Dates: 22 April through 03 May 2015
Group: 16
Group Leader and tour organiser: Geoff Russell
Riders:
Rider | Vehicle |
Geoff Russell | 1200GSA |
Andy Connell | 1200GSA |
Alec Lester | 650Dakar |
Fanus Schoeman | 660 Yamaha Tenere |
Juno King | 650 Sertao |
Laslo Walter | 1200HP2 |
Bill Winter | 1200GS |
Alf Schroder | 800GS |
Gerrit Nieuwoudt | 800GS |
Harley Gibson | 1200GS |
Thomas Friess | 650 XChallenge |
Marc van der Mark | 1200HP2 |
Steve Jones | 1200GSA |
Craig Broadfoot | 1200GS |
André Ferreira | 1200GSA |
Anne Connell | (backup vehicle VW Amarok sponsored by NTT VW Paarl) |
Ferdie Muller | (temporarily joined us on a Yamaha Super Tenere XT1200Z ) |
“Come and join your fellow BMW Club riders on another unforgettable Off Road Tour to Lesotho. This Tour will probably be the last opportunity to ride many of the "dirt" roads in Lesotho and will include Sani Pass that will be tarred shortly” was the teasing invite sent out by Geoff Russell in January 2015. Within a few hours the tour was nearly fully booked.
The Tour was planned in such a way that we only needed to take 6 days leave, although the Tour duration was 12 days. Planning this trip was a mammoth task performed by Geoff. We crossed many challenging passes and border posts such as Sani Pass, Kotisephola Pass, Menoaneng Pass, Thaba Tseka, Katse Dam, the Village Chiefs Road, Maletsunyane Waterfall, Semongkong, Mathabeng Pass, Rama's gate (a border post perched on a solid rock outcrop), Quaches Neck,and many more.
This was a tour full of breath-taking views, crazy humour, smelly boots, challenging riding, many side-stand incidents and several falls, including the Maletsunyane Falls. Personalities were eventually bared, and the group developed its own unique and quirky dynamic. We started off with clean faces and frozen smiles full of anticipation and/or trepidation and ended off in a very smart hotel too scared to sit down for fear of dirtying the linen, grinning from ear to ear.
A huge thanks to Geoff who planned the trip and led us up and down the many rocky paths and somehow kept us all together! Also to NTT VW Paarl and Gerrit Nieuwoudt for sponsoring the backup vehicle and for surprising me with its capabilities!
Day 1 – The Convergence
Wednesday, 22 April 2015
Unusually the full group did not start at the starting point together – much to Geoff’s dismay. Work forces and bike forces dictated that the group would gather en route via Graaff Reinet, Underberg and Katse Dam. The dynamics of the group take longer to “settle” when this happens.
However, the core of the Lesotho group met bright and early at the Winelands Engen on the N1 and proceeded with bellies full of Wimpy breakfast.
I understand that in Worcester somehow Bill and Harley got separated from the main group due to the lack of a Thumbs-Up. Whereupon Harley’s bike followed the route (all by itself mind you) to Robertson, while Bill called Um Big Chief to say they were following a route. In Robertson Bill spotted Um-Big-Group, waved and this was translated by Um-Big-Group to Um-Thumbs-Up, whereupon Um-Bigger-Group departed in Great Haste. Um-Harley-Bike was looking for a lovely coffee shop it knew and proceeded in that direction…. Um I don’t know where they converged in the end but Um-Coffee-Group was made to understand that Um-Big Chief was not too happy and that this would eventually translate into the “dreaded” Strafdoppe (Wit-Hond no less) at Graaff Reinet.
Meanwhile, Marc was making his way to Oudtshoorn with his HP1200 (has a bigger fuel range on the back of a bakkie), Fanus was needing to sort out a water leak problem at his Mossel Bay home, Andy was fighting with delayed planes and customs in Mozambique, and Alec was planning a late departure from Durban the following day…. Oh, and André was still handing in his leave papers at his offices.
I don’t know what transpired at the lovely Cambedoo Cottages in Graaff Reinet that evening, but Andy & I and Fanus arrived at more or less the same time long after dark sometime. We hurriedly ate our supper which had been kindly kept by the establishment while some frozen bikers hurriedly unpacked their luggage, not having understood the meaning of “the backup bakkie will be very late – please bring set of clothing for evening”. Good night all….
Day 2 – Grin and Bear it - Graaff Reinet to Underberg all tar – ±730kms
Thursday, 23 April 2015
We woke bright and early because Cambedoo didn’t realise that a large rooster had landed in their midst the night before. Unsuspecting guests, not part of the group, were woken at 5am by this enthusiastic rooster. No one started packing, but suddenly everyone was packed ready for breakfast by 7am. The bakkie was packed and unpacked. Small flat tog bags suddenly swelled to double the size and weight and there was even a large suitcase on wheels!
After a lovely breakfast we stood around for the usual day’s briefing from Geoff. Tar all the way around the back main roads via Queenstown, Kokstad to Underberg. Potholes, stop-go’s and cloudy weather; “imperative that we get to our lodgings in Underberg before dark otherwise there would be difficulties; imperative that we stay together while the HP2s and little bikes refuel every 200kms or so”. Gerrit to be sweeper, remember to wait for the thumbs-up; don’t worry about the bakkie at this point, it’s got the routes, it knows where to go….
We went through many potholes and stop-goes. Having a longer fuel range in the bakkie, I didn’t stop at all the fuel-stops and was passed time and again by Geoff and his group of Wingmen, then the slower groups. At one point we had to overtake a Circus on the move to Who-Knows-Where in the middle of nowhere.
By Queenstown, the weather had become decidedly chillier, the bikes stopped somewhere and everyone donned rain jackets to ward off the icy breeze. A longer coffee stop was necessary in Queenstown just to warm up, while I ironically tried to find ice for the cooler box. I could see Geoff’s ETA stretching out, but there was no way to cut the tar route… (He did cut out a beautiful little dirt section after Matatiele, though). Lady Frere was still stuck in its time-warp – the same dogs and cows still trying to cross the main road and the same bakkies and taxis still trying to park and overtake at the same time – as the year before. In Kokstad it started to drizzle. We regrouped at the dirt road turnoff to Penwarn Country Lodge just outside Underberg. Refuelling would only take place the following morning to save time. The sun had set….
Then followed the dirt road in the rain and dark to the lodge. I couldn’t really see the surroundings, but I guessed we were circumventing a lake or dam and that there was wildlife, because twice a buck streaked through my headlights. We arrived, wet and muddy at the lodge, which was suddenly plunged into darkness – yes, even in Underberg they have the dreaded load-shedding, even if you’re mostly off the grid. We were warmly welcomed and allocated our comfy rooms. Several Kaggel fires were burning and we chilled out around them. Alec was supposed to have joined us at this point, but was still MIA… We had a lovely buffet-style supper of curries, stews and all sorts of delicious delicacies. Steve was still looking for his deep-fried ice-cream and custard, and telling stories of how he’d grown up in the area, in fact it could have been right at this very lodge… ja Steve, give or take 20kms. Anyway we discovered that Steve had actually come a full circle in his short life and he was now at the turning point to Who-Knows-Where. Steve’s Life Lesson No 1: Decide What to do at the Turning Point. We have a Philosopher in our midst. We just have to train our resident Photographer to keep his helmet on when he stops to do photo shoots…
Day 3 – Top Box Off and Helmets On and Don’t Forget to Look Up – Underberg via Sani Pass and Thaba Tseka to Katse Dam ±250kms – ALL day ride
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Friday, 24 April 2015 Penwarne to Katse Lodge 258 km
Steve’s Life Lesson No 2: Repeat Life Lesson No 1; repeat everything you say or do to emphasise the meaning and the lesson and to let the lesson sink in.
