We meet at 5:30 am at the Winelands 1-Stop for breakfast. It is an appropriate end to a week of last-minute arrangements: new tyre (knobblies mandatory for this trip), on-the-road snacks, traveling cash, and packing for an extended trip to a region where temperatures can range between -5 and 30+.
Tyres are inflated to 3 bar for a long, hard ride on tar. N1 Worcester over Du Toitskloof, then R60 to Montagu, R62 to Oudtshoorn, N12 to De Rust, R341 to the N9 where we turned left for Graaff Reinet. If it sounds quick and frenetic with almost no stops - it was.
Along the way John Finch joined us from Stanford, and at Graaff Reinet Gunther Kritzinger from Jo'burg joined us.
We got to the Camdeboo Cottages before 3pm, and were able to enjoy a beer and swim before supper. The local witblits (called 'Wit Hond') bared its teeth as we were treated to some complementary shots, and some were given not quite so complimentary 'strafdoppe' for various infringements. Frans Coetzee was the appointed "strafmeester" and he pursued his task relentlessly.
I shared a room with Junaid. It is always nice to get to know new people in this way. Junaid is from Texas, and although he has lived in South Africa for 6 years now, he is expecting to return home in July most likely.
Again, an early start. Bags packed at the backup vehicle by 6:30, breakfast at 6:45 and depart before 7:30. We had two backup vehicles: Geoff's bakkie, driven by John and Des Gillespie, and Chris Dunn in his Landrover.
On this stretch we covered some dirt roads at speed. Being an 'extreme' tour meant that the riders were capable and we rode in tight formation.
From Graaff Reinet north on the N9 past the Nieu Bethesda turnoff, then turn right onto the R61 and over the Wapadsberg pass. At Spitskopvlei we turned left onto the R401 towards Hofmeyr on dirt.
It was on one of these sections where Kevin hit a nasty pothole that put his bike on the trailer with a bent torsion bar.
Hofmeyr to Molteno on the R391, then the R56 through Dordrecht, Indwe, Elliot, Ugie, Maclear, Mount Fletcher and Matatiele. On one of the dirt legs, I passed a dead buck on the road. I thought it had been hit by a car the night before. Next minute I saw Tony Schlee heading back, and figured he was going to take a closer look.
What I didn't know was that he had killed the buck and going back to make sure it was dead. Tony the Terminator they call him. Nearly took out a poor cow the next day on Sani Pass also.
I was treated to more gore and horror in Maclear, when a dog ambled into the road ahead of me, right into the path of a slow-moving bakkie. I will never forget the look of surprise on the dog's face as the bakkie struck it from behind and rode over it. The wheel must have crushed the poor creature's hips or spine, as it ended up unable to move in the street, yelping in pain.
On the last stretch from Underberg to the place we were staying, I was riding shotgun with Geoff. As we entered the grounds, the road became very interesting, and the wildlife even more so. A Wildebeest dashed across the road right in front of us, and stumbled on the road but managed to avoid becoming another animal statistic on our tour.
Penwarn was cosy, and I shared with Arno. They also had a workshop where Geoff, Henk and some others helped Kevin bend his torsion bar straighter so that he could attempt Sani Pass the next day. Some people had also elected to fit their new knobblies here, rather than wear them down during the ride up on tar. We all chipped in to help - some to learn and some to give advice.
Pete had brought a bottle of the tyre lube that SupaQuick Parow uses to help get tyres on and off the bead. With some long tyre levers, the right technique, a bike sidestand and some heavy boots, it turned out to be surprisingly easy. It certainly helped to have a proper workshop compressor to help seat the bead. We finished off in the dark by torchlight.
Supper and strafdoppe was followed by an early night, as we had a big day ahead of us.
We were all quite nervous for this day - Sani Pass was either on our bucket list, or those that had done it knew what was coming. The day dawned cold and foggy. Much debate about what to wear, given that we would be working hard, and yet might end up cold and wet. I opted for my thermal under-pants since my riding pants are airflow, and could always put on my rain jacket over the airflow jacket.
During morning preparations, I decided to tackle the ABS problem I had been experiencing on dirt: my ABS would turn back on while I was riding! I figured I just needed to unplug the ABS relay. Since ABS is an optional feature, I reckoned the relay would be on the end of the line of relays - and it was. Unplugging the rightmost relay caused the ABS warning lights to stop flashing. Voila! (or so I thought). Reading the manual now I see that the relay only manages the warning lights, not ABS itself. Which will explain how I came to ride up Sani, down the other side, all the way to Thaba Tseka and then Matatiele, with ABS active. I had to improve my use of the gears and brakes in order to make it.
