Archive of BMW Motorrad Club Cape (2006 - 2019)

Gifberg……. In English, Poison Mountain. Sound like a place you’ve always wanted to go. It’s somewhere I’ve always wanted to go, well for a long time anyway. I’ve heard a lot about it and have done tours and trips that have often taken me right past its door, but it was still on my list, un-ticked.

And the karma? Well it has to do with getting permission to go. I had logged onto the BMW website as I usually do when my tea arrives and one of the new posts was by Geoff” catch you if me can” Russell. He has planned a trip to the Gifberg in place of the West Coast Tour and by the time I am halfway through the post, I have already written down what we will need to pack for this trip. Next task was to get the missus onboard.

 I phone said missus and she answers “Hello Warren”. How did she know it was me? I am not sure their receptionist announces who’s on the line. “How did you know it was me” I ask. She says she is looking at the website but not logged on. She saw the trip announcement and then saw that I had just logged in and put her hand on the phone, waiting for this call. She just knew it would not be anybody else but me, asking if we can please get up at sparrows fart again to go and spend two exhausting days riding motorcycles with Geoff Russell. “So can we”. “Yes we can”. It sounded better than when Obama says it. Deal done, now back to the list.

First on the list, our return from the Oasis in the rain showed us we need more kit, winter or rain or just warm or something gloves to be exact.  Anyway, by the end of the weekend before the trip our kit was sorted and I had an Airhawk because my butt can’t take these 500km in one day journeys anymore and my wife loves me enough to care about my butt. We were pretty happy we were more prepared for whatever than we were on the Oasis trip. The last item bought was a bottle of 12 year old Johnny Black as there was going to be no nice bar where we were staying this time.  There will obviously be water available and Geoff has said anything you leave outside will probably freeze, giving you all the ingredients for our favorite drink.

Next I thought it about time my mate Marc should join us on one of these trips, that way it’ll save me having to tell him about it. That took a quick phone call and next minute we have Marc joining us and his wife Heidi and daughter Madison (our God daughter) manning the backup vehicle. So far this is seriously a weekend to look forward to.

The last ingredient needed for an awesome weekend is reasonable weather. During the week this looked like the case and by Friday most weather sites were confirming we were going to have awesome weather……… as usual they weren’t quite correct.

Friday night the bikes were packed and the only thing we needed to do now to go and enjoy the weekend was get up at the crack of dawn, except in winter there is no dawn where the crack usually is or something like that. I do know it is still bloody dark and getting up this early is something I really battle to do. So when I make it to the rendezvous on these weekends, I have already achieved something for the day.

But anyway, we got up and as we made our way outside to get the bikes out, we saw the first indication that the weather boys were perhaps trying to entice some last minute tourists for the World Cup by telling fibs about what the weather is really like. We had mist, pea soup thick horrible mist, and when it is that thick just in our complex, it’s usually worse out there.

We drove over to Marc’s house in Parklands barely being able to see 50 meters ahead. Once we had collected the Ernstzen family and our back up vehicle we headed up the West Coast Road past Melbosstrand and here it was surprisingly clear, but as soon as we turned back towards the N7 it closed in again.

Most folks appeared at the Engen 1 Stop looking like they were sweating from the water all over open visor faces, but everyone arrived safely, had a bite and the first group left at about07H35, with sweeper Rusty disappearing into the mist on the back wheel. Quite an impressive sight Mr Rathbone.

Geoff got us together at about 08H15 for a briefing and thankfully it’s at least light now, but one can still hardly see the N7 from just outside the Wimpy, a distance of around 100 meters. After the briefing we saddle up and take off into the soup. It’s not really that bad, but one cannot go fast enough to clear the water off the visor, so it gets opened and then you have water on both sides of the visor and your face is wet and cold. In fact it is just generally bloody cold in the fog and I am happy for our new gloves. One also has to be fairly careful as some idiots are riding cages in the mist without their lights on.

Natalie at the top of the old pass

Just past Malmesbury, as suggested by Mr Russell it all of a sudden clears. Beautiful and brilliant sunshine. Unfortunately it doesn’t last and before long we are plunged into the other season again with little visibility, rain like fog and biting cold. The whole way to Piketburg in and out of the mist. Somewhere in one of the fog patches I am also sure that I see Rusty flying back the other way.

Geoff Kite

At Piketburg we stop, thankfully in the sun, to stretch the legs and let some air out of the tyres. Then we take our first dirt road next to the N7 and up the old Pikenierskloof Pass, where I finally get my first photo in, partly because it has been too cold and wet, I also had winter gloves on which make pushing the little buttons difficult but mainly because photo opportunities are quite rare on trips led by Geoff Russell. At least now it looked like the mist was behind us and one could clearly see the massive bank of it from the top.