Translated: When you get to a turning point, decide what to Do, Find your resolve and see it through, no matter what; stand up and face your nemesis – there is no going back.
We awoke to the rooster crowing at 5am – somehow it had made its way to Penwarn along with us. This again set off the whole lot of roosters who were actually residing there. Steve, being an early riser, went in search of fresh air to fill his lungs with smoke. He accidentally sat on the couch which awoke the sleeping form of someone in a bag. Alec Lester emerged from the sleeping bag! He’d arrived after 11pm in the pouring rain along treacherous roads. No one had been awake to welcome him and show him to his room, so he’d almost pitched his tent (which he’d brought with him) but was too tired, and settled for the couch and his sleeping bag. Our Unassuming Man had arrived.
The crowd who were sleeping in the chalet 1km away emerged with the bakkie, and the packing began. Suddenly the bakkie was full to overflowing with top-boxes, boots, helmets, goggles – anything extra in other words. I might add that most of these items remained in the bakkie for the rest of the tour. Lesson No 3 – if in doubt don’t pack it unless it can fit on your bike for the duration. I watched the bakkie sink lower and lower.
I must add that once it was daylight, we were stunned by the awesome views and the tranquillity of Penwarn. Another wonderful place to return to with loved ones!
We nervously or excitedly sat down to a delicious breakfast – eggs uneasily making their way into tummies.
Last night it had rained.
Lesson No 4: Today’s rain is tomorrow’s mud. This pertinent lesson had awoken poor Geoff at 2am and when he finally drifted off before 5am he discovered that the rooster was residing next door! Nightmare No 1: Sani Pass turned to mud. Warning No 1: If you see a colourful Ostrich Feather in a helmet, expect a giant rooster!
We refuelled in Underberg and made our way to the foot of the pass.
Unfortunately it had turned into a mud bath and it took us over an hour just to get to the border post at the “bottom” of the pass. All I can say is that fried eggs became scrambled eggs. The other point to note is that the camaraderie of helping fellow bikers in distress is what surely glues such a trip together. Lesson No 5: Even if you are last, if you just hang in there, you will still get there.
At the bottom border post, Ferdie Müller, a friend of Steve’s joined us on his fully packed Honda. We didn’t know much more about him, but I was sure I’d find out later.
We continued our way up the pass, some stopping to take photos of the magnificent views and mountains. I think this pass was first and foremost in everyone’s minds and on everyone’s bucket lists. Had we previous experience of the passes to come, this one would surely have been a doddle. Yes, they are about to tar this wonderful pass.
At the top of the pass, the bakkie decided not to start again, something having rattled loose, or not working because of crossing the border. Geoff pushed on with some of the group while some stayed on to troubleshoot. Eventually the bakkie started and was not switched off again until arrival at our destination.
The other side of Sani is a mind-blowing experience of Chinese road works. They have constructed a floating road to cater for the shifting soil and rocks. An engineering feat. Ask Juno – he knows about this. Stop-go’s were informal, and if you sighted a large truck, you simply stopped at the nearest resting point and waited.
By now, Geoff had cut the route, having had far too many delays. My GPS became unreliable and I had to keep insisting on the Thumbs-up for the bakkie as well. The roads became partially tarred and pot-holed. Things started to rattle loose on bikes, and the bakkie was flagged down for tools. Eventually the Sani Pass Last Group caught up with us, having waited to sort out comms with the Bakkie-Fixing-Group before departing from the Lesotho entrance point.
As we turned off onto a “short-cut” dirt road, it started to rain and hail heavily. No worries, this was the short cut. Well, the short-cut turned into a long-cut of road works, goat tracks and narrow roads. The Frozen thumbs-up could not be seen and the bakkie followed the confused GPS Jane into a diamond mine, did a 10-point turn and decided to plot a new route, hoping feverishly that Jane wouldn’t find any other goat tracks along the way. We all had our uphill battles with a few slippery downhill slopes and head-on encounters with the local traffic, being digger-loaders delivering people and milk, to taxis and bakkies, goats, donkeys and cows. I waited for a very long time while a digger-loader decided to check his vehicle at the bottom of the longest slippery slope. Upon final descent, I met up with a taxi who eventually obliged and moved or slid off to the “side” of the “road”.
We hit the tar and the group tried to move off at a brisk pace. It was now dark. Buses were travelling on the wrong side of the road and somewhere a child walking on the solid middle line jumped out in my own headlights. You can only travel a maximum of 80kms/hr in the light and the dark. The roads are not banked – they follow the contour lines of the land. Lesson No 6: Follow the contours and expect the unexpected!
A surprisingly good hot soup-of-the-day and lovely dinner awaited us at Katse Lodge (in the dark). They also made some delicious trout dishes, and unfortunately for Steve there was no deep-fried ice-cream and hot custard. He was, however, placated by another dessert served with custard. It was an Epic day filled with adventure, Lesotho culture and ideas of adventures to come….
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Day 4 – A day of R&R for some, while others attempt the 385km Village Chief’s Road – ALL day ride or ALL day rest!
Saturday, 25 April 2015 Katse-Village Chief-Katse 385 km
Life Lesson No 8: Know your limits and your bike’s limits. If you are able and your bike is able, you will be able to complete the route set out. If either one or both of you are unable, you are not going to finish the route. If unsure, ask for a second opinion – don’t be shy.
Having arrived once again in the dark the previous evening, we awoke to another wonderful vista: Katse Dam (part of it).
Some of the group had intended to do the Village Chief’s Ride, but after consulting with Juno and his bottles of wine, and smoking the proverbial peace cigar (the consultation lasted till 4am), it was decided that some of the group needed serious R&R. The bakkie would stay behind as it would not manage the roads on this ride, and also the VW Bloemfontein technician was coming to give it some TLC. The trailer was also in need of some TLC. I decided I would take the bakkie on a scenic test run to the Katse Dam wall when it was fixed.
The usual pre-breakfast fidgeting on bikes began. Many things had rattled loose. Spanners were passed around, chains lubed, visors cleaned…
After hearty breakfast and some bantering, the much smaller group left to go and refuel their bikes at the local grocery store and then on to the ride around the dam. I settled for a photo-shoot and tiptoed around the gang-with-sore-heads.
Meanwhile the VW technician arrived and got to work on the bakkie. It took him about an hour to sort the problem out – something to do with the bolt holding the earthing wire running from the battery coming loose. He also tightened anything that had loosened and did a software upgrade with his laptop – amazing! He departed and bumped into the group who were touring the dam wall.
There is quite a bit of interesting history around the construction of the Katse Dam, which was named after a revered man who lived there - – if you are ever in the area, do yourself a favour and visit the museum and take a tour inside the dam wall.
While waiting for everyone to wake up properly, and just generally having a laid-back time, some bikes returned in drips and drabs. Thomas said something was not right on his bike, Bill said that he couldn’t keep up with the blistering 80kms/hr in that type of terrain, Ferdie’s battery died on him and one or two more excuses. My hat off to you guys – I think you’re all marvellous – I would have been completely exhausted if I’d followed you on my bike.
By lunchtime, André Ferreira, the last person to join the group, had arrived safe and sound. We were all happy to see him safe and sound.
