Archive of BMW Motorrad Club Cape (2006 - 2019)

Early in 2014 my wife decided to do an extended tour together with her daughter. Daughter would complete her studies during 2015, after which she would not be able to do such a tour for a number of years.

“Great idea!”, I said.

“Would you like to go along?” mom asked.  Then an idea jumped into my mind.

“Uhmmm…  No, it would not be the same for you if I go along. This is a mother-daughter affair. I think I would rather dig into my bucket list and take GeelKameel for a trip”.

So gese’, so gedaan.  Twaalf dae is nie te versmaai nie!

While they arranged visas and bookings, I studied maps & routes. I planned to decide on a route & then invite friends to go along. Eventually arrangements beyond my control upset all my plans and I took to the road solo.

GeelKameel took off on 15 December, accompanying a young friend who bought a Honda TransAlp 700 (a very lively and capable bike, on-road and off-road, I discovered) to their farm in Patensie.

Sir Lowries Pass, Swellendam, Zuurbraak, Tradouws Pass took us to a coffee break at Country Pumpkin in Barrydale.

From Barrydale via the Brandrivier detour (a favourite of mine) to Cloetespass .

Far below, the bridge over the Gouritz river and the very steep descent leading to it.

Overnight stop at Vleesbaai.

Next morning very early off again via George and the old Montague Pass.  This pass is very pleasant to ride, good surface and splendid scenery.

 

The train bridge high up in the pass.

 

After the leasurely Montague Pass, we took no prisoners through the Langkloof.

At Humansdorp we turned left onto R330 and after about 7km left again onto the R332 dirt road towards Droeekloof and Patensie. Good road surface, few patches of loose pebbles and some rain damage here and there.

 

This road is worth riding instead of the tarred road via Hankey. Lots of variation in vegetation and scenery. This time we only saw farming animals, but on previous occasions I saw kudu and duiker.

Close to the north side of Patensie, my friend went off the road into clearly uncharted domain. Then it struck me – he took to the farmroads where he grew up. Some exciting twists and turns where I really had to concentrate to keep up (and keep right side up!)

 

Overnight with friends at Tierhok farm, Patensie. Great company and great hospitality, as always.

Then I started the main part of the tour --- Zuurberg Pass, Ann’s Villa, Smaldeel (Fort Beaufort), Fullershoek Pass (Balfour), Baviaansrivier (no, not Baviaanskloof) and De Beers Pass near Tarkastad. Then blacktop all the way to Bothaville to visit my brother & sister in law. Two or three days in Bothaville and back to Cape just before Christmas.

Zuurberg and Ann’s Villa has long been on my bucket list. The names sound rather mystical to me, so I decided I have to go there. Fullers Pass went onto the list after I saw Trigve’s reference (http://www.mountainpassessouthafrica.co.za/) to Fullershoek pass on our Forum.

 From the N2 towards PE, veer off left on R334, through Uitenhage then left onto R335, past Addo and Coerney. Few km on you see the Zuurberg Pass sign beckoning you to turn left.

The Zuurberg pass is quite long – best part of 20km. The first few km climbs a little bit, then drops slightly, then climbs steadily to the start of a long winding road all along the edge of two valleys.

 

 

 

The first 10 km of this dirt road is in a perfect condition, even after the climb begins. It becomes bit narrower and more winding towards the crest, where the Zuurberg Mountain Inn and other hospitality venues are, but good all the way.

During the (moderate) climb, you see stunning scenery, wide vistas and, near the crest, some dense vegetation.  At the crest you pass through what appears to be a cutting right through a massive rock. Baie mooi!

 From here a long winding road circumvents an impressive valley far below.  The road is narrower and clearly less maintained than the first climb. The Zuurberg pass actually consists of the southern climb, then a long (20km?) more or less level road along the edge of a valley, followed by the rather short descent on the northern side. I would rate the road around the valley as quite greenish most of the way. Bit orange in places, but nothing much.  No sand, no mud. Good grip all the way.  In wet conditions it may be very orange.

The rocks and ridges are often pretty rough, but presented no problem.

But the pass is not over yet, some more places that really feel like a pass

 

 At some point I noticed an airstrip far below, with an aeroplane standing at one end of the strip. I found it amazing to actually stand on terra firma, in the bundu, and look down on an aeroplane.

At the most western apex of the road, I took a bit of a detour, ending against the gate of the Elephant Back Safari Lodge. A little speaker and sign: "press to enter". No, me not press button, message  not for me. 

 Backtrack and continue.

The signboard was not very clear.

During a brief water stop on the northern side of the valley, I heard an aero engine running. Lo and behold --- far below me the airstrip (again) and an aeroplane ready to take off !!!  A short distance from the air strip I saw the buildings of the Safari Lodge --- looks to me that here you Safari in style, elephants and aeroplanes in one sweep!

The remainder of the plateau I was greeted by cattle, baboons, green grass and some rough patches.

 Zuurberg Village? (I did not see any life here) 

 

The quite short descent on the northern side brings you to Anns Villa.