We stopped to deflate tyres at the foot of the pass (1.5 bar front and back), and while we were still fiddling, the first few riders started the trip. The scenery at the bottom is stunning.
Heart in mouth I started. It seemed easy enough at first. The road was curvy and steep in places, and quite rocky. But not too bad (so far). Soon I was too hot and stopped to take off my raincoat. The sun had come out and it looked to be a glorious day.
After a long ride up the approach valley, I came to the foot of the steep bit. Here, the road climbs steeply in a series of switchbacks to the top of the pass. There must be about 20 switchbacks, and since momentum is crucial, once you start it is best not to stop. Hah!
After a few switchbacks, I look up to see that there is a bike down on the next one, and a few bikes stopped in the turn to help. I stop also. It is Jacques. He is up and his bike is up, but he is taking a break. Nothing more to be done, I decide to get going. Reversing the bike I come within a micrometre of losing my balance and tipping downhill. That skin on my teeth is wearing thin.
Finally I get going, and I do not stop until I get to the top. Still a bit unfit and not used to Mr.Badger, so my legs are burning and my arms are pumped.
The Lesotho border post is an unassuming hut with no signposts. Easy enough to check in once you know where. Then we paused for coffee at the Sani Pass Hotel and watched the stragglers battling their way up the last few switchbacks.
It seems to be a tendency for the weaker riders to congregate at the back of the group, and although they help each other, they also cause each other to fall or to stop more often. This saps their strength even more than if they were near the front with more capable riders to help them.
We took the road towards Mokhotlong (actually, there was no other road), and rode up some magnificent pass with the highest peak in Southern Africa on our right (Thabana Ntlenyana).
The difficulty of this rivalled that of Sani. Before Mokhotlong we turned left down a steep pass on the way to Thaba Tseka. There were a few offs on this stretch, and the backup vehicle and trailer came in handy.
Kevin's torsion bar had bent again, so was put on the trailer. Geoff had organized for a new bar to be couriered to Matatiele.
Here we got our first taste of what lay ahead. The roads can be appalling - rough, rocky, potholed. The few cars on these roads ride very slowly, only slightly faster than walking pace, and they weave from side to side in search of the smoothest surface, until a smooth 'tweespoor' of car tracks is visible on the road surface. This is often a great line to follow on the bike also.
There are many small villages and schools along the road, and the children come running to wave as we approached them. The children (or is it those that are left) do not run into the road.
Everywhere, there are donkeys carrying bags on their backs, and men riding horses. They use the road, or donkey paths that intersect the road.
The turns and curves in the road are much tighter than what is normal in South Africa, and often you encounter a tight turn on a blind rise that is off-camber and may have any or all of animals, children, potholes, trucks, loose gravel or donkey doo on it.
On sections of road being tarred by the chinese, you have large-scale construction. The road surface can be anything from sandy, loamy or rocky, on top of which you need to avoid big trucks, blasting, and you often get lost trying to find the route with all the detours. Some sections of road are very narrow, and should be run as a stop/go, but are not. So you start out, round a corner, and then have to deal with a big truck coming your way and nowhere to escape. Good times
At Thaba Tseka we had to fill up. No petrol station as we know it - just some tanks on the side of the hill with a pump and a chinese lady with a calculator.
The accommodation is a luxuriously appointed complex that caters to government officials on business in the area. But it was all wrong in a funny way:
I was given a single room, which was just as well because I needed desperately to stretch. But the room had no floor space so I did it on the bed. Some pilates stretches soon had me limping around like a war amputee.
On this leg we were headed back into the Eastern Cape via Ramatseliso's Gate. The route was very scenic along the Senqu River (source of the Orange River).
Then we started a long climb up the Matabeng pass.
We arrived in Matatiele nice and early. I was sharing with Arno in a house two houses away from the main complex. I had oil leaking all over my left front brake caliper, and was looking for some way to repair what I thought was a leak in the brake hose.