Meanwhile the members of the Blistering Pace Group were having the time of their lives on the Village Chief’s Road.
The Chief has a big house up on the hill – quite a modernish smart house. The Village Chief's Road, is so called because it runs to that house and past it. It was never made with any mechanical heavy plant, just a path that was widened to accommodate vehicles. It does not follow a contour like most roads, but it runs as best it can from A to B. In other words, it gets very rocky and narrow…
I have an account of the ride from Um-Big Chief himself:
“The Village Chiefs house road is a round trip of about 300kms from Katse Lodge back to Katse Lodge. It starts off with a beautiful ride around the Katse Dam, the some tar before riding for a longish distance along the face of a mountain. It then goes onto some newly renovated dirt roads before joining the A1 heading in the direction of Sani Pass. Trying our best as we go to miss the horrible pot holes on the so called "national" road.
Just after Mapholaneng we turned right and onto the Village Chiefs Road. This route starts nice and easily and gets worse and worse as you progress. Parts of it were much worse than on previous occasions and one very tough place has been made a touch easier by the locals re-routing it very slightly.
Just when I thought the worst was over some of the tracks were really badly damaged by wear and tear as well as by water and we all came very close to dropping the bikes in some really trying conditions.
Knowing the route well I was really happy to see the final climb up ahead knowing we only had about 40kms to go to get to Katse Lodge.
As we got to the main road it got dark. Shew we had just made it.
As we arrived at Katse a beautiful electric storm welcomed us home.
What a ride!!”
Andy has been working on a report on this trail on and off for a while and it clearly left a huge impression on him.. Village Chiefs Trail Trip Report
I informed the barman of the eventual return of the Blistering Pace Group, and The Lodge immediately sent a butler out with drinks on a tray for Andy and Geoff, who were so delighted, they almost fell on their backs. We had about 20 minutes of unpacking before the storm hit.
Meanwhile, the Sore-Head Group, felt they needed to focus on something else other than their heads after 4pm and got cracking on trailer and bike repairs. As usual, a consulting and advisory committee assembled. Ferdi turned out to be a knowledgeable Ecologist and we learnt a lot about the mating habits of lions, rhinos and giraffes.
Lesson No 9: Always learn from someone who knows more than you.
Day 5
– Katse Dam to Matatiele via Thaba Tseka, Taung, Mathabeng Pass and finally through Rama’s Gate Border Post – only 256kms – ALL day. If we don’t sharpen up we’ll get there at night.
Sunday, 26 April 2015 Katse-Mathabeng-Matatiele 261km
Life Lesson No 10: If there’s a buzzing sound, you’ve either got a bee in your helmet, your IPod has run out of sound, or you’ve reached the next realm…
Ride carefully guys, some of you have had 4 days of hard riding. You will need to step up and keep up the pace, or we will ride over Rama’s Gate in the dark.
We say a fond farewell to Ferdie Muller, who has opted to stay and wait at Katse Lodge for a new battery.
After the usual tightening of nuts, bolts and nerves, we all departed from Katse Lodge. The Roads via Thaba Tseka were not too bad and we had an interesting fuel stop at a Chinese pump perched on a hill somewhere. It took two approaches for the bakkie in full “off-road” mode to land properly at the correct pump. Cash only.
We quickly moved on and André was self-appointed sweeper for the day. He is a very good sweeper, patient and mindful of those before and behind him. I followed the group through sweeping passes, up and down valleys. The roads were “good” as roads there go. After one steep climb, I anticipated a steep descent, which, when it came, I put the bakkie into full off-road mode and slowly negotiated the heavy vehicle down the sharp turns which came and went. To watch the GPS and the road at the same time requires heavy concentration. The group were watching my descent from the other side and moved off as soon as I arrived. We didn’t move off quite so quickly though because Fanus’ back wheel had developed a puncture. FMO (Fear of Missing Out) kicked into action and he refused to listen to our reasonable requests of putting his bike on the trailer for the sake of time. If you are an Adventure-seeker, you will understand why. Andyman and André came to the rescue with tubes and tools and it took nearly 40 mins to get the back wheel off, new tube in, back wheel on etc. In the meantime the local community interviewed us. Did I not want to give away my boots? Do I have a cell phone? Who do you vote for? How many languages does your country speak?
I saw that this community was more a Christian community and that the reason for moving from A to B was either family or worship-related. Why would they move from A to B? They’re not selling or moving anything. This puzzled me quite a bit, amongst other things.
I moved off while Fanus’ bike was being reassembled. The 3 overtook me sometime later, collecting Craig who was patiently waiting at an intersection. The uphill became a steep rutted downhill with traffic coming the other way. Again, no place for other traffic and bakkie. Wished I was on a bike. After a few minutes of not budging, the other traffic realised they should try and find another direction and let me pass. Patience is sometimes a virtue. Then I found a “sweeper” in the form of Marc waiting at a strange turnoff. I should’ve suspected. He moved off at a brisk pace. I suddenly found myself doing more technical 4x4ing with the trailer. I reached a lovely glade and thought “oh good a lunch stop” and the group moved off again. In retrospect, I understand why.
We were on Mathabeng Pass.
It got rocky, tight, loose, twisty and turny and very steep very suddenly. Very challenging with a heavy bakkie and a big trailer. Some of the turns were really tight. And Geoff was calling from up high – “we need the cooler box!” Ai, one can only do so much. I quickly picked up speed on the straighter stretches (those stretches without too many turns and rocks) and negotiated the rest. For some the ride was 20 mins and others it was 90 mins. Hats and helmets off to those who stopped to help the fallen. At this point we realised that Juno actually did have a collapsible leg (old injury from the Roof which he’s done 4 times mind you) and that if he stopped he was bound to fall. Some were really out of their depth and had to dig deep to find their resolve. We all arrived intact and out of breath at the top. The cooler box was opened and many pics were snapped.
BUT, was the downhill as bad as the uphill? I took a quick peek and saw that it was more “civilised” than the uphill. Not to worry.
By now, the exhaustion and anxiety had set in for some. Digging deep had taken a lot of energy and poise. Finding resolve required the help of others. Steve and André, Gerrit and Andy – you are masters at finding the resolve for others! Hats off. Team work and glue..
We arrived at Rama’s Gate as the sun was setting. Rama’s Gate is a border post literally perched on a rocky outcrop. The GPS didn’t say too much – was a little bit curvy with no topography. Suddenly we were climbing boulders and bouncing down ruts and rocks again till we eventually reached a more “regular” pass which was in the construction phase – ie piles of dirt and rocks and evidence of recent road grading. Phew, we could relax a little. For the weary-wary people, this was just one more obstacle; for the weary-experienced group – a clean ride at last, thinking about rest and bed. Home stretch, race in each other’s dust. Until Harley’s bike cartwheeled on an unseen rock… Bike ok, Harley not. Harley got into the bakkie with me feeling rather dazed. His bike was quickly loaded onto the trailer. He didn’t say much, but then he never does… He bravely endured the many ruts and rocks while I made my way to Resthaven in Matatiele. After a long bath, Harley was ready for supper. We’d finally made it to a place before dark. The group dynamics were finally developing and settling down. Harley’s fall was a big wake-up call for some.
A really wonderful Rys-Vleis-en-Aartappels supper awaited us. We were sorely in need of this, assisted by good and relaxed company. Thank you Resthaven for an excellent meal and sleepover. Tomorrow would be the start of a round of birthdays. What would its adventures bring?
