot of lovely churches – probably more than in any other town in SA!

PediPedi

From there my ride became difficult. I was very tired and fortunately there was no strong wind from the front. Yet I had severe tummy cramps. Abie had gotten me meds and I suspect I might have “overdosed” to make sure I won’t have problems along the way. As I had not been eating since the previous morning (except a slice of toast), I had a sandwich in PE. I drunk copious amounts of Energade and felt extremely bloated and uncomfortable. My ears also felt strange – almost closed up – and I wished they would pop open.

Gamtoos River VlleyGamtoos River Vlley

After PE I took the small detour via the pretty Gamtoos River, but hit the N2 once I reached Jeffreysbay, not wanting to drag out the riding for too long. Since my stops were taking a lot of time, it was getting petty late. The Bloukrans and Grootrivier passes were both closed down and I was disappointed I missed out on that – I was sure some special scenery would take my mind off my fatigue!

A quick stopA quick stop

Once I had passed the toll gates, (R36 for the bike?!? Is that crazy or what?!?), the sun was so low; it really made riding extremely difficult. I was staying over with a friend on a farm some kms out of Plettenberg bay. The dear petrol attendants at PE washed my helmet for me, but did not rinse it with water, so the soapy residue suddenly had me almost blind when the sun got too low. Dog tired and within miles from my destination, I did not want to stop and spend more precious time trying to find something to clean it with, so pushed on. Once I hit the 6km dirt road, vehicles racing past the beautiful but busy dirt road, made it almost impossible to see, so I was eating dust as far as I was going due to lifting the visor!

Almost thereAlmost there

By now the cramps, nauseous-ness and tiredness was unbearable and I was just so relieved to hit the day’s destination - safe and sound. My friend was out for another hour or so and I literally passed out on the couch!

There's something ugly about a NEW bike on a trailer.

 

Day10

I slept in till 8am – well…. I had 2 cute Alsatians looking in on me and tying to snuff me out of bed from about 6am, but still, the lie in was good. Feeling much better than the previous day, I was still not up to any adventurous riding. My friend had left for work and the 2 dogs kept me company while I did some stuff on the laptop and then made a slow exit. The daunting 6km stretch of gravel from the previous evening was suddenly much easier and even prettier than when I came in. And boy, did I see a lot of horses! And lushes green fields, dams and forests.

BeautifulBeautiful

Went on to Knysna, where I spent some time chilling in the Mugg and Bean, getting onto the internet and having a small bite to eat. Although feeling much better than the previous day, I still felt fragile and not too keen on a lot of food.

Lovely roadLovely road

I left Knysna in a soft drizzle.  It did not last long, but I had hoped to catch sunset over the lakes, but too overcast and cloudy for that. I have to return the same way and hope things look better in the morning.

Horses!Horses!

I spent a great time with my friend, eating some more! She has the knack of rustling up the most delicious food from what she calls scraps!

SunsetSunset

Although I was disappointed not being able to do all the passes, I also know that it would not be safe taking on roads when I don’t feel quite up to it. For someone who never gets ill, this was a real wake-up call to appreciate one’s health while you have it! – And maybe have a bit more sympathy for those who always seem to have some or other pain – it might really be serious….

WildernessWilderness

Everyone crashes. Some get back on. Some don't. Some can't.

 

Day 11

Today was the weirdest day of my trip. I had emotions of absolute fear and frustrations go over into euphoria and elation as the day grew on. The tummy bug is still with me and I did not get much sleep. Just before 5am when I came out the bathroom, I saw my friend was up and about and went and got into her bed and chatted while she got herself ready for her husbands return from over seas.  With only 150km to go, I gave myself 3 hours to do the trip, knowing it involved a dirt road pass of over 80km. Plenty of time, so I made a late start and only left around 11.

