Monantsa, Memel, and more

Kevin Charleston's picture

My Canadian sister and her husband came to SA for a visit. A family gathering in Parys this past weekend offered the prospect of a bike-trip on some roads less travelled.  "How about a drink at the top of Sani on your birthday" asked my youngest sister, Katrina.  It didn't quite work out that way, but the extended negotiations turned out quite nicely.  

The plan was to meet in Underberg on Monday evening. Now I like my bike, but I couldn't see myself doing about 1600km in one day.

Day 1 - Cape Town to Port Alfred: I started early on Sunday, and tore up the N2 - stopped for brunch in George and headed up the Outeniqua pass for the R62, the Langkloof road which I'd never seen.  Weather was good, roads in great shape.  The Langkloof is ok.  A couple of interesting pieces, but we are seriously spoiled with stunning roads in the Western Cape.  

Langkloof 

Langkloof

An interesting change as I moved from Western to Eastern Cape: the road was bumpier, a few potholes, signage poorer, roadsides crumbling.  It could just be different stages in the road-work cyle - but it does seem that maintenance is poorer in the Eastern Province.  The N2 is in good shape for the most part, but the secondary roads not so much.  

Stopped over at a B&B, the 'Villa Majestic', in Port Alfred - not bad, but doesn't quite live up to the name.  

Day 2 - Port Alfred to Underberg: Hot and Humid as I departed Port Alfred on the R72, heading for East London and the N2. Plenty of potholes. The pass over the Kei river is a fun ride.  Heading further East, the N2 becomes worse. Several sets of road works.  The road kill in various states of decomposition suggesting that the goats on the side of the road are a real hazard.

The roads get better after Kokstad. Some great secondary roads in the KZN as you approach Underberg.  

Near Underberg

Near Underberg

I arrived at the overnight destination: Orchid Lodge - an old house, nicely set up, with a fantastic view - and a 2.5km driveway that needs a 4x4.  Loretta and Larry (Canada) and Katrina and Vincent (Johannesburg) had already arrived the previous day.   

Orchid Valley Driveway 

Orchid Valley Driveway

 

View from Orchid Valley 

View from Orchid Valley

Day 3: Underberg to Mokhotlong. So my brother-in-law, Vincent, built a carrier for his KTM 625 which he mounted on the back of his Toyota Hi-Lux 4x4. He'd be riding, and the others following in the bakkie.  

Vincent's Handiwork

Vincent's Handiwork

We set out in clear weather for Sani Pass.  As we approached, the dark clouds gathered at the top - with a tempting bright-patch over the pass itself.  Should be ok I thought.  

Mexican Standoff

Mexican Standoff

Half way up, the rain started drizzling, not too bad, just damping the surface a bit.  Vincent raced up, intending to walk back down the last bit and assist with the bakkie.  Nervously, but confidently I made my way up. Stopped once for a photo and a gasped breath. "Doing much better than last time". I mentally patted myself on the back.  Serious error, round the next corner too slowly, lack of momentum, stalled the bike and put a foot down on nothing. Stupid side-stand incident.  Picked up the bike (the panniers really help keep the bike from going down completely flat) and recoverd my breath for 10 minutes.  The rest was pretty straightforward, although starting to get a bit slippier.  

Sani Side-stand incident location

Sani Side-stand incident location

Katrina managed to get the bakkie up all the way (way to go girl!) without Vincent's help. 

Lunch at Sani Top, and the rain came down.  Thunder, hail, pouring rain.  Decision time: wait for it to stop (and try and cross full rivers and serious mud hazards) or move on during a slight lull and hope things improve. Ever the optimists we chose the latter. 

A bit wet on top

A bit wet on top

Nervously we headed off. Hail was spread across the top like snow. The road was just rivulets, with the odd steady stream. Lack of momentum again left me stranded in the middle of the deepest stream. Oh well, boots dry eventually. 

Sani Top plus hail and raindrops

Sani Top plus hail and raindrops

About 5km futher on, the rain stopped and we saw the first construction vehicles.  The Chinese have arrived near the top - and are making a hell of a mess - although strangely, not a drop of tar laid yet. 