Lesson No 11: When approaching home, be MOST vigilant, it’s when most accidents statistically happen. Remain focused.
Day 6 – Matatiele via several options including Ongleluks Nek and Quaches Nek - only 250kms – Partial day. If we ride too fast we’ll get there too soon. Is this perhaps the Longest Day?
Monday, 27 April 2015
Lesson No 7a: If your patience is running low, and/or your nerves are running high, remember that this too shall pass. Wait your turn, and if the going is rough, wait a little longer.
Oh Big Chief’s birthday!! The start of many happy birthday songs to come.
We all awoke realising that we need to act our ages and behave responsibly. But then the question arose: Why were we on this trip? Rama’s Gate again? A sure wake-up call for those asleep.
The bakkie had developed a flat tyre overnight. A tiny thin wire was found to be the cause. Andy changed the tyre and thank you to Philip our host, who repaired the tyre when he got to the lodge before breakfast. Meanwhile the bike fidgeting began again. The Giant rooster had awoken everyone of course.
Harley and his bike decided to brave the backup bakkie. By the way Harley’s bike also had a big puncture which Andy repaired. I felt very sorry for Harley as I thought he had some broken ribs which didn’t really ride well on these roads. He had opted against trying to get medical assistance at the Matatiele Hospital where, according to our friendly hosts, he would have had to wait all day to be assisted. I guess some riders didn’t realise we were trekking back over Rama’s Gate.
We refuelled all vehicles in Matatiele, including the cooler box, and set off up the pass. Bill had forgotten that he had actually loaded his bag and the group stopped me to double-check. I guess everyone was just a little nervous… We set off again. Shortly after that Philip and his wife passed us at great speed in their Landcruiser. After we’d left, they’d felt the dirt roads of Lesotho calling them loudly and had decided to go on a Sunday drive… It wasn’t long before we had to stop again. I could see there was someone or a few people having difficulty. It turned out to be Alec who had followed Bill quickly up a rocky path, not realising he should have waited for Bill to complete the more difficult section. Bill got into difficulty and Alec tried to choose another track. Alec’s bike chose its own track and the two of them (Alec and his Dakar) were then obviously at cross-purposes, so both of them went down, pinning Alec under the bike. Isn’t it funny how your bike knows where it wants to go – it chooses its own path. Lesson No 12: In difficult terrain, trust your bike, it knows where it wants to go. All you have to do is: Stand up, look up, and open up.
Philip kindly loaded Alec into his Landcruiser. Between Marc and Andy, they did some to-and-froing and got Alec’s Dakar to the SA Rama’s Gate border post. There it was loaded alongside Harley’s bike onto the trailer. The Rama’s Gate official was so happy there was some action in his long day, he came and stamped our passports outside and asked us many questions about the Amarok, the bikes and ourselves. Poor birthday boy Geoff pulled a muscle in his back while loading Alec’s bike.
Alec was splinted and dressed into more comfy clothes. His support team were called from Durban – they would arrive in Matatiele in about 6 hours. We were instructed to drive to Quaches Nek border post and deliver Alec back at Resthaven in Matatiele where he would wait for his friend. Andy, as paramedic and general assistant accompanied us on his bike. We drove 90kms on a beautiful but very potholed and sometimes rutted road till we bumped into the rest of the gang just outside Quaches Nek where Fanus had just had a swim in the local river. The cooler box was quickly raided and we went on our merry bumpy way back to Matatiele with Harley and his quietly hilarious stories and unassuming Alec. The border officials stamped his passport in the car. We were then stopped at a military road block further down the very degraded Quaches Nek pass, but when they saw Alec, they thought we were rushing him to hospital and let us go quickly. We left Alec on the stoep of Resthaven with Philip’s son and offloaded his bike, shifted Harley’s bike back to the centre. I think Alec’s friend only pitched up after dark and hopefully he was able to find help to move inside and to use ablutions. Really nice to meet you Alec, sorry you couldn’t finish the tour.
Back to refuel both the bakkie and Andy’s and Harley’s bikes (Harley had secret plans to ride again cursing himself and the blessed rock hourly), then back up the Quaches Nek pass. It was now after 3.30pm and GPS (confused again Jane) said we’d be in Semongkong after midnight! Back through the border posts and onto the tar road – fortunately there were signboards… We followed the contours into the setting sun, which blinded us completely. Onto the new road the Chinese have built and for some reason they have put sign-posted (or not) and brilliantly painted (or not) speed bumps everywhere which the heavily-laden bakkie had to negotiate almost at 10km/hr.
The rest of the group had taken a scenic tour to Semongkong, stopping at many view points and historical sites (Please update me so I can add into this report).
Andy, Harley and I got to Semongkong Lodge after 7pm, with Geoff directing us over the radio through the township and the hectic, appalling, shocking 4x4 driveway. We were instructed to come straight to the bar and order dinner. Drinks were waiting for us, thank goodness – we’d just travelled 540kms in one day!
Dinner was excellent and very festive in the Duck & Donkey Restaurant, especially because it was Geoff’s birthday. Gerrit cooked up a scheme for Andy (being English) to tell a joke in Afrikaans sentence by sentence, during which he, Gerrit (being Afrikaans), would translate it back into English. Well, you can imagine, it was hilarious and the rest of the diners in the restaurant found it hilarious as well.
Many stayed on for more festivities and a bit of wild pool games, while Andy & I and Harley were shown to our rooms, which turned out to be a rondawel on the 2nd tier, some 200 steps above us. We were so tired, we simply crawled into bed. The next morning I discovered that quite a few people had slept without unpacking the bakkie (commando style) as they had simply not had the energy to carry their luggage up the stairs. One of the rondawels discovered some creepy crawly things in their beds, and so elected to sleep in their bike gear on top of the beds.
Lesson No 8a: If you discover en route that you and/or your bike have run out of steam, stop and ask for help. There will always be help. Then put your best wheel and foot forward and proceed, one step at a time.
Day 7 – Semongkong Lodge via Maletsunyane Falls, Mohale Dam, and a “new” road not been traversed by Geoff before (wink wink) – 180kms, roughly an ALL day ride, depending on the unknown…
Tuesday, 28 April 2015
Mostly easy, except the unknown, keep your wits about you guys…
Just one more Happy Birthday for Geoff at breakfast, pack the bakkie and try and thaw the frost which had settled on saddles and windscreens overnight. Briskly chilly!
Not much bike fidgeting this morning, just a few turns in the tiny car park. We refuelled at a one-horse-stop which was using a common battery for both diesel and petrol pumps ie, when you need to pump diesel, take the battery out of the petrol pump and put it in the diesel pump.
Repeat Lesson No 7: Be patient, your turn will come, and remind the local taxis of this lesson too. Gerrit, André, Andy, Steve and a few others did a joint bike manoeuvre to allow me to get in ahead of a taxi which was trying to force its way in to the petrol pump. Thanks guys – brilliant tactics! We watched a forklift loading several pallets of matches into a depot attached to the petrol pump. Interesting.
We got news via Andy and Alec that Alec was safely ensconced in a Durban Hospital and was now recovering from a broken Fib and Tib. Poor Alec – we wish you a speedy recovery!