Arno mentioned that it was still business hours, and I should try an engineering works or auto-repair shop in Matatiele. So I started racing around trying to find a place that could help me. The engineering works in Matatiele had the hose, but not the fittings, and put me in touch with a fellow (Dennis Marlow) in Kokstad who could help. I had one hour to get to Kokstad, 80 km away. Tony kindly lent me his GPS, and phone (as mine was blocked), and I raced off.
Got to NCW Hydraulics & Cables at 4:45 pm. Dennis very kindly set about diagnosing the problem. There was oil from the mudguard on down, which had led me to conclude the leak was in the hose at the mudguard.
Dennis cleaned up the whole area and tightened the banjo-bolt on the brake caliper. I rushed off to a neighbouring auto shop to buy brake fluid to replace all the fluid we had lost with the leak. Dennis was reluctant to replace the hose and re-use the old fittings (and he did not have the right new ones). He also would not allow me to disable one side of the brake system in front to stop the leaking.
After he had tightened everything and had me pump the brakes to try to find a leak he concluded that either it was leaking at the banjo-bolt and was now fixed, or the oil is from something else. Since there is no oil above the mudguard and fork bridge, it could not be fork oil leaking from the fork seal, and since the fork is solid it could not be leaking elsewhere (oh how wrong I was). It was also not brake fluid, because the reservoir was full - so full there was no indicator line in the window and I had thought it was completely empty.
Dennis rides a 1200GS and is familiar with our website and with the Wild Dogs forum. He would not accept any compensation for his help, and on my way back to Matatiele I reflected on the incredible kindness and friendliness of the people in these parts. I have seen it time and again - people from the Eastern Cape are helpful and easy to get on with. Turns out Kokstad is in Natal, but only just (mostly to escape the (non-)government of the Eastern Cape). He extended an open invitation to anybody in those parts in need of mechanical assistance.
I got back to Matatiele just in time for the straf-doppe, and was heavily penalized for riding 160km to have a bolt tightened! At least I would be going into Ongeluksnek with working brakes. Kevin Charlston's bike has been repaired with the part delivered to the Lodge. Junaid's bike has been written off after a tumble and has been taken away by the insurance company.
Geoff had warned us - this would be a long and hard day. There was a chance we would not make it by nightfall. In addition, Geoff had not been able to recce the route as Ongeluksnek was impassable at the time - so slippery with mud they could not even walk up it. So we had no idea what to expect after the initial climb of the pass.
On top of that, the backup vehicle would not be able to follow us. Geoff told us there was a broken-down Triumph abandoned up there because it was so inaccessible.
The pass is so rarely used, there is no border post on the Lesotho side.
On the way there my mirror comes loose and I ask Geoff during one of the stops if there is time for me to get out the tools and tighten it. Then, at the South African border post, while chatting to the guys about how my ABS keeps turning back on while I am riding, they say they would rather ride all year in traffic with no ABS, than do one of the Lesotho passes with ABS on.
We solve the ABS problem by removing the front sensor. I was inclined to cut the wire to the sensor, but good sense had me unbolt it so that it was no longer reading the notched wheel.
The first part of the road is lovely - grassy tweespoor over undulating hills. I'm thinking this is going to be great. Then we round a corner going up a hill.
There are a number of stopped bikes and a few being picked up. The problem is that the steep previously muddy incline has hardened into a maze of rutted dongas partially concealed by the long grass. Luck has a large role to play, and having all stopped we no longer had momentum on our side.
Once the path ahead was mostly free of bikes it was my turn to go. The initial stopping and starting on uneven ground where I could not get a foot down had caused me to drop Mr.Badger twice and battle to get going again.
Once up and running things went OK until I rounded the corner and was faced with a new puzzle of ruts, and people shouting instructions like "left, left". Now was it "keep left", or "don't go left"? In no time at all I was stuck again. Luckily now all the hands that had served to confuse me were there to help me get going again. But I did not exactly clothe myself in glory and went down again riding up what should have been an easy pipe.
Park the bike and walk down the slope to help the others. It was hard work, and the air was thin. If Geoff hadn't been so busy helping and riding people's bikes out we might have considered lynching him - we had covered two kilometers of this unknown pass in about 3 hours, with another 278km to go!
Henk was impressive - he was everywhere, helping everyone, riding people's bikes up and lugging rocks to fill some of the ruts.
Once we were all through we were on the bikes and moving again. Another corner. More stopped bikes. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot? Some more ruts, but a bit more level, and a big mud pool. Easy decision - avoid the mud. I notice that Tony behind me, instead of following my line (which was a good one copied from Andre ahead of me), elects to go through the mud. I stop to wait for him, hoping I don't need to go help. Luckily, with his long legs he eventually gets out of the mud so we move on.