Our sweepers Johan and Tracy

Marc with the fog bank below

Down the other side of the pass on the tar and into Citrusdal, quickly left through the little town which is teeming with people and back onto the dirt next to the N7. This is a really pretty piece of road and at some point Geoff pulls us over for another little break, right next a little dam where the road is tarred for a few meters. Here we discover that Geoffrey Kite has a rear puncture and it is decided to send him back to Citrusdal to see if he can have it fixed. We get hold of Heidi and ask her to go to Citrusdal as there are tubes in the trailer and if it cannot be fixed, they can load the bike. Johan and Tracy go back with him and we carry on at a leisurely pace towards Clanwilliam.

The boss and the missus

Two mad chicks: Same helmets too?

An Afrikaans Kiwi and son

Just pass where the road intersects with the Algeria road I can hear my phone ringing. I think it’s probably Heidi with another problem so I slam on anchors, stop, rip gloves and helmet off and answer. “Hello”. “Hello am I speaking to Mr Warren Ellwood” says a fellow with a heavy accent.  Now I am pissed off. “Please don’t  #$%@#$* phone me again, ever!!!!” I tell the person and cut him off as he starts to tell me about the latest Cell C deal going on. Marc stops next to me as he was sweeping now to see if everything is okay and as I am trying to phone his wife (seeing as I have helmet off and phone in hand) he sort of just falls over. There he is lying in the middle of the road laughing at himself while I am talking to his wife. She’s found the garage but there in no one there. I ask her to carry on out of Citrusdal as Geoff probably didn’t make it into town.

Just after Marc get his bike back up and we are about to set off I hear another bike arriving. It’s Rusty with an amazing story about losing his phone, going back to find it, finding it, and the negotiations that followed to get it back off the person who thought that Christmas had come in early June.

A rare photo of the writer: Clanwilliam Dam in the background

Just before Clanwilliam: The little town is in the distance

My two best friends in the world

Rusty Rathbone: Happy he still has a phone

A little further along we find the group stopped again and Geoff uses my phone quickly to inform Heidi where Geoff is in Citrusdal (different tyre shop) and then we are off, along a very scenic route which goes right along the Clanwilliam dam and into the little town itself where we regroup for a few minutes before heading off the back way towards Klawer, eventually passing the Bulshoek dam. We join the tar again just before Klawer and head towards Vanrhynsdorp, about 35 km away. The stretch of dirt between Clanwilliam and Klawer is also very scenic and most of the time one can see the water canals that stretch over 350km taking water from the Olifantsriver to the areas farmers. I noticed a lot of broken down farm houses along here, for sale maybe?

The Bulshoek Dam near Klawer

The road to Klawer: Our first veiw of the Gifberg

Road to Vanryhnsdorp

Gifberg Mountains

 We were promised the best pizza in Namaqualand and I reckon that’s probably right.  I haven’t had a pizza for the best part of 26 weeks and that pizza was for me as good as I have ever eaten. Phucifino is a delightful little restaurant and I think the owners did really well to get us all fed timorously as both groups arrived just about at the same time. We were also rejoined by Johan and Geoff Kite now back on two wheels.

PIzza anyone

After lunch we split up again and Geoff took our group of town on the tar road heading towards the pass but then right onto a dirt road which eventually took us up the rather steep Kobee pass to a point where we could just admire the amazing view. A dead end for us but well worth the drive up.

Looking down Kobee Pass

Always smiling Leon Lee

Erica and Graham

Confirmation of where we are

After that it was back down the mountain and about half way back to the tar  we turned left onto a little farm road which meandered through the greenest of fields heading towards the rear side of the Gifberg and our destination for the evening. I was really enjoying the riding here as it is not main stream dirt roads and one always feels like one surely needs permission from somebody to ride through here. Where else in the world can you just go along, find a gate, open it, and take the road as if you own it. Amazing!!!

Back from Kobee pass

Really pretty

How lucky are we to be able to ride here

Suddenly I notice the ground is changing, becoming red, softer and I have to stand as it seems we are heading into sort of twee spoor sand. Looking ahead further down the road I see my wife is already down just beyond a gate. I stop, make sure she is okay, she is, just pissed off, help her pick the bike up and brush the sand off her helmet, clothes and bike. Not a bad piece of land actually, nice view anyway. As we are about to set off again I see down the road other incidents have taken place and two bikes are still on their sides with folks helping to “right” them.

Natalie's plot

Erica shows what she thinks about sand

Then for me, the funniest moment of my weekend. Some of the riders are now paddling through the sand and I go back to about half way through it to see if I can help anywhere or just encourage the girls. Our esteemed leader’s wife comes towards me paddling her feet faster than anything I have ever seen and the words that were coming out her mouth could never be put into any form of print. And the whole tirade of foul language was directed straight at her husband for making her ride through the soft stuff.