The road up the next pass (Kothisephola), which was quite rough last year, is now relatively smooth and un-interesting.  Lots of roadworks still happening. 

Kothisephola pass - under construction

Kothisephola pass - under construction

The Chinse are no environmentalists.  Rocks have been blasted and dumped into the river-beds.  Large swathes of the road are churned up by trucks - leaving long stretches of mud. 

Chinese Roadworks - no respect for nature

Chinese Roadworks - no respect for nature

Not being a fan of muddy roads, I started cautiously.  "Not too slippy", I thought. "Perhaps there's less clay in this stuff than our Cape mud", and I opened up a bit. Overconfidence again my downfall - promptly slipped over at about 30kph.  Not just a sidestand incident - but fortunately bruises, bumps and injured prider the nly damage.  Much, much harder to pick up a GS in the mud though.

Mud

Mud - my nemesis

Stayed over at the Senqu Hotel in Mokhotlong.  Not bad, but fairly basic. The clerk offered us the use of a garage for the bikes, which we gratefully accepted. 

Senqu lodge parking

Senqu lodge parking

Day 4 - Mokhotlong to Clarens.  The trip up the A1 is great for a while, the tar road in pretty good condition until just after Mapholoneng. Lesotho has some stunning tar roads - but they frequently turn to potholes and then peter-out completely.  Where the tar has completely gone, it leaves lots of loose gravel and pebbles. As you approach the mines, the roadworks start again (we drove down some of these last year on Goeff's tour).  The roadworks seem to carry on forever, but stop when the road becomes tar as you approach the Moteng pass.  This is fairly ordinary as you approach the top - but the descent is stunning.  A couple of very serious potholes notwithstanding, this is a fantastic road. 

About 10km outside Butha-Bute we stopped and waited for the bakkie, had a bit of a snack. We had intended to ride the Monantsa pass - which turns off the A1 to the right, and ends up just outside Puthatitjaba and the Golden Gate National park.  I'd seen this described in Deon Meyer's "Dirt Busters". He describes "Forgotten Monsanta" as Lesotho's most awe-inspiring road. He writes "This is an adventure valley - a rough dirt road that can cause several anxious moments if you don't and concentrate the entire way. But it's worth the adrenaline rush. Calling the road 'pretty' would be as appropriate as calling Charlize Theron 'cute'".  I couldn't describe it any better. There are some really rough patches, but it is beautiful - running along a river valley.  Just do it. You know you want to.  

Road to Monantsa

Road to Monantsa

As we were munching lunch, the bakkie-crew were still deciding whether they would go through Caledonspoort or follow us through Monantsa.  Fortunately they chose the former. 
It was about 13h50 when someone asked "what time does the border close?" Ulp..  err ..  about 4pm?  2 hours? For 54km? should be ok .... Better get on our bikes then. 

More Monantsa

More Monantsa

We made it into Monantsa pass border control at 15h52. If the bakkie had been following, they would not have made it - the border closed at 16h00. If the last piece of the pass had not been concreted - we wouldn't have made it either.  Fortunately there's no Lesotho border control - 'cause that would have slowed us down as well.

Last gasp on Monantsa

Last gasp on Monantsa

After filling up (the KTM, sigh) in Puthatitjaba, we stayed on tar through Golden Gate to Clarens.  This is a stunning ride (normally), but after Monantsa seemed almost mundane.

Day 5 - Memel, and some passes.  It had poured with rain the previous night - so we decided to skip the dirt roads initially and head straight for breakfast in Memel.  After breakfast, a tricky farm road took us to the S17 and on to Muller's pass (P207).  This is a quietly beautiful pass, on a decent gravel road. 

Mullers Pass

Muller's Pass

 

Normandien Pass

Normandien Pass

That brought us to the bottom of the Normandien Pass (P270), which is a load of fun. Also beautiful, and a bit more tricky.  Parts are concreted, but it is mostly good gravel with the odd rocky patch.  There are other roads that lead to this pass - looks like a great place to spend some time. 