Andre rides beautifully, and I make a point of following him when in doubt. The riders in front have disappeared up the mountain, and the ones behind are battling to get going. Once I have momentum I find it hard to stop and carry on up the pass until I reach a wide flat area where I can stop for a break and to wait for the others.
Turns out I am able to act as a radio relay between the back markers and the others further ahead. The back markers take forever to come back into view. From now on the road is a lot easier - just rocks, no ruts. So I ride on ahead to the others.
The others are gathered at a rocky incline, and celebrating each rider getting through. We are at the foot of some switchbacks to the top of the nek. Pete O'hanlon, Gunther Kritzinger and myself go on ahead. Pete makes it through the switchbacks, but it is not clear how many there are or how hard it is. Next is Gunther and he seems to make it also.
Now my turn. For some reason I just cannot make the first switchback turn and drop the bike in thick loose rocks. Idiot! Arno below comes running, but I shout at him not to help - I can manage. Turns out there are just two switchbacks - but they are tricky - the line is a single-spoor walked by horses and donkeys.
Once we have everyone through to the top of the pass we have covered 5km in 4 hours. We have about 6 hours of daylight left, and 275km to go. One casualty: Pete hit a rock and cut his nose open on his bike screen.
What sublime riding. I slot in behind Geoff at the front and we ride a fantastic tweespoor right next to a big dam. The scenery is stunning. The riding superb. We stop to laugh at Geoff nearly cooking his goose.
On the way we get a radio message from Pete - Geoff Edwards highsided off a rock and took a hard tumble.
After some time on top of the mountain, we descend on the other side into a river gorge along the Quthing River. Some of it is quite steep and I am glad the ABS is taken care of. At one sharp left downward turn, there is a cow grazing at the side of the road. It is chained - to the other side of the road. We ride over the chain.
After some lovely riding along the river with spectacular cliffs above us, we stop for a break. Geoff Russell is worried that Geoff Edwards will cool down and be unable to ride, as he is in pain from his fall. He sends Geoff and Arno ahead to meet the backup vehicle at the refuel point in Mt. Moorosi.
I help Geoff put on his gloves - he is unable to do so himself.
Once Geoff Edwards' bike is on the trailer we are on tar for a while. We make good time and it looks like we will make our accommodation before nightfall. But I rejoiced too soon. The tar becomes "road under Chinese construction" and we tear through construction zones at a pace.
At one place, a fellow puts up his hand to stop Geoff. But the road ahead appears clear, and Geoff starts riding around the chap. The guy nearly dives under Geoff's wheels to make him stop. Reluctantly we stop. What is it this time - a truck doing a u-turn, a crane loading a rock, somebody crossing the road?
We are still pondering, and the tail-enders are joining the group, when an almighty explosion rips through the air. Blasting. The spot where we would have been had Geoff not been stopped is filled with dust and burning debris.
On the whole the big truck drivers are courteous and cautious, and we all make it through the construction zone without incident.
The last stretch to Semonkong is a rough, horrible little road. Just as the sun is about to set, we arrive at Semonkong. A ride through the village, over a bridge over the river and we are at Semonkong Lodge.
I am sharing with Jacques. There is no power so we proceed to the bar by candlelight. It is Frans' birthday today, so he buys the first round.
No big riding today - a rest day at the lovely Semonkong Lodge. Send my laundry in.
We ride out to the Maletsunyane Falls. Henk and Gunther ride down to the edge of the viewpoint, completely forgetting Newton's Law. Their ride back up again was entertaining to say the least.
The oil leak has returned. The left fork is covered in mud and oil. I need to identify the source of the problem, and the first step is to clean the mess. The janitor is not available to ask for a brush, bucket and soap. So I take a plastic dustbin, the complementary shampoo and the toilet brush.
Once the fork and brake caliper is clean, I crack open my medical kit and wrap cotton wool and adhesive gauze bandage around the fork where it enters the fork bridge just above the wheel. Then I tape it up and secure it with a cable-tie. At the very least I will be able to see whether the oil is getting there from the inside or spashed on from the outside.
