Dirty Coloured Passes : BMW Bike Fest 2011

Charles Oertel's picture

Julie hates passes.  Especially dirty ones.  Somehow I had to get her over a few before she realises what is happening, so that I can prove that they are nothing to fear.

We have been looking forward to the BMW Bike Fest 2011 since the end of the inaugural Bike Fest last year.  Finally, it arrived and we set off on a leisurely ride to Montagu for an overnight stop, with some dirt roads thrown in for fun.

Our route is on google maps here.
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Day 1 - CPT to Montagu

Depart Thursday afternoon, along Baden Powell to Somerset West, to avoid holiday traffic.  Up Sir Lowry's Pass, left at Grabouw and along a scenic road to Villiersdorp, then turn right onto a dirt road to Robertson. 

Start of the dirt near Brandvlei DamStart of the dirt near Brandvlei Dam

After Robertson it is the R60 to Ashton and Montagu, with heavy holiday traffic.  We check in to the Blue Mountain Lodge a qaint old place similar to the house I grew up in.  Dinner was at Ye Olde Tavern, a place we had had supper at the week before and the waitress remembered us and even remembered what Julie had ordered before.

Julie lives it up at the Blue Mountain LodgeJulie lives it up at the Blue Mountain Lodge

Day 2 - Montagu to Oudtshoorn

A short distance out of Montagu, turn off the R62 left onto a dirt road to Ladismith.  Here we had some fun - our map shows that we would pass the foot of Ouberg Pass, pass Anysberg, then reach the R62 at Ladismith.  I think the map-maker may have marked the location of Ouberg Pass in the wrong spot.

So, when we find ourselves entering the pass, I think I must have missed the turn to Anysberg.  We do a u-turn (which Julie really struggles with and hates almost as much as she hates dirty passes).  We explore a road that turns into a dead-end after 30km.  Another u-turn.  Explore a branch off that road that ends in another dead-end (a locked gate, severe warning signs, and spikes hidden in the road!).  Another u-turn.

After all those u-turns, we have finished all alternatives other than (a) turn back to the R62 and ride tail-between-legs on tar to Oudtshoorn, or (b) ride over Ouberg Pass and deal with potential other map-making errors and the wrath of my wife (whom I had assured would not have to ride over a dirt pass).

Some screaming later and we are headed over the pass, on promises that we would turn back the minute it got hairy.

It was fun, and soon we were sailing along, following road signs with reassuring notions of heading towards Ladismith.  One day I must get a GPS.

Julie flies along on Brenda ButtercupJulie flies along on Brenda Buttercup

Lunch in Ladismith, then R62 over Huis River Pass to Calitzdorp and Oudtshoorn.  We passed Anne and Andy in the pass.

BMW Clubs Africa Bike Fest

We met up with Julie's cousin Wendy and her husband Tony da Cruz whom we had convinced to buy himself a 650GS so that they could partake in this kind of thing.  Then we registered at Kleinplasie for the Fest.

Wendy and Tony shared our bungalow with us at Kleinplasie.

The Fest was enormous - huge display area with bike vendors, and food stalls, and an enormous marquee.  The goodie-bags had chain lube and bike cleaner, and our very nice golf-shirts, along with all sorts of info, advertising and stickers.  Something like 680 bikes were entered - the largest BMW event of any kind ever in this country.

Day 3 - Swartberg Pass and Prince Albert

We met up with our old friends from last year, Deena and Thilo, and formed our own little riding group that would tackle an easy route that Julie and Tony could handle.  Deena and Thilo were keen to join us as they are not very experienced on their adventure bikes yet.  Deena has a new Dakar now, and no longer rides the KLR650 he had last year.

Deena with his new DakarDeena with his new Dakar

I am to take Wendy as pillion, and lead the group.  I choose a short and scenic route, D3 in the list of available routes for the Fest, and we set off at about 9am on Saturday morning.