 An entrepreneur named John Webster from PE bought the farm in 1854 and built Ann’s Villa in its present form in 1864, four years after the Zuurberg pass was opened. The building was named after his wife Ann, who died at the age of 46, having borne 14 children in her lifetime. Situated at an ideal spot at the foot of the Zuurberg route to PE, Ann’s Villa provided accommodation (seven rooms) and boasted with services like blacksmith, wheelwright, bakery and shop.

On the day of my visit I could not see any movement there (week before Christmas) and gates closed. Pity, because it appears that there is much to see, amongst others a museum with a well preserved blacksmith workshop. A stop-over here went back into the bucket list!

 

From here to the R400 (dirt), across the N10 to Riebeeck-Oos and Grahamstown (R400 and R350).

Riebeeck-Oos is a very tiny rural town. The beautiful church building, simple garden and quality fence symbolises the history of a once prosperous community (that could afford to build such a church). Looking at the doors and footpaths, one can see that presently not many feet walk along there anymore.

And it appears to be a very very peacefull place to live . . . .

Some more dirt R400 and tar R350 for quick refuel  & a takeaway lunch in Grahamstown. From Grahamstown onto the R67 towards Fort Beaufort.

On this road you ride through the Ecca Pass, a long and winding descent going east and then a somewhat less winding climb out the other side. It is quite thrilling to power through the corners, especially going up through the southern section.

The original pass was part of the Queens Road between Grahamstown and Fort Beaufort. It was built in the late 1700s by Andrew Geddes Bain.

Two photos taken centuries apart, from approximately the same spot

Note the old Queens road is visible below the modern tar road.

About 15km before Fort Beaufort I took the dirt road DR 02059 to Smaldeel. I grew up in this area and I really enjoyed riding along. The farmsteads, vistas and landmarks all seemed to say “Hello, welcome back, ‘haven’t seen you for some time!”

The first 12km of the road was abnormally rough and washed away. They had 100mm of rain in one hour the previous week. Ridges and rocks were exposed, driffies were really rocky and rough.

Onto DR 02467, at the border fence of the farm where I grew up.

 The signs on the post are now very very rusted and faded, but the memories are as fresh as ever.

I stopped at Rietfontein homestead, the home of my entire youth and many years beyond.

The original building was a fortified outpost,  built from local stone by the British during the Border Wars in the time of Lord Charles Somerset. The house was enlarged by my grandfather in 1924, covering most of the original shape of the fortified house. The outbuildings are very well preserved. All ceilings in the original house as well as in the (older) outbuildings are yellowwood!  Even the floor of the shed was yellowwood. My dad replaced the floors with concrete and had furniture made from the wood.

Sadly, the farm was sold in 2000, after having been in the family for 99 years.

 I stopped for water at the “onderste windpomp”.

 

The water from this borehole is very pleasant to drink. By far the best of all the waters on the farm. In fact, this borehole has never stopped providing water during any drought. In really bad times the neighbouring farms fetched water here. 

From Rietfontein farmstead to Fort Beaufort (22km on DR 2461) and up the Katriviervallei (R67) to Blinkwater, where the Fort Fordyce Reserve and the FullersHoek Pass is.

FullersHoek Pass was the most pleasant surprise of the day. For many years I lived in the area, yet never knew about the FullersHoek Pass.

Just west of Blinkwater, you turn north onto a dirt road at the signpost marked Fort Fordyce.

The road is something better than tweespoor and short of wide dirt road. Easy enough to ride.

After a few km the climb starts and the vegetation becomes higher and bushier. Trees begin to tower above you. 

 

 A deserted entry control. 

Pleasant riding, wonderful atmosphere. The purr of the engine below and a huge smile inside the helmet.

The sun, the twists in the road and the overhanging trees play with shadows as you go along. The pleasant feeling in my mind is hard to describe. Something between bliss, freedom, excitement and content.

At the summit the roads and the map I had was bit confusing, but I did end up on the correct road.

I knew it was quite a long trek to Adelaide. The road was tweespoor and mostly very disturbed by tracks made by vehicles during recent rain. I was very relieved to find plenty dry road among the ruts and stretches of water.

 

 A lapse in concentration and a most basic mistake by me caused a sidestand incident. Fortunately no damage or injury. While crossing over a deepish rut, I hesitated and then pulled full front brake....

 

Frames from a video clip, for me to remember. In slow motion....

The road seemed to never end and I became bit worried about time and distance to Bedford/Baviaansrivier where I was to stay at a farmhouse, arranged by friend of a friend.

I came across a very friendly man, presumably a local labourer on a farm. He assured me I am on track to Adelaide.

 “Ja meneer, jy gaan sooooontoe om en by Post Retief se afdraai gaan jy daaikantoe”

 The rest of the road improved steadily and the Post Retief to Adelaide road was good green dirt.

Adelaide to Bedfort to Baviaansrivier was all tar (R63).