Geoff had us all report in the afternoon for a surprise. We had to wear our long pants. It was a donkey-ride pub crawl. Our donkeys were all bedecked with an orange cloth that had 'KTM' painted on it. You can imagine the banter and jokes that followed.
We rode through the commercial center of Semonkong. Curiously, all Basotho live in brick houses, but shops are often corrugated iron shacks.
The donkeys really are stubborn and have a mind of their own. Eventually we were all at the first shebeen, where we climbed into the Malutis and enjoyed the local music.
The next pub was opposite the local soccer field. The field was fenced with razor wire (maybe to keep animals out). But it was home to a flock of sheep who were grazing while some players practised. Our donkeys were released into the field also.
We stayed at the second shebeen for much shorter - their music was louder but the speakers were broken and distorting awfully. The regular patrons did not seem to notice.
Four bikes arrived at the Lodge. A 1200 GS, Kawasaki KLR 650, KTM Adventure and Triumph XC800. These four had been up Ongeluksnek the day before us.
In fact, the Triumph was the so-called 'abandoned' one. It had burnt out a clutch, but luckily the riders were being accompanied by a friend in a Jeep, and they managed to procure a new clutch from Umhlanga and fit it in the field.
We crowded around the Triumph to hear the sound of it's triple-cylinder engine. But, like our own 800 that was giving fuel pump problems, this bike would not idle.
This was a day of tar mountain passes. We rode through Roma and Ramabanta, and passed the top of Bushman's Pass where the Roof of Africa ends.
The riding was superb. It is all very well burning rubber around a sanitized track - this was the real world and then some: potholes, rocks, donkey shit, animals and people, all thrown at you in random combinations while you power yourself through tight turns with fatal drops at the edge of the road. Not to mention the photographic mountain scenery.
Geoff had warned us about this. Around a corner there is a small stop sign in the middle of the road. About 30m further are the police. As you approach the stop sign they motion for you to proceed towards them. It's a trap!
You must stop at the stop sign first, otherwise they will fine you for not stopping. Nevermind the traffic rule that has every roadsign suffixed with "unless instructed to do otherwise by an officer of the law".
We all stopped. You could see the disappointment on the traffic officers' faces.
Geoff warned us about this also. Just before we reach Katse, Geoff leads us on a detour to take the old road into Katse. It involves some steep off-track riding.
At one point I hit an unfortunate combination of loose rocks and go down. No biggy. Most of my effort was spent fighting off people trying to stop on the rocky descent to help me pick up my bike.
The dam is very beautiful. It is deep, with the water level at the top of mountains. The edge of the dam is wildly curved as it follows the contours of the mountain peaks and valleys. The main purpose of the dam is to supply Gauteng with water - for which we pay Lesotho R35 million per month.
I am sharing with Arno again, and our bathroom is shared with Graham and Tony who are sharing the room next door.
Geoff takes the 3 smaller-capacity bikes to put in petrol. We ride to a t-junction, and instead of turning left or right, we ride straight up the mountain! This was certainly not a road. The shop was at the top of the village on that slope, and we bought our petrol in 5l canisters.
Geoff had advertised this as the toughest day of the tour. No backup vehicle and a long day. We interrogated Cecil about it at length. In the light of my leaking shock (which by now I had confirmed was leaking under the fork bridge), I was wary of putting the shock under unnecessary strain. I also wanted to do the dam wall tour and visit the botanical gardens - I was quite saturated with hard offroad riding for a while.
So I elected to take a rest day, along with about half the crew. The other half woke up early and set off for their adventure. It was hard to not join them, especially with the teasing and taunting. I even kitted up in case I changed my mind at the last minute.
The dam is an impressive feat of engineering. We toured the bottom, inside, and over the top of it. At one stage we were inside the mountain itself. I was particularly impressed by the pipes that are prelaid to allow them to pump concrete into any cracks that develop in the wall.
After the rest of the tour group had left, we staged a driveby along the top of the wall for Marius (our official photographer) to take pictures of us.
One of my bucket-list items is to see the Lesotho Spiral Aloe. Turns out the Botanical Gardens were 3 blocks away from where we were staying. Pete, Des and myself went for a visit.
Yes, the gardens are nothing at all like Kirstenbosch Gardens, but they had lots of Spiral Aloes (unfortunately just finished flowering), and a number of other plants and some information boards.
We spent some time on a rest bench enjoying the views over the dam.