Eventually we are all through and onto firmer stuff. We catch up with the rest who are waiting and head off to the Waterval resort which is not too far down the road. This resort is a very pretty place and we will definitely have to go back there again to explore a little more. Once everyone had showered and changed the place to be seemed to be Johan and Tracy’s stoop where we chatted until supper. One item discussed was who was going to go and put his GS boot through the hi fi speaker of some rather noisy youngsters nearby. The supper laid on by Johan and Marietta was very good and included snoek all the way out here. After supper folks sat around in groups or mingled having discussions until one by one they drifted off to bed leaving a few late night revelers who carried on until they too felt the sandman come to fetch them, leaving only the G4. That’s right, not the G8, just the G4.  We spent some time solving the world’s problems, (apparently just outside Johan and Tracy’s house and for that we apologize) and all I can say is that we will let everyone know what’s going to happen in the future in due course.  But be ready “times is few”.

Waterval Resort: And the Jack daniels man in the foreground

Our host about to say grace

The spread: Really nice food

The girls waiting patiently 

Chow time

BMW sales talk?: Come to the light side

Not sure whats going on here: But everyone looks amused

The last of the last: Not quite but the G4 was formed from some of these folk 

The following morning it is nice and warm as we go to breakfast but as we are starting to get ready, a familiar mist starts creeping over the mountain behind us and the temperature drops a few degrees almost instantly. Turns out its not such a nice day after all. After unpacking again and refitting jacket liners we head off once more and find out we have to go “past “ the sandy section once again but when we get there Geoff points out a spoor than people can use next to the sand. Some folks decide to go through the sand anyway, I mean practice makes perfect after all. As I clear it I look back to see Marita and her bike wildly lurching, left, then right, then smack the side and ramp onto the spoor next to the road landing just in front of another rider. I still haven’t decided if it was impressive, funny or just plain lucky. You’ll have to ask her.

Stand up, look up: Leon Lee

Darth Vader aka Noeline Russell

We then carry on back to the “main” dirt road but then straight across onto another very nice track where Andy owns property. This eventually leads us back onto the tar road heading towards Vanrhynspass which as we head towards it appears to have the dreaded mist all over its top. But it is an amazing sight riding up to it and I take some pics from the saddle as we are approaching. It is misty at the top but it’s not too bad. It is very cold up here though and I am quite thankful when we burst into full sunlight again.

Approaching Vanrhyns Pass

We stop at a small garage in Niewoudtsville and the 650’s are asked to refuel. Then straight out of town on a dirt road that is a bit boring and not very well maintained. Full of potholes, corrugations and at times a high stone middlemannetjie. It’s also very dusty and with no wind to speak of, it just hangs in the air. Geoff stops us for a breather along here and I get a picture that only men will appreciate. By this time yesterday afternoon is also all forgiven and Noeline is calling Geoff “My man” (Afrikaans) again.  We then carry on and come out on the Clanwilliam Calvinia Road not too far above the Botterkloof pass. While it  is not really much of a pass, the scenery around here makes up for it. I get my third different view of Sneeukoppie in the Cederberg in the last few weeks, we stop at the Doring River for a breather, just missing the other group and then soon we are at the English Man’s Grave near the top of Hoek se Berg where the dirt ends for us on this trip.

All is forgiven: Unless there is more sand

Hear no evil, see no evil...........

Botterkloof Pass

The amazing veiw from just below the Botterkloof Pass

The veiw back from near the Englishmans Grave

Part of me thinks it is a good thing that this piece of road was tarred. It is so beautiful around here and being on tar gives one a chance to have somewhat of a look around. Up and over the Pakhuis Pass where it is absolutely freezing despite the sun being out I find myself assuming the sweeper role and drop back a bit to enjoy the feeling a riding a motorcycle in such fantastic surroundings. I end up following Natalie and Erica into town where both groups have  congregated around the two garages and it appears everyone is just grabbing something to eat right here. After “lunch” we all set off in what would later become quite an impressive convoy of motorcycles straight home along the N7. Just before Piketburg the weather closed in again and although it was cold and very cloudy, it thankfully didn’t rain, well on us northern suburb folks anyway.

The girls heading down the Pakhuis Pass

A few of us went to Geoff’s house to wait for Heidi and the backup vehicle who had had to pick up Pete and Di, seems Pete’s prediction had come true and he didn’t make it home on the new beast. We have a drink or two while Geoff washed bikes as usual and then once Heidi arrived we set off for home and that 40 degree Jacuzzi. Marc, Heidi and Madison joined us and we had some quick supper, another drink in the hot water, then the Ernstzens went home, and I was fast asleep not even half an hour after that. So was my wife, both finished. The end, as they would say of another really brilliant weekend, one of the best ever.

A big thank you to all involved in the planning of this fantastic weekend and to everyone that attended and helped to make it so memorable. Thanks also to two special ladies in my life, our driver and best mate Heidi and back up girl Madison for keeping us all reassured. And last but by no means least I’d like to thank the most special lady in my life. Just for being who you are and for buying me that Airhawk seat even though it was not Christmas or my birthday, or my Chinese birthday, or my Viking birthday , or…….okay that’s enough of my birthday’s mentioned. It made the world of difference to my weekend. Thank you Natalie.

See you all again soon I hope.