We turned south diown the S692, towards Collins Pass.  This road was quite long, and more technical. Washed away sections, much looser gravel - not suited for a novice. Also not as pretty as the other two passes. 

Road to Collins Pass

Road to Collins Pass

This took us to Besters, and a turn up alongside the railway line.  It started out a nice road, but turned a bit sinister when the rain fell.  It looked like a safe and relatively dry surface, but felt like riding on grease. Vincent evened the score by having an incident right at the feet of a man on a horse.  I paddled up for about a km and we came to the railway tunnel.   A bit slippery on the other side still, but we made it to the Green Lantern in Van Reenen in pouring rain.

Railway Tunnel

Railway Tunnel

The bar-lady at the inn has a bit of a long face, but she's quite friendly and likes Nik-Naks. 

Green Lantern Bar-lady

Green Lantern Bar-lady

Tar back to Clarens, and it poured down on us all through the Golden Gate park. 

Day 6 - Clarens to Parys, via the Motorcycle Museum at Deneysville.  This is worth a visit if you are in the Vaal area - but the roads are just plain booooring. 

Vincent

Vincent x 2

We stayed at Kopjeskraal - just across the Vaal from Parys, in the Vredefort Dome area.

I allowed Vincent to approach my bike to do a bit of panel-beating. The incident on Sani had bent the pannier a bit and the latch would not open. 

Get that hammer-wiuelding KTM rider away from my girl!

Get that hammer-wielding KTM rider away from my ride!

Day 9 - Parys to Bloemfontein.  There are some nice roads in the Parys area and along the Vaal. I found a couple - but the rain came down heavily and 50m down a muddy road gave up and made for slab. The R41- toll fee from Kroonstad to Bloem added insult to injury - particular with the roadworks and detours. 

Crossing the Vaal

Crossing the Vaal

Day 10 - Bloem to Cape Town. Sheer bloody hell down the N1.  Rain, and Roadworks.  I lost count of the stop & go's after 11 - must have wasted well over an hour. I think that finally killed the battery.  She stalled a couple of times, and struggled to start.   It really was rather decent of her to die completely in Cape Town the following day, rather than in the middle of Lesotho. 

A great trip.  I love my bike, and this country (and that of our national neighbours). I am incredibly fortunate to be able to experience this lifestyle. 

Life's good Smile

 



Comments

Tony's picture
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Joined: 2008/08/24

Hey Kevin, great report (and trip).

While reading I was wishing that I was there too .... until it started raining Tongue out.

Love the photos.

A bend in the road is not the end of the road... unless you fail to make the turn. ~Author Unknown

Mwendo's picture
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Joined: 2011/04/13

Excellent report Kevin, thank you.

Let us know if / when you discover a technique to practice mud skills Wink

--
The only problem with hindsight, is you don't see it coming!

 
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Joined: 2008/01/28

Great report Kevin. Can someone please remind me why I am still working.

Tony's picture
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Joined: 2008/08/24

To pay for all the bike trips???

A bend in the road is not the end of the road... unless you fail to make the turn. ~Author Unknown

Leon1ee's picture
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Joined: 2007/12/06

Very nice trip report Kevin

Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle

Andyman's picture
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Joined: 2007/06/22

Good one, thanks for the trip report and the photos.

Andyman
Anyone can ride a bike fast....   But can you ride your bike real slow???

Hans Ambulans's picture
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Joined: 2013/10/01

Good read. Enjoyed!

Kevin van Blerk's picture
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Joined: 2008/02/10

A nice report and read Kevin


/\/¯¯¯¯¯\/\ R1200GS-WP

Geoff Russell's picture
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Joined: 2007/09/25

Thanks for the great report.

Just returned from Lesotho and we had the worst rain storm I have ever experienced just outside Semongkong. Thought the lightning and thunder was going to blow us up!!!!!!!

For the first time in many visits I saw the Maletsunyane river running very strongly making the Maletsunyane Fall's absolutely spectacular.

Committee: Ride Captain

Mwendo's picture
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Joined: 2011/04/13

@Geoff

You'll share your photos of Maletsunyane Falls wih us, right? Wink

--
The only problem with hindsight, is you don't see it coming!