Unexpectedly early, Bruce arrives. It is only about 4pm. At first I think he had turned back - but he was just the first one home. The ride was somewhat easier than it was during Geoff's recce, but Graham had had an off day (literally). He elected to let Junaid (who had been bikeless the last few days) ride his bike home on the last two days.
Great excitement about the ride, but the riders were tired. The strafdop master (Frans) elected to postpone the evening's proceedings in favour of the the bite of the wit hond at Graaff Reinet the next evening.
Another long day in the saddle. First, we get to ride the magnificent road along Katse dam. Then we ride down a 10km steep pass - perfect fun.
The scenery was beautiful. We stayed on tar through to Maseru. This is where Gunther bade his adieus and turned north for Gauteng. He would be home before we reached Graaff Reinet.
Then on to Sepapus Gate, where we got to check out of a country we had not officially entered. Geoff told a half-truth: we came in via Sani. Gunther had told a full-truth at his border post, and it cost him a considerable delay (apparently Ongeluksnek is impassable).
Once in South Africa, we took some gravel highway shortcuts. After Lesotho it was a joke. There would be a warning sign about a steep descent, and all it was was a slight undulation in the road. Or a warning about curves ahead, and it was virtually straight.
At our fuel stop in Aliwal North, the thunderstorm that had been threatening, broke. Luckily we were mostly under cover at the garage. The rain had stopped when we set off again, and we skirted the bulk of the storm.
At one stage, after we crossed a tar road, I lost sight of Geoff's dust. He had been just ahead of the group of 3 in front of me. I thought that maybe the 3 had not seen Geoff turn onto the tar, and that we were all now barrelling along on the wrong path.
So I stopped to radio Geoff to confirm. Got no reply. But by now I was riding at the back with the slower riders. It's funny how unsettling that can be - instead of powering through turns, you are going a bit slower and then struggle to make the turn. On one turn I was convinced I was going to get badly hurt - I drifted wide, then just managed to avoid the gumpoles with warning arrows, then ended up in the veld with hidden rocks in the grass. Still going quite fast. Luckily I did not hit anything, and ended up on the road again, with Geoff Edwards pausing ahead of me in case I needed help.
Got to Graaff Reinet quite late. Sharing a cottage with Jacques, but in separate rooms. This was to be our last night together as a group on tour.
That night we had a big party. It started with a complementary shot of the last of Graaff Reinet's fine Tequila (this stuff was exported to Mexico, where it was diluted and re-exported as "Made in Mexico"). No salt or lemon - the exquisite taste of this silver Tequila must be appreciated. Then Geoff gave us all a complementary Coffee Tequila shot. And then we handed over to Frans for strafdoppe...
I collected one for having pumped Geoff's tyres at 9:15 the night before - apparently some people were trying to sleep.
Then Frans opened the floor, and John Gillespie took over. He had everyone who rode their bikes to the dam wall tour without ATTGAT straffed. I collected two straffe - one for having started out in full ATTGAT, and then apparently having bowed to peer pressure and not wearing it for the rest of the tour.
Stumbled to bed quite pickled that night.
About 6 of the riders had elected to skip breakfast and leave earlier, in order to stop for breakfast along the way. They pushed their bikes outside and started them in the street - right outside my cottage window!
I was already up and about, but opened my window to shush them loudly anyway, and to complain about the irony of my strafdop the night before for making a noise while people are trying to sleep. As I sat in bed at the window drinking my coffee, Eggie reached in to the window and stole my bedding!
We had a good laugh and soon they were on their way.
The ride home was uneventful. We stopped only to fill up, and at Montagu we filled up for the final time and said our goodbyes.
Most riders had Mitas E07s - these lasted well through the trip, with lots of mileage left at the end.
I had a Metzeler Karroo 2 in front, and am extremely happy with the way it tracks, and the way it is planted in the turns. It has lasted quite well also, with some wear showing on the knobs after about 7000kms.
My Mitas E10 at the back, that started the tour brand new, is totally shot. Not too bad for a full knobbly, to do 5000km of extreme riding in rocky conditions and high-speed tar. But certainly not economical unless you are expecting mud and sand.
John Finch had the only 800GS on the tour. The bike has an intermittent fuel pump problem that is yet to be fixed (a known issue with this model). He struggled a bit more in the loose rocks than those on the big boxers - the 800 is bit more 'revvy' and does not chug along at low speed the way the boxers do.