Late afternoon at Bedford my fuel looked good and I was looking forward to the farmstay that was quite off the beaten track. Beyond the farmstay was the section I really wanted to see --- De Beers Pass, Spring Valley and Volstruisnek.

Entering the Baviaansrivier farming area from Bedford side

I found the Glen Lynden Church (built 1828) and (as per instructions), then carried on for 6km and left into the bush onto a real tweespoor for 6km. 

That is where I should find my host. 

Wonderful  6km into real bundu. I saw bosbok and takbokke (wats dit in Ingels?) on the way.

At 5.8km I found not a farmstead but a locked gate!!!  Padlock on my side, which means it was locked by people leaving the area. No cellphone signal, not a soul in sight.

Okey, back to the road.

It was growing dark and I considered my options. Going back to Bedford or carry on to Spring Valley (or camp for the night). I decided Spring Valley is closest. I may be lucky to find a B&B along the way. Fuel is marginal but seems okey.

Soon it was real dark and I was crawling along at about 60km/h, wary of animals that I could easily ride into. Fortunately I have good driving lights fitted. The road was very narrow and bushes encroached onto the road.

Okey, vasbyt en ry voort.

Besides the tenseness and anxiety of avoiding collision or falling, the ride was really something special. One of the rides I will remember for many years. I saw many animals, appearing ahead in the patch of light, looking at this noisy thing approaching, then they would disappear back into the bush. Kudu, takbok (wats dit in Ingels?), duiker, a jackal and rabbits.

Somewhere I came across two men who dismounted their horses, waiting for me to get closer. They dismounted because they were worried that the horses would be frightened by the motorbike.

“Ja meneer, Tarka is diekant toe. Dis nog sestig kilometer. Nee, by Spring Valley is gn slaapplek nie. Meneer moet maar deurdruk Tarka toe”

I glanced at the fuel gage. I am on the last bar. When will the yellow light appear? I know I can stretch the yellow light for 40km. So, ons hou maar duim vas!

Unfortunately no pictures because the batteries of my Drift (helmet mounted) camera and photo camera were flat and the cellphone a bit deep into the luggage.

So, I continued on the narrow, winding road until at last I reached the northern exit of Baviaansrivier.

Soon after that Spring Valley. Sure, no chance of accommodation.

Forty km to go and no yellow fuel light yet. But soon the yellow light greeted me. I hoped to make Tarkastad. It was past 10 in the evening. I may find the whole of Tarka asleep!!

At last an indication that Tarka was close ---Blanco is not far from Tarkastad

 At twenty past ten that evening I rode into Tarka. Yellow fuel light in full glow for a long time. I stumbled on the Royal Hotel.

I was very relieved to reach safety after more than twelve hours and more than 650 km.  And surviving the night ride unscathed. The fact that I saw almost nothing of of Baviaansriver, zero of the De Beers Pass and no Volstruisnek did not matter that much – good reason to return someday.

I walked into the empty foyer of the Royal Hotel. From somewhere a night watchman appeared, some while later a young girl/receptionist.

Her story was short & sweet: “Yes, we have a room. You have to pay R300 to book in. We do not accept card or checks. You go to Caltex, there is a money machine and they have food there”

At Caltex (the only other sign of life I could see in Tarka) there was fuel (obviously) and a small burglar barred window. Behind the window was a friendly man that had to offer: three pies and some cans and bottles of cool drinks.

I had a pie for dinner.

Back at the hotel I booked in, parked GeelKameel in their secured parking, had a bit of a chat with the hotel nightguard (sitting on a bench on the voorstoep, nogal), took a long bath & slept like a log.

Next morning the long trek to Bothaville. But that is another story.

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Reflecting on the trip so far, a number of thoughts of note.

First of all – do not grab a handful of front brake on dirt roads. The importance of the dangers of grabbing front brake on dirt is the first rule I tell any inexperienced rider venturing onto dirt. And here I am, reaping the fruit of my own tarnished golden rule!

Secondly, plan your fuel stops as much as you plan the route. Unexpected extra distance can arise very easily. Rather fill up at quarter tank than fill up near empty.

Thirdly, I spent no time at many potentially interesting places. Anns Villa being one of them. The Fort Beaufort historic museum, monuments and historic sites along the route all went past in a blur. I would have loved to see the inside of the Riebeeeck-Oos church and find out about the history of the town. On the other hand, my plan was to do long distances, which precluded time consuming stops.

As I have found time and again, 300 to 350km from dawn to dusk is a good target. That allows longish stops along the way, enabling you to see places and meet people.  And you have plenty time to settle at the overnight stop before darkness falls. More than 350km a day means you rush past many interesting places & people.

Fourthly, I need to go back to Anns Villa to see more of it. Maybe do an overnight stop there.

Finally, the Eastern Cape offers the most amazing surprises you can imagine. Even tiny inconspicuous names offer unexpected history, scenic rides and new experiences.

At the back of my mind an idea is brewing: go to the Eastern Cape for a week, stay at one or two places at a time and do outrides.