6km outside Oudtshoorn on the R62 towards Calitzdorp we turn right towards Lategansvlei and ride along a delightful road through farms and beautiful scenery.  The sweep for that route passes us (Warren and Natalie), as does the medic for the orange route (James).  None of us knew then that James would be dealing with Vanessa's accident along the 'Die Hel' road later.

Wendy, Tony and Deena near LategansvleiWendy, Tony and Deena near Lategansvlei

Eventually we enter the Swartberg pass.  I watch the four bikes behind me carefully to see that they are progressing confidently and I try to time our pace so that oncoming traffic does not encounter us on blind corners.

Wendy is a good pillion, probably from her horse-riding experience, and she loves it when we stand and open up.

We stop frequently at look-out points, because this trip is meant to be fun and an experience, and so that I can monitor the condition of the novices.  Also, so that everyone can take pictures and appreciate the stunning scenery we are part of.

Tony up SwartbergTony up Swartberg

Everyone seems fine, but I am dreading the downhill part - Julie has a fear of riding downhill.  My only comfort is I saw a picture of the down section, and there are stone wall barriers to protect you from going over.  I know this will be a big comfort to Julie and help her get over her fear.

We reach the top of the pass and I stop to celebrate.  Julie does not stop.  I'm not sure whether it is because she cannot stop and has lost control, or whether it is because she does not want to lose momentum and wants to get some of the down section under her belt.  It is the latter.

We pass the turn off to Die Hel, where there is drama happening to Vanessa Hawtrey.  We are reveling in the incredible views and scenery.  We pass a steenbok on a crest silhouetted against the sky.  We stop at another lookout where two airheads are stopped - one of the riders has a prosthetic leg.

At the bottom of Swartberg Pass I pull over for a little celebration.  Ons het die Swartberg gewen!

Happy success at the foot of the Swartberg PassHappy success at the foot of the Swartberg Pass


On to Prince Albert for lunch.  I remember Cheesy going on about the Lazy Lizard and their being famous for something (apple tart), but we stop at the first place we see and have a delicious lunch, in the shade on the grass near a pond with ducks.  We meet Rusty and Gizzy there just as they are leaving.

On departure I am not sure of how to connect to the next part of the route, and ask a local.  She directs me to the tar road (don't they always), instead of the dirt road.  Once I am on the wrong road it is too late, but then I realize that after what we have just ridden everyone probably needs a break and to cover some distance, and it is late, and we should not spoil our memory of the pass with some arbitrary dirt road.

We ride through Meiringspoort.  It is incredible.  Breathtaking.

Deena and Thilo in MeiringspoortDeena and Thilo in Meiringspoort

Julie hits a rhythm in the poort and I can see that she is in the zone around those curves.

We stop for tea in De Rust.  We all get SMSs telling us that the slow race will start at Kleinplasie at 5.  I need to hoof it to get there in time, so take my leave of the group and gap it.

The slow race is an elimination event.  Not many people enter.  A Buell gives us a good run for our money.  In round two I am knocked out by a large fellow on an Adventure who seems to have the balance of a tightrope walker.  He goes on to win, taking the Buell out in the final challenge.

Evening Festivities

We got tickets in our goodiebags to redeem for food at the various food stalls and bar.  I have bobotie, sushi and some pudding.  There is a prize-giving for the slow race (a bike tool kit from Wild@Heart worth about R1000) - one would think more people would give such an event a try.  I hold back my luck for whatever big prize is going tomorrow night in the lucky draw prizes.

BMW SA launches the 6-cylinder 1600 GT road bike.  Not my cup of tea so forgive me for not getting excited.  I am glad this event is organized by Clubs Africa and not BMW itself - the marketing blah is short.  When will corporate marketers realize that their customers do not care how much market share their company has, nor how fast they are growing, nor which of their dealers is the 'best' (where best = most sales, not better service or better advice)?

Our group went to bed early, we had a good day.

Day 4 - Rooiberg Pass

The route description and map is designed as a supplement to the GPS routes that were supplied.  I have no GPS and so have to skip the intricacies of the route and stick to what I know I can hit by hand.