The startThe start

One of the Wild dogs had explained that I take a turn-off in Knysna and I used Google maps the previous evening to make sure I will find the right road. As added security, I told the GPS where I was heading and lo and behold – was that thing not adamant?!?! Kept showing me where I should U-turn, to go back the 60km I have come from to take the route via George to Uniondale. There were also so many little forest roads that I started loosing my bearings. After following a Digger Loader at 7 kms per hour through the length of a squatter camp, I was fairly uneasy about my where abouts. After traverse sing about for well over an hour, I phoned my dad in desperation, hoping he could help me figure out how I can make the GPS take me the next 60kms over the mountain to the next town, in stead of 160km around! At that moment a truck came by and I could get directions – I was actually at the right road and could leave from there. – sighhh of relief!

Tree topsTree tops

Timber truckTimber truck

aa

Although a broad and beautifully kept road, it was wet and dangerously slippery. After my little “put-down” a few days earlier, I was pretty terrified of having to try and lift my bike on my own, so took it very slowly. The most awesome and stunning road and scenery unfolded before my eyes! Plantations of pine, indigenous forests and ferns all along my way. Till I hit the mountain passes and what a sight to behold?! Absolutely stunning!

A viewA viewFrom one of the topsFrom one of the tops

The road became a single track with a huge warning that no heavy vehicles may pass and I soon started to understand why… But before that reality hit home, I almost rode into a huge truck trying to go up the mountain?!? It was barely moving, and the tyres were off the road on both sides! It took me over 20 minutes of eating dust behind him before there was enough space for me to get past! Some 10 minutes further I started hitting the shortest of hairpin bends I have ever ridden – NO WAY that interlink will ever get through there! Just further on up the pass the road had washed away a piece of the mountain side and a small vehicle would hardly be able to pass!

Angies placeAngies place

The menuThe menu

After hitting one beautiful spot and scenery after the next, I cam across this little place nestled into the mountains, called Angie's G Spot. I went in and had a cold glass of … ermmm… Blue Energade! We had a bit of a chat. I told them about the interlink and they said it happens once every 6 months or so... This driver is costing his owner over a 100 grand in recovery fees, as a tow-in truck must come from Humansdorp (guess about 250km?) then go around the mountain and reverse down from the other side to get it out! Glad I passed before it was totally stuck!

Many water fallsMany water falls

In the passesIn the passes

Riding higher again, I hit the mist and what a lovely sight that was! It was cold up there and the scenery changed to masses of yellow Protea bushes and indigenous fynbos!

More beautyMore beauty

The MistThe Mist

All in all, this Prins Albert’s pass is a must for any biker! Any vehicle for that matter!! One new and exiting scene and road upon the next!! I ended up having one of the most thrilling days of the trip and so glad I did not just turn around and take the tar road as I almost felt like doing at one stage in the morning! Well worth it!

It is good to have an end to journey towards; but it is the journey that matters in the end. ~Ursula K. LeGuin

 

Day 12

I fell asleep while still trying to set the alarm clock for the next day, resulting in only waking at 8am! What a good rest and pretty sure my body was relieved to have a little extra time on my back rather than the back side! For some reason that part of my anatomy seems to be very sensitive and bruised?! After a lovely breakfast of fruit, yogurt and a bit of muesli, I set off just as it started drizzling.

The stunning LangkloofThe stunning Langkloof

FynbosFynbos

An absolutely beautiful ride over the pass looking down on the Langkloof – Route 62! It is totally beyond me WHY on earth people travelling between CT to PE would use the N2?? Route 62 must be one of not only the prettiest routes of all routes in South Africa, but the road is well kept and carries very little traffic. Coming back via N2, I got soo frustrated with almost 150kms between the Stormsriver Bridge and George having speed limits of between 60 and 100 – most of the way not allowing you over 80km/h!! Great big wide open national road and speed cops hiding in the bushes just wishing for you to go over 80! And in all of that distance, you get to see the see only once when passing Wilderness!

Lankloof from the one endLankloof from the one end

The Langkloof on the other hand has you riding between two mountain ranges, covered in either Fynbos, grasslands or fruit trees. Everything looks green and inviting and not an inch you can go without seeing something new and spectacular! Not to mention any traffic official and crazy speed limits. – Worried about where you will stop for your take-away meal? Well don’t!! – Pack a flask and sandwiches and enjoy the beauty having a picnic at the side of the road – and it will take you NO longer than waiting for your ready-made, greasy meal! Sorry for the rant – maybe best if I don’t inform the whole world what they are missing out on! Back to my trip!