We bounced out of Semongkong, and onto the main tarred road – I almost collected a donkey which had decided to run away. Soon we were bouncing on the road to Maletsunyane Falls. As I was negotiating a very tight very rutted downhill turn, I got a distress call from Geoff on the radio. I stopped immediately, poised on the tip of a rut leading into a donga. “Yes Geoff?” “I see, Andy’s bike needs loading. I’m on my way!” We found Andy’s distressed bike – something gone wrong with recent repairs before the trip. “Squawk squawk….ask Andy if he will use Harley’s bike or travel in the backup vehicle…squawk…squawk… Harley’s bike just itching to ride… Andy will use the Harley bike and load his bike…ok thanks!” Bikes exchanged we bounced along.
Again, someone hadn’t waited at the turnoff to the viewpoint and one group suddenly found themselves on a much more exciting ride to another more perilous view point further below the falls. Eventually we regrouped, many photos were snapped and some even found the dreaded cell phone reception.
Geoff’s helmet on, time to go, Harley looking longingly at Andy riding his trusty steed. Back on the road again, Harley and I spotted a large bus negotiating the bridge detour and saw that there was a live sheep on top of the bus. Well I never!
It wasn’t long before we were back on the dirt again – the “unknown” road in unknown condition and unknown length. Aha. Normal Lesotho roads, lots of ruts, uphills, downhills, potholes. Negotiated carefully with heavily-laden bakkie. Travelling up a steeper section, I saw that the group had stopped to rest. Coming round the bend I was directed into my parking place – unusual. Immediate bike loading began. What happened? Gerrit? Can’t be – it’s a straight stretch of road.
Well poor Gerrit had injured his ankle and managed to pass out from sudden hyperventilation, lowered bp, adrenalin rush, you name it. But he quickly came round again. He wanted to put his boot on again a ride. No Gerrit – NEE! Get in the bakkie. Juno didn’t miss the opportunity to catch a lift on the trailer to his bike. At which point a whole fleet of 4x4s came thundering around the corner in the opposite direction. We continued, the 4x4s still approaching, ignoring the rule of the off-road – descending vehicles wait for ascending vehicles. Oh well.
The road started to get narrower and more rutted while still running up and down the many steep hills and valleys. With sharp drops on the side, there were breath-taking views, which Harley has some photos of. Meanwhile Gerrit was chatting 19 to the dozen and got Harley to give us a bit of life history - the dry humour and laid-back tales kept us in stitches for the duration of the journey. The road got more technical, very much more… At one point I thought the road wasn’t wide enough for the trailer – I hugged the mountain as best I could. Meanwhile Geoff was squawking on the radio, saying he could see the cooler box – another 5kms to go – always waiting for me to be perched on a precipice before calling.
Lesson No 8a: If you discover en route that you or your bike have run out of steam, stop and ask for help. There will always be help. Then put your best wheel and foot forward and proceed, one step at a time.
We finally made it through the gates of the Malealea Lodge, a lovely sprawling and colourful Backpackers lodge. We were welcomed, and the bakkie was so tired, it decided not to start again… too many bumps and rocks.
We had a fantastic buffet dinner and a few more happy birthdays to Geoff, upon which the lodge brought out cake and candles and their own happy birthday version. That’s the spirit.
A plan was hatched by the guys: Bill and Marc to escort Harley and Gerrit to Bloemfontein Hospital the next day – our rest day. You are really great!
Lesson No 13: Don’t take yourself too seriously, else you will forget to enjoy the journey!
Day 8 – Rest Day at Malealea Lodge for some
Wednesday, 29 April 2015
A complete rest day for everyone, including Geoff. The team in the bakkie left early-ish after breakfast for Bloemfontein with a list of spares and spanners to be purchased in the big city. Some running repairs made to bikes by those not sleeping, and laundry handed in or done. Lazy coffees and carrot cake, some horse-riding, general banter, soaking up the sun.
We’d forgotten the day, date and come to a complete chilled stop.
Andy had ordered his parts to be delivered to our next location, and prepared his bike for installation of these parts. Meantime, the Harley bike doubled up as an Andy bike. Juno,
seeing general repairs being done, cunningly manoeuvred his bike alongside and started fidgeting, which irritated the expert fidgeters, upon which his bike was sorted out in no time at all. Good move Juno – you have certainly learnt a lot in your lifetime!
Eventually we got news from Bloemfontein that they were returning with Gerrit and his Massive Moonboot (torn ligaments), Harley with his 4 broken ribs and a new jockey wheel for the trailer. Gerrit was determined to ride the next day: “the doctor said if I can get my boot on, then I can ride”.
Lesson No 14: Always remain positive: you will attract positive people, positive vibes and positive outcomes.
Lesson No 15: If you can’t see the road anymore you’re probably on the wrong road.
Tongue in Cheek: Troubleshooting Lesson No 15 (not to be taken too seriously):
Day 9 – Malealea exit Lesotho via Telebridge, then traverse Lundeans Neck Pass, the War Trail, and Moshesh’s Ford to Mountain Shadows Hotel in Elliot. ± 260kms
Thursday, 30 April 2015
Another glorious morning, the usual rooster crow before 6am, which set off the rest of the village roosters and the now-familiar cow bells – I forgot to mention, most of the livestock in Lesotho wear large bells, more like gongs, which can be heard up and down the rolling valleys.
After a quick breakfast, settling of the bar bills, handing in of keys, we got a brief overview from Geoff of the day’s plan. “Remember to thumbs-up and to ride within your limits. Look out for those notorious Lesotho road blocks, remember to stop at all stop signs….”
By now the group had developed a certain kind of mad-craziness which added a different dimension and perspective (and humour) on all events forthcoming. I looked at the group, gleamy-eyed, half of them growing thick beards, dusty clothes and bags, all ready for the next part of the adventure. Hopefully no more injuries. Ride carefully guys!
We headed out of Malealea in the general direction of Maseru and Bloemfontein, riding some fantastic pass with more-or-less good dirt roads. We stopped to allow Marc to put his newly-purchased Lesotho hat into the bakkie, upon which Gerrit jumped out of the bakkie and bargained a very impressive hat off a local chap for R200. The radio started to squawk, and we were quickly on our way. The bakkie was feeling very heavy.
We hit the tar at an intersection and immediately stopped for fuel. Geoff and Andy were inspecting the trailer with ominous grunts, hums and hahs. “Trailer needs repairing next stop or it won’t make it”. Just ahead was an active road block in brown uniforms – I don’t know if it was traffic, military or police. We all passed through safely and continued.
I kept up with the group, but had to slack off for the speed bumps – horrific – especially if you have 4 broken ribs. I started planning my movements for a possible trailer wheel loss… with two bikes on, how would it behave? Exiting a town I was just getting up to speed when the bakkie and trailer gave an uncommon swerve. I immediately slowed down and stopped. We all got out to check the trailer. Everything was fine. Perhaps it was just a sudden gust of wind? I pulled off again and made plan no 42F for trailer problems and got up to about 60kms/hr…the whole bakkie and trailer started to slew and swerve violently. I thought: “this is it - we're– going to roll.” I remember doing some very aggressive cadence braking and after about 150m we came to a stop at the side of the road – out of the corner of my eye I saw a large wheel and then a brake drum continue down towards the next ditch, then thinking: “that’s not a trailer wheel!” We called Geoff, who couldn’t believe what he’d just heard. We needed help – two cripples and a woman and a “landed” bakkie. Only 3 and 4-letter words were uttered after that. Geoff dispatched Andy and Steve. The wheel nuts must have come loose on the heavy dirt roads. By the time our backup arrived several locals were assisting. We sent two children to look for missing wheel nuts further back. Harley found 3 nuts, the wheel and the drum. The children returned with the final missing nut and were duly rewarded by Gerrit.