So we take the R328 towards Mossel Bay and stop for breakfast at Eight Bells.  Robinson Pass was beautiful and fun.  Thanks to the rider who passed us and asked why we skipped the little loop on the GPS route through a game reserve where he saw elephant and lion.

Thilo and Deena bring up the rearThilo and Deena bring up the rear

We took the turn right towards Herbertsdale at Ruitersbos (past the entrance to Bonniedale farm that was part of the orange route).  Eventually we do Cloetes pass, which turns out not to be the tar pass I thought it was and is a lovely dirt road.  I recognize the causeway over the river because I have been lost here before.

Julie about to climb a steep pass out of the valleyJulie about to climb a steep pass out of the valley

We covered some roads Julie had ridden during the CABC, but that all ended when we passed the Rooiberg Lodge and headed towards the Rooiberg Pass.  I had no idea what was in store, though I think the group believed I had done this all before.

The first section was quite exposed, but we were still fresh and sailed over.  But the pass just went on and on and on.  Eventually there were more and more hairpin bends on increasingly sandy roads.  After each turn I was expecting Julie not to emerge out of the dust, but she soldiered on, standing up all the way.  After a particularly bad turn I stopped, and counted the seconds.  No Julie.  Wendy off the pillion, I start turning around when Julie comes through.  She stalled on the turn but managed to recover.

But, Tony, who was right on her tail, had not reached her when she stalled.  I go back to find that he had had a fall when his rear slipped out on a slippery turn.  Thilo and Deena helped him pick up the bike and we have a break so he can recover his composure.  No damage and just a few bruises.

We are still on our way up.  I am dreading the descent for Julie and Tony's sake.  It turns out to be not very steep and we make our way down successfully.

Descending Rooiberg PassDescending Rooiberg Pass


We see Calitzdorp in the distance and the road is long.  We are desperately hungry and tired.  Finally we reach an oasis where we have iced coffee and slap chips to fortify ourselves.  It is nearly supper time so we do not have lunch, and in any case we are getting late for what I imagine will be another little competition at Kleinplasie.

Ons het die Rooiberg gewen: Charles, Julie, Thilo, Wendy, Tony, DeenaOns het die Rooiberg gewen: Charles, Julie, Thilo, Wendy, Tony, Deena

Again we hoof it the 50km back home, and I get to the competition just in time.

The U-turn Competition

I arrive to a course of cones fairly wide apart, with an enclosed area on a slopey lawn where we are to do a u-turn and ride back through the cones.

Without even looking at the course I ride it.  The cones are easy even though I have not practised for almost a year.  At the u-turn I am not quite sure what is required - do I go through the last two cones, or past them?  At the last I realize I must pass them, and need to turn extra sharply.

Luckily I make it to the next round.  Julie agrees to ride pillion with me through the course just for fun, so we enter against the likes of Roger Kane-Berman and his pillion, and Marchant and his pillion.  Julie also rides pillion with Andyman.  I am impressed that she is feeling up to it because she has always declined before.

The next round is much harder - the cones are two paces apart, and the u-turn area is tightened up also.  I am still not on form and end up tie third, after not quite making the u-turn, and missing a few of the cones.

The two of us that are tied get called for a play-off to determine 3rd place.  The other guy rides a very good score and I realize I must up my game.  As I pull away and stand up, I finally hit the zone.

Mr.Badger and the conesMr.Badger and the cones

Somehow Mr.Badger snakes his way around all the cones - no skipped cones, no cones ridden over.  Then the u-turn.  It is near impossible to make, but somehow, it all comes together and I make the turn to cheers from the crowd.  Encouraged I finish the cones cleanly.

If I had ridden like this the first time I would be a winner - but this was for third place.  Also, I had the benefit of riding the course twice.

Final Festivities

The big bash was in the Marquee, and we could eat as much braai, salads, bread and spreads and pudding as we liked.  There was another spectacular lucky draw, and I held back my luck just to give others a fair chance.  We bid our fellow travelers farewell and exchanged contact details.