Pouring rainPouring rain

Shortly after the pass I started hitting rain, getting so hard I had to go at a snails-pace! It banged so hard on my visor, I was certain it would crack! The torrential downpour lasted for a good 80kms. OK, maybe I am exaggerating a bit, but when you are tired and cold and on your way home, I guess things seem to be a bit worse than they really are! When I got to Oudshoorn, I dressed into my remaining raingear – yes, the pants were drenched already, but I hoped the suit would keep out some of the strong winds I had from the front. I looked like something between the Michelin man and the little Oros guy with all that gear on!

Michelin girlMichelin girl

 I got enticed by the smell of home-made baking and ended up gobbling a Thai-Chicken pie. Along the way, while the heartburn was tearing through my insides, I remembered why I NEVER buy pies! It had been ages since I had gotten so cold, in spite of all the clothes! Fuelling in Ladismith, the clouds moved over a bit and what do I see?!... SNOW on all the mountains!! No wonder I could not feel my fingers!

Snow in LadismithSnow in Ladismith

 I rode through a few more cloud breaks and lots of rain. The wind was so bad; it actually tore my rain jacket at the back! As I was nearing home I got very worried about the last km on to the farm. The gravel will be muddy and super slippery and I would hate to come to a crashing halt mere meters before I reach home! 500m before home, suddenly the rain stopped and the road was dry?!

Almost homeAlmost home

Bike and myself home in one pieceBike and myself home in one piece

Well, almost in one piece!Well, almost in one piece!

A very relieved dad!A very relieved dad!

I reached my folks place just after 4pm on Friday, the 28th. 12 Days after starting the 3102km exhilarating adventure of a life time! Bike and myself safe and unscathed! All the thanks and glory to God!

Sunset on my last daySunset on my last day

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, 'Wow! What a Ride! ~Hunter S. Thompson

Comments

Tony's picture
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Joined: 2008/08/24

Bliksem Jinx! wat 'n trip. Ek's skoon jaloers.

Dankie vir die fantastiese RR en pragtige photos.

A bend in the road is not the end of the road... unless you fail to make the turn. ~Author Unknown

Mwendo's picture
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Joined: 2011/04/13

Viva Wedwo!

Well done Jinx, and thank you so much for sharing the experience!

 

--
The only problem with hindsight, is you don't see it coming!

 
Charles Oertel's picture
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Joined: 2007/04/14

Lovely report, and great pics.  Thanks.

I sense some frustration with uploading images.  I suspect it is because you are uploading full-size images, at about 2MB each.  This will take time and is unnecessary.  I saved one of your pictures that was 2MB, opened it with my photo editor, and saved it at 85% quality (instead of the 95% it was at).  The file size halved.

Even that is a big file, and the image is far to big to display on a screen anyway.  So I used the photo editor to scale the image to 1024 pixels wide.  The file size is down to less than a tenth of what it was before.

Here is the image:

Scaled image at 168MBScaled image at 168MB

Go on, click it.

One of the reasons I have not pursued a bulk image uploader on this site is because people will just dump photos (all their photos). It will consume bandwidth (i.e. cost me money), and reduce the site to a photobucket. Now, people think before they bother to upload a picture - they scale and crop and select only the best ones.

Committee: Webmaster / Ride Captain

Happyfeet's picture
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Joined: 2010/02/12

Thanks for the advice Charles! I did try the photo editor recomended on the forum, but it is for XP and I have Windows 7 and it does not work.

But I will first try resizing - somehow, as I feel the nicest pics won't upload, sometimes trying 3 or 4 times per pic, including renaming them.

Did not realize the pics were too big, sorry!

Jinx Louw

I don't suffer from insanity, I love every minute of it!

Charles Oertel's picture
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Joined: 2007/04/14

There are other programs Jinx - just google for something like 'Windows 7 photo editing software'.