Andy & Steve used 3 jacks to support and lift the laden bakkie off the ground where the axle was almost level with the road til it was high enough and stable to fit one of the two spare wheels.
They knew the hub holes would have been hurt, so the nuts would not screw into their holes comfortably. The right thing is to cut the threads clean. Andy stopped the 'helpful' men and got out the hacksaw from the very well-stocked toolbox.
Steve (a man who works with his hands, a man of the land) cut a slot into one of the nuts turning it into a die and with this and some light oil he 'tapped' all five thread holes in the hub 'clean' and now the nuts could be fitted securely.
Wow, where would we have been without him!!! The hub back plate was panel beaten straighter and the trip was back on track...
The rest is history. Oh, and in the process we found a new lodge to visit and Gerrit found himself a new gardener.
Lesson No 16: If your back wheel overtakes you it’s time to stop.
Gerrit also took some time to instil some of Steve’s life lessons (no 17) into the 2 children:
This was duly translated to the children by Gerrit’s new gardener.
Nervously we continued, still trying to process the shock. I’d decided to block it out for the moment because learning from Lesson no 1a, this was just a Way Point and therefore I should carry on. If we’d overturned, it would have been a Turning Point. Simple as that.
We took the next turn, and followed a new dirt road which was in a construction phase. From the corner of my eye (and Gerrit’s and Harley’s) we saw some construction workers on a sand heap. “Squawk, squawk, stop Anne – those are police – come back”. I did a U-turn and came to a stop alongside a very agitated policeman in some or other blue and white uniform. He pointed to the little badge on his cap “didn’t you see this badge?” “No, I’m sorry, I thought police wore brown uniforms here.” We then found out that these were Imperial Police and they wore these uniforms. “Oh, I’m terribly sorry. Listen we just lost the wheel on our car and we’re still very shocked, so I really didn’t realise you were police.” After much huffing and puffing - he released us - he clearly didn’t know how to argue with a woman. At Telebridge, the parking lot was unsuitable for the bakkie and trailer, so we parked in a spot Andy was showing us. Upon which another policeman in a different uniform came and argued that we couldn’t park there. I told them there was no other place for us to park and that we’d just be a minute to get our stamp. He also didn’t know how to argue with a woman. Internally, I’d had enough incidents to last a lifetime and this policeman was just an irritation….
Lesson No 18: Never argue with a woman who has just lost her wheel!
Stamp, stamp, we exited Telebridge and Sterkspruit, hung a left and headed up Lundean’s Nek Pass (or Lundin’s Neck Pass). We encountered a tree which was being chopped up and overloaded onto a tractor (we couldn’t see the tractor). We waited, had lunch, and were finally able to pass. Awesome pass, and stunning views. The War trail (something to do with the Boer War) was also magnificent, as was passing Moshesh’s Ford (a landmark farm). The next day the Treasurer of the War Trail Club overtook me at great speed and flagged me down to give me his number: Greg Sefton 045 971 9093. They have very nice camping facilities and other activities, and can also apparently cater for groups. We passed the Bastervoetpad (next day’s ride).
Finally we got to the Mountain Shadows entrance and were immediately met by Geoff who was rolling his eyes at the bakkie which had developed a “tshweet tshweet” – Ja, it must’ve learnt something from those children in Lesotho – “Sweets, I want sweets”.
We sat down to coffee and lovely toasted sandwiches. A fantastic dinner followed with a final Happy Birthday to Geoff.
With so many events, adventures and memorable places and sights – what would tomorrow bring?
Day 10 – Rest day for some, adventure-ride for some: Bastervoetpad and Otto du Plessis Pass ± 220kms
Friday, 1 May 2015
It’s my birthday for a change! Thanks for the lovely happy birthday songs!
I heard that plans were afoot for trailer repairs: the trailer was going nowhere until repairs were done. Something about feathers and springs. Harley, being a quiet engineer, quietly promised to oversee the trailer repairs with his 4 broken ribs. There were enough others resting to assist.
The adventure-seekers would ride without the bakkie, their decision, a little birthday present for me. I would remain on stand-by – I had the routes. In the meantime I planned to prepare for writing the mammoth trip report and to start sorting through everyone’s photos.
The last few bits and pieces were tightened and fidgeted on the bikes and they were off – to refuel first in Barkley East and then onto the day’s route.
I downloaded my gazillion photos, and a bit later our Wise Man Steve returned with gippo guts. I handed him some pills to turn his insides to cement and continued with my stuff. Steve and Harley then had a consultation at the trailer. Oom Geudeon was also consulted. Oom Geudeon returned wearing bright green overalls and climbed into his very smart red tractor with all sorts of attachments and gadgets. See photos.
I returned to my laptop, then heard my cell phone ring. Looked like Andy’s sat phone calling. I answered, no reply, rushed outside with sat and cell phones in hand. Then Geoff’s phone called me, then Andy’s sat phone, then Geoff’s sat phone. Oh no, I knew something bad had happened. Reception was really bad and I couldn’t hear, so I raced to the top step of the establishment, while Alf was doing the same on his side. I got the message, bring trailer, bring bakkie, bring medical supplies; a 2nd call told me to meet Alf in Barkley East (they had not followed the pre-plotted route) during which time I managed to convey to Alf that the trailer couldn’t come because it was now suspended from Oom Geudeon’s tractor! I could hear that it was André who was badly hurt. Oh no! I raced around gathering everything, and got a 3rd call to say that “it’s ok, Andrés bike is ok to drive, bring a rider.” I found Marc, who nervously suited up, and sped off to Barkley East to refuel and meet Alf.
What had happened?
We followed Alf into the rolling hills and valleys, several turns and an eventual slow-down in a dip. This was it. On arrival we encountered 2 ambulances and crowds of people and bakkies. André had met up with a Discovery coming round the bend and had been flung into the bushes. The impact had buckled his bike severely – there was no riding it anywhere. André was already in the ambulance and had been given a dose of heavy painkiller by Dr Fanus (actually an anaesthetist) who also just happened to be on the ride with the boys. The Discovery had a neurologist and paediatrician couple driving it. We knew Andre was seriously injured, and what kind of coincidence or forces of the universe would bring 3 doctors, a paramedic and many kind farmers to his side? We bade poor André farewell (off to Bloemfontein across the dirt roads which were better than the pot-holed tar roads).
We met up at Farmer Wikus’ homestead, and gathered Andrés personal belongings. The bike was clearly going nowhere.
Geoff cancelled the rest of the ride even though some of the guys wanted to ride it. We’d had enough incidents. We all drove back to Mountain Shadows in a more sombre mood. Wow! What a birthday.
When we arrived, the trailer was in the final stages of repair. Oom Geudeon was onto his next project in his green overalls. Andy double-checked the trailer and was happy.
We drank coffee and just generally milled around bikes, some wearing strange-looking hats.
We had a festive evening, exchanging photos and telling lots of jokes and stories. But by 9pm, everyone was strangely tired, including the bar lady. Geoff and I were each given birthday presents from Mountain Shadows! J I could feel we were generally winding down, we’d learnt all our lessons had our fun.
Tomorrow would be a long tar ride down to Tsitsikamma – our adventure was nearly at an end.
Day 11 – Mountain Shadows Hotel, Elliot through Queenstown, Fort Beaufort, Port Elizabeth to Tsitsikamma Village Inn ±650kms
Saturday, 2 May 2015
We awoke to dry vehicles and an orange sky – sure signs rain headed for Elliot. The previous day, we’d awoken to bikes and bakkie frosted over. A quick weather check told us the rain would not be following us. We were to ride 650kms.