Day 5 - to Plett

A leisurely ride to George via the Outeniqua Pass, then on to Plett via the N2 in drizzly conditions after breakfast near Herolds Bay.

Julie had a sidestand incident while reversing her bike in one of the lookout areas on the pass - her foot slipped on a bottle-top and she dropped the bike.  Broken indicator and bruises.  But she soldiers on and seems to be enjoying the bike and the passes.

Thoughts on the Bike Fest

  • I've said it before - this is one of the very best bike events ever.
  • This is about the socializing and spectacular riding, with people from all over the country, on all kinds of BMW bikes.
  • The facilities are superb, yet cost effective.  You are not paying a fortune to have BMW Marketing advertise their stuff to you.  This is done by club members for club members.
  • You choose which rides you want to do, and whom you want to ride with, and when.  The organizers provide medics and sweepers for each route, so you have backup without the hassle.
  • Next year the event will be at a different venue - purely for variety.  We are definitely signing up and making an event of it.

Comments

Tony's picture
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Joined: 2008/08/24

Great trip report Charles. Clearly you had a blast.

 

A bend in the road is not the end of the road... unless you fail to make the turn. ~Author Unknown

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Joined: 2007/06/25

I Concur, but Charles you forgot to mention that Julie pillioned with Andy as well, the only time he cleared, the common denominator is Julie, Excellent!!! 

Think before you ink.

Trust is the most valuable asset.

I have the rest of my life to get old.

John Geldenhuys's picture
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Joined: 2011/01/31

Nice report mate.

Had to laugh reading the Ouberg Pass section. Was in a similar position when i was there a few weeks back, but once over the pass, the road is great.

So BikeFest is on the cards for next year!!

Charles Oertel's picture
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Joined: 2007/04/14

Added a video clip of the u-turn competition to the trip report.  Try it and let me know how it works.

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John Geldenhuys's picture
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Joined: 2011/01/31

Works good.

Nice skill there! ;)
I may have to start practising....;) 

 

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Joined: 2009/12/09

Great report Charles - really related to it as a week earlier two friends and myself went Montague - Ouberg to almost Ladismit - crossed the R62 - then Van Wyksdorp and Rooiberg to Calitzdorp (lunch at Dorpshuis) - then Groenvallei to Swartbergpas and then down to Die Hel where we slept. The following day to Prins Albert (brunch at Lazy Lizard), then on to Meiringspoort, De Rust, Uniondale to De Vlugt and on to Plett where we slept for night two. Back to Cape Town via George, over the pass to Oudtshoorn to return to CT on the R62. It was as good as it gets!!

Yes, your video works perfectly!

Rgds

Jakobus  

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Charles Oertel's picture
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Joined: 2007/04/14

Wow Jakobus, nice route.  It's all the best routes from the Bike Fest in one go.  Julie and I had done the Uniondale/De Vlugt thing last year when she was pillion, but she did not feel up to it yet riding her own bike this time.  On the up side, Outeniqua Pass is so wonderful on a bike that it deserves to be ridden many times over.  Even Julie loves it despite her fear of passes.

On the way out and coming home I turn off the tar at Robertson and take the dirt to close to Villiersdorp, then tar to Grabouw.  It makes the last part of the trip beautiful and interesting and skips the Worcester leg on the N1 (I wish there was a way to skip the N2 Somerset West section also).

Committee: Webmaster / Ride Captain

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Joined: 2009/09/28

(I wish there was a way to skip the N2 Somerset West section also).

 

You mean to say that u do not know Charles???????????

Charles Oertel's picture
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Joined: 2007/04/14

Don't tease me - and don't say I should go into Gordon's Bay and around - by that time my bike has the smell of home in its nostrils ;-)

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Warren Ellwood's picture
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Joined: 2007/06/18

Very nice report Charles. 

"Before you speak, ask yourself, is it kind, is it necessary, is it true, and does it improve on the silence?"