Most of the bikes on this tour were Adventures. The only exceptions were John, myself (1150), Andre (1200) and Bruce (1200). Our only disadvantage was the fuel range - and this is moot since we had no real issues with this, and fuel stops are a welcome break and rest.
When we ride in a passing zone, where there are two lanes on our side, and one lane for oncoming traffic: I find we tend to ride in the right-hand (overtaking) lane, even when we are not passing vehicles on the left.
This prevents oncoming cars from using our passing lane for overtaking (which they are entitled to do). I feel we should strive to keep left and pass right more than we do.
Some of the riders cut corners in the passes, or go wide into the oncoming lane before tucking into a left-hander:
After a year of trial riding, I could notice
However, the improvements were not as dramatic as those I noticed during the Eastern Cape tour, after having ridden enduro for a year. But maybe, had I started with trials, and not enduro, I might have experienced the same improvements.
Thanks to all those who contributed and/or participated in this tour:
O, how I wish I was there....
I know some of the areas quite well: did Sani Jan. 2011 after our Eastern Cape mountain passes tour with Geoff, plus we have worked on Katse dam wall and some of the tunnels for more than 5 years. A world first is that we installed a lining in the bottom section of the wall, close to the bed rock, which had to act as a 'bond breaker'/crack initiator. When the dam was filled the first time (max. water depth = 170 m) the wall toppled over a bit under the pressure, opening up a crack at our lining (approx. 10 mm wide). This crack was then filled with high pressure grout to make the wall more stable, and more water tight.
More pics here :
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/
Thanks for the report Charles.
I wonder if it is too early to start the plans for next years Tour????
Hey Geoff
What an amazing tour it seems to have been, what do you mean to early to work on next years tour, you are running late plans should have been drafted already. Looks like you guys had some nasty spills.
Thank you charles for the ride report. Shows us all what we missed out on.
Very nice trip report. In detail with pictures. However I do believe pictures do not always reflect the true view of things.
Is there any small clips availible?
Leon, do you mean video clips? We took quite a lot. I have embedded one in the story (summitting Sani Pass), and have a whole lot more. I don't have the video taken by others yet, but believe it will all end up with Trevor to be produced into something.
I will probably be compiling another composite video with the clips I have later.
Thanks for writing the report Charles. It captures the spirit of what we experienced.
I am still sore from my fall. My doctor was not very sympathetic. He said that I will hurt for another three weeks and should just live with it.
The quote for repairs to my bike is R55 731.10. I wonder what the insurance company is going to say about that. 48 months and 70 000km of riding it with no damage and in the 49th month all hell breaks loose in Lesotho.
Geez Geoff, that's hectic. I thought I was in for it with my repair bill of around R5000.
And you still had some riding to do afterwards - you are one tough old codger!
Wow!!! Thanks for a great ride report... Watching the video( a big thank you) as feels as we were part of it beside in spirit and solidarity.. could actually "feel" the mental and physical strain
Makes you want to go out and ride.. then realise just how fit you guys needed to be...
Glad you all came back ok and shared the experience
Great reading Charles, thanks for the report.
Nice report Charles! It was great fun meeting and riding with you guys and thanks for all the tips with the Drift. I really hope to be able to ride with you guys again soon... I will seriously have to find an excuse/opportunity to move to CT.
And thanks Geoff for organising, as before, such a great and well-planned tour. Memories are made this way.
Greetings from Jozi.
Günther
Did not see the video clip first time around. Now the company has blocked it to. Will view it tonight.
Still an excellent trip report.
Excellent report Charles. So many challenges on a long multiday ride in a large group. A big trip throws a lot at you – but as always – there is a plan to fix them! Great to have the tips at the end.
Thank you Charles, for an excellent report on a memorable adventure!
Many thanks to all the participants, especially Geoff Russel and the Back-up crew.
Thanks for the write-up Charles.
Here's some more information from my GPS about our "Wednesday pensioner's ride" up Ongeluksnek Pass into Lesotho.
So we took 3 hours 15 minutes to climb about 700m (5.7km) to the SA/Lesotho border. That's an average gradient of almost 13%!
(ok, you know I can't resist a little sprinkling of statistics )
An absolutely epic ride.
wow, insane ride. well done guys.
Must have been a short stop .
Just read this report again. Love the author's writing style . Makes me feel like I was there again. Good times indeed.
I am doing this exact trip right now but in a 4x4...........missing the bike!!!!!