I was pleased I had a refurbished trailer to tow. Gerrit still couldn’t get his boot on and Harley was not keen to ride such a long stretch with 4 broken ribs. Although I still had tons of music and audio-books to listen to, I’d not even listened to half of it. Both Gerrit and Harley had been my company for several days and I was entertained with stories the entire time.
The bakkie was fully loaded and we made our way to Queenstown at a brisk pace where we refuelled.
Lady Frere was still stuck in its time-warp – the same dogs and cows still trying to cross the main road and the same bakkies and taxis still trying to park and overtake at the same time – same as a week ago.
Someone forgot to leave his thumb at the Fort Beaufort turnoff, and I continued following Jane. “Squawk, Squawk – where ARE you?” “Sorry, no thumb, thought you were ahead of me.” “Stop where you are and wait for us.” We stopped, and about 20 mins they zoomed past us. We regrouped in Colchester again. I must just tell you that there are some stunning tar passes between Fort Beaufort and Colchester. I could just imagine the bikes leaning into all those bends…
By late afternoon we reached our destination at Storms River, refuelled there and made our way to the Tsitsikamma Village Inn. Wow, what clean sheets and fancy rooms! We were almost too scared to sit anywhere. We rummaged for our cleanest dirty clothes and made our way to the Rugby and some Refreshments. The buffet dinner was more than welcome and very tasty. Still no deep-fried ice cream for Steve. Things got really festive! During this whole scenario Andy was coordinating a rescue operation from his phone and laptop, while checking on the scores and parties. Andyman!!! Hats and helmets off to you.
I can’t say if we had an early or a late night….
Day 12 – Tsitsikamma Village Inn to Home ±580kms
Sunday, 3 May 2015
Andy’s Birthday!!! More happy birthday songs.
I think everyone was simply bone-weary-tired. Some were branching off to Oudtshoorn and Mossel Bay. We said our good-byes at the Inn.
We stuck together mostly until a road-block pulled off some and some not. The regroupings became more difficult and disjointed. Then Fanus forgot his Mossel Bay house key in his bag in the bakkie and we waited for him in Riversdal. The traditional Buffeljachtsrivier BP stop for good byes was missed by some and others not.
In the end, we all made it home in one piece.
I just want to thank especially Geoff Russell once again, for the enormous effort and lengths he went to for arranging the tour. And then also for the behind-the-scenes work he did while on tour, and for keeping us all together, even through the many incidents we had. He could have lost his mojo, but he didn’t – hats and helmets off to you, Geoff.
Then to all the guys on the trip – you each made up part of a special group dynamic and you were all great sports and fun. I think I couldn’t decide each day whether my tummy muscles were sore from laughing or 4x4ing!
And last but not least a huge thanks to VW NTT Paarl for sponsoring the Amarok for 12 days. I have never driven and automatic 4x4 before, nor have I driven an Amarok. I was really sad to part with my new friend, the Amarok – really. On to my next story: 12 days in an Amarok!
Sorry, just joking!
The end
__________________________________________________
* This report won the monthly Ruslamere Trip Report trophy
Can't wait Anne.
How about putting all the rest of us out of our misery. Who had the head-on and how are they now? What about the other injuries we heard about?
Andre Ferreira is "Andre".
Other injuries were Harley, hurt his ribs when he hit a brick sized rock and lost the front end at about 50kph.
Gerrit hurt his ankle when he left the road in a corner at very low speed.
Alec hurt his leg in a stationary side stand incident.
Just watched my footage of Matabeng Pass, both up and down........my nerves!
I must be that 90 minute nominee vs the 20 min kings :-)
thank you Anne for the perfect back up driver and Geoff for the great arrangements and encouragement (in fact, thanks to ALL for the support and encouragement!).
Andre sends greets.
And thanks for all the good wishes.
I spoke to him this morning, He is on the mend and champing at the bit to get airborne and make his way to Durbanville Mediclinic.
Waiting for the doctor to come on his rounds and give him a time frame.
He can now hobble on crutches and can move all his limbs.
In a lot of pain. Good spirits, remembers every item of the event and the trip to hospital including the tyre blow-out of the ambulance on the road back.
His flight back to Cpt is very dependent on swelling going down so there is no time set for this event. Not today, nor Wednesday.
Nevertheless, he will make a full recovery and this will soon be ancient history.
I will say that because he was wearing very good rider gear- Full ATTGATT and had his jacket zipped to his pants- (which many neglect to do!!!) his injuries are considerably less severe than they may otherwise have been.
He is in ward T07, Bloem Mediclinic.
0510404 66 66
And would welcome a call from a friendly face.
Brilliant Anne!
Sitting at the office reading the report kicking myself that I didn't go on the trip .
Oh well, perhaps the "floating roads" won't hold up to the vigours of Africa and there will be another opportunity in the not too distant future.
PS we couldn't perhaps twist your arm to do two day installments?
Tony,
The good news is that we found more fantastic routes that more than made up for the roads that had been tarred.
For sure we will be back as I am sure that the 4 guys that did not complete the entire route will put there names down to return.
Geoff
Yeah, a "double dose"!
Thanks Anne.
Keep it comin'
Trying my best!
You bringing back fond and not so fond memories.......but all in all, great to read and remember the groups achievements :-)
Craig, you rode brilliantly! I am in awe of all of you, especially because you hung in there and finished a fantastic trip.
Wow awesome commentary on what seems to have been quite an adventure ... can't wait for the next episode! Sounds like you are going to need a bigger backup vehicle before the story ends ....
Reminds me as a kid we used to have our weekly comic order placed at CNA and we would keep checking our slot waiting expectantly for the latest edition to arrive so we could follow the next episode of whatever story was the flavour of the month ...
Brillantly written Anne. Fantastic!!!
Thanks Anne,many thanks to all that nudged me along. Looking at footage and photos now, it's starting to sink in what I actually achieved..........and right now would like to redo at least Lundeans Neck and the downhill of Mathabeng :-)
sometimes you just need to take a step back and appreciate what was....
Adventure with a capital F!
If ever this forum creates a Hall Of Fame for trip / tour reports this one belongs up there with the best of them!
Thanks Anne, for a riveting read - I'm going to regret it when it comes to an end!
Some sage advice please ....
Not sure where is the best place to post this but seeing that this trip report raised the issue for me maybe best to post it here …
As a newcomer to the off-road fraternity I am still taking baby steps in terms of understanding my own ability and the capabilities of my bike
I am still the right side of 60 (just), relatively fit and have always been reasonably active and rode a lot when I was younger so am no stranger to being on a bike. I don’t consider myself as having excessive strength or stamina but I am still quite flexible and with commuting daily I am reasonably bike fit.
I started with a 650GS a year ago and have since upgraded to a 1200GS. I have done the Country Trax Intro Course (on the 650) and the Donford Level 2 training (on the 1200) and managed both without too much trouble. To date I have only been able to do a couple of weekend off-road trips which I arranged myself with my son and friends. The first was a relatively straight-forward circuit via Bot River Greyton, Robertson, Montagu, Touwsriver and some back roads back to Prince Alfred’s Hamlet and Ceres, about 800km of which maybe 60% was dirt. I would say (based on the Dirt Busters grading) that this was generally Grade 1/2 with some sections of Grade 3. The second was a bit more challenging into the eastern Cederberg and across to the Tankwa Karoo covering about 700km with a much higher percentage of dirt and with some sections probably Grade 4 at least. I have certainly felt nervous on some of the more tricky sections and have had a few minor offs so am not excessively scared of falling.