Committee: Webmaster / Ride Captain

Mwendo's picture
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Joined: 2011/04/13

Picasa works well enough for me.
It runs on all Windows flavours.

--
The only problem with hindsight, is you don't see it coming!

 
Happyfeet's picture
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Joined: 2010/02/12

I tried a few, but my pc keeps telling me they are unsafe for my computer and worried to download any.

Jinx Louw

I don't suffer from insanity, I love every minute of it!

Happyfeet's picture
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Joined: 2010/02/12

Thanks Cicil, I have it and use it for all my editing, but it does not have resizing? Unless I am doing something terribly wrong?!? - I have been using it for a long time now.

Jinx Louw

I don't suffer from insanity, I love every minute of it!

GeelKameel's picture
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Joined: 2007/06/21

Baie dankie, wonnerlike trip en report!!!

The roads east of Hoggsback are very high on my must-do-list. One day I will get a chance to do them..... 

Laughing

 

Geoff Russell's picture
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Joined: 2007/09/25

Great report. Thanks jinx.

Committee: Ride Captain

Mwendo's picture
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Joined: 2011/04/13

Jinx, use Picasa's "File -> Export_Picture_To_Folder" function.
This offers you a Resize option (set it to 1024, for example) as well as an alternative location so you do not modify the original.
I think the default location is something like
"\My Documents\My Pictures\Picasa\Exports"

--
The only problem with hindsight, is you don't see it coming!

 
Happyfeet's picture
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Joined: 2010/02/12

Wow! Super cool! Thanks soo much - cannot believe it took seconds to do, compared to the hours I spent last night resizing them one by one! Was unfortunately only the last few pics, Cry but now I know for the future!

Appreciate the advice! Thanks!

Jinx Louw

I don't suffer from insanity, I love every minute of it!

Leon1ee's picture
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Joined: 2007/12/06

A very nice report. This is what I want to do when I retire. Give the kids the house and go and explore our country.

Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle

Charles Oertel's picture
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Joined: 2007/04/14

Nice Cecil

So, the rule is "Use Picasa".   Jinx, sorry that you are on Windows.  Cannot believe people will use a system that won't let them do anything because it is "not safe".  I am always amazed at how much effort one must go through to access the internet on Windows - it's like having a car that won't let you drive because you might have a crash!

Committee: Webmaster / Ride Captain

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Joined: 2008/01/28

Brilliant report. I really enjoyed the quotations.

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Joined: 2007/06/25

I know it's still early in the month , but this trip report must rate tops. Cool And yes that Eastern Cape is wonderful to ride as is the R 62. On a return trip from P E we were trapped in Kareedouw, just waved at the officer as we rode by, so yes they do trap on this road.  Surprised 

Think before you ink.

Trust is the most valuable asset.

I have the rest of my life to get old.

PeterO's picture
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Joined: 2007/09/11

Jinx - a great report, thanks!

I'm glad you managed to get at least one shot of that broad smile shining through the helmet.

If you can dream it you can do it!

BobGoode's picture
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Joined: 2010/10/07

Great trip report, Happy Feet & Wedwo. What a long trip. Well done for tackling it on your own. Loved the quotations 'cept not so sure about the Bob's your uncle one! 

Let it be.

Stan's picture
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Joined: 2010/03/21

Thanks for all the beautiful pics Smile

Charles Oertel's picture
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Joined: 2007/04/14

Bliksem!  Now that I have seen the whole trip report - is it epic!  Well done Jinx, the adventure trip rivals that of one of Geoff's East Cape tours.  Incredible.

This should serve as inspiration for all the lady riders in the club (and elsewhere).  And by 'lady rider' I don't mean only those of the fairer sex Wink

Committee: Webmaster / Ride Captain

Happyfeet's picture
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Joined: 2010/02/12

Just got back from a few days riding the gravel roads I could not do when I returned from this trip. Will post a report and pics soon. Another great ride!

Thanks to all for the really nice comments and compliments. I appreciate it and makes the ages it took to get the pics here worth the while! Laughing

Jinx Louw

I don't suffer from insanity, I love every minute of it!