I have read as much as I can on the subject and have Dirt Busters as the de facto bible next to my bed. The thing for me is that at my age I heal slowly and I am very aware of my physical limitations when it comes to pushing myself and although I would not say that I am a timid rider I am naturally cautious. My bike is a 2006 model so I am less concerned about the cost of bike damage as I am of damage to my aging body!
When I read a trip report such as this it makes me wonder if the mishaps reported are just seen to be part of the adventure or whether riders were pushing themselves (or being pushed unintentionally – part of the group dynamics) outside of their comfort zones?. There is no summary of riders by age but looking at the photos there seems to be a fair amount of ‘grey hair’!
I guess my question is how do I gauge whether I would have been able to cope with the rigours of the trip in question and how in future do I decide what I am capable of managing without doing myself some serious damage? My first thought on seeing that the Lesotho trip was planned was that as much as I would dearly love to try it the total riding time was beyond what I thought I could reasonably manage (even with rest days).
With hindsight do some of the guys feel they bit off too much? I can see that the organisers have done an amazing job in shepherding the group though this trip and to 'ride within your limits' seems to have been the mantra throughout, yet still the casualty rate seems high? How in future do I gauge when I see a trip posted such as this one as to whether it is within my capabilities so as not to end up being one of the uncomfortable passengers in the back-up vehicle early in a long trip?
Your comments or suggestions would really be greatly appreciated.
Hi Peter
This trip was unusual iro number of incidents. Do not take it as a yardstick. That said: with time you will eventually learn the different attributes of different ride leaders. When you sign up for one of Geoff's tours, you know that you will most likely be challenged, one way or another.
And Andyman - as great as he is to have on your side in times of trouble, seems to attract it. Almost always, if Andy is on a trip with us, someone has an accident - it's uncanny.
The other factor is the dynamics of riding in a larger group - it takes self-control and discipline to do this safely.
My advice is this:
Wise words Charles, thank you.
Peter - regarding ages on this Tour, the oldest was 72, I am 61 and the youngest was 19.
The experience levels varied from experienced to not very experienced.
Regarding the incidents............
Harley...........very experienced, last big fall 27 years ago.
Alec, inexperienced but was as good as stationary when he fell over.
Gerrit - Resonably new to riding but has ridden a lot in a short time.
Andre - Experienced rider
Peter,
When GeoffR organises another trip just sign up and go. You will have an adventure to beat all adventures, you will meet the most amazing people, go to the most amazing places and you will RIDE and RIDE.
I was a novice when I went on my first ride with Geoff. I was really stretched and out of my comfort zone at times but I was looked after and my skills improved greatly. And I did the last Lesotho ride with him when I was on the wrong side of 60.
If you don't do one of these trips you will be missing out big time.
Peter, as the aptly nicknamed "Anxiousman" of the Lesotho tour, let me highlight a few points for you:
i am just short of my 50th and in May, have been riding for only 1 year on a GS1200LC.........a flipping heavy and powerful bike ( well, I've had the GS only from July 2014, started out on a 660 Tenere)
I had no idea what I was in for as I have only done a few weekend club rides plus some with another riding buddy.
i was the one who on day 4 I think, sat down with Geoff and shared with him that it was time for me to head back to CT, I was totally out of my league with this group of really good to great riders, I was gatvol for so much time in the saddle, I was worried about myself and my bike encountering serious damage.
i was the one that at the end of the day was grumpy, stressed, freaked out, frustrated, embarrassed ( for riding so slow), relieved having made it.....I could go on........
Bottom line: looking back on this tour, I cannot tell you how much it did for me personally, let alone my riding ability. I learnt so much about group dynamics, I made new friends, learnt that bikers are a team....not just a group of people riding/working together, but a team as in a group of people trusting each other.
was I pushed by the guys: YES
was I supported by the guys: YES
was I encouraged by the guys: YES
does Geoff owe me a beer for lying and saying on day 4 the worst was over: YES
do I appreciate Geoff's lie: YES
did I learn the hard way: YES
am I better rider because of the tour: YES
was it worth the time and money: YES
will I do it again:ummmmm........maybe..........YES
So take from this what I took from the tour: trust the group, trust yourself, trust your bike, trust the group, trust the group, trust yourself.......now just go and book for the next one!!!!
As others have said, do the club training courses, repeat often.....start with some day/weekend rides (Oh, and please pay your annual R150 club fees if you haven't already)
Geoff summed it up nicely for me by saying: "I don't ride fast, I just don't slow down" :-)
On days Geoff would do 60km p/h on gravel, I did the same route at about 25km p/h, but through it all, I was supported by many guys on the tour and me and my bike got home safely.
Did I mention you should just go for it? You will not be disappointed!!!!
I know it had to be noticed that I was getting real close to some riders on the trip.
Both on the gravel and on the tar.
so to help understand, I wrote this post. on riding in close formation.
http://bmwmccc.org.za/riding-bikes-formation
Craig you some up very well what this type of trip does for you.
Not just for riding skills but for shjeer enjoyment and companionship.
If you look at the group, they really are a mixed bunch and I had never met more than half of you all.
But inside a day or two, the group dynamic started to mesh and weld us together and the ride was one feast of god times after another.
Marred by more incidents than we wanted to ever have, but the outcomes have been okay.
Helping you was never a burden.
I admired your sheer guts and saw you dig far deeper than most.
You discovered that with support of the group, you plumb deep depths you never knew you had in resolve and determination.
I really enjoyed seeing you grow as a rider and integral team member.
Annie was so nervous and had so much trepidation about riding the back up.
She never had to worry at all.
I've depended on her for so many times over the last 34 years, I knew she had it in her to do her part well.
She has grown so much in this trip and would love to ride the back up on long trips. Whether I am along or not is not material, she is game.
See you all at the braai sometime soon.
Well, although it would have been better if no one got eina, I personally got the chance to keep my medical skills sharp.
All my assessments were almost spot on and I got to use things in the BLs kit I have not used for ages.
I was itching to use my new Tullen to cut off a jacket or pants, but, well, it was not required....
I have taken medical kit and BLS bags and stretchers on almost all trips and never had the need to use them, as no one ever gets hurt when they fall on trips I am on.
Okay except on the Wild coast and maybe on or two others over the long years.
There is nothing worse than being trained to do the job, but have no tools.
So it was great to have lugged this extra 15 kilos of emergency care gear all over the land and then actually get several opportunities to open seals, break out dressings and splint broken legs. And as some of the kit was close to time-ex, I can for once replenish without having to discard unused stuff.
I'm now on a new maritime emergency care course to sharpen those skills and be more current on my protocols and ability to give best treatment. http://www.nsri.org.za/2015/05/maritime-emergency-care-conference/
Epic!!!
Thanks for the feedback ...
Thanks Charles/Andy/Geoffx2/Craig for your feedback. Especailly Craig for your honesty. Seems like i just need to jump knowing that there will be more than enough guys to catch me (with Andy waiting in the wings to patch me up)!
Hope to meet you all on a trip in the not too distant future.
Rgds
Peter
Nice report Anne. I fixed a few things:
Some feedback (and this is just standard word-processing/document editing). I see you have not used any section headings in the document. Google uses headings to prioritize keywords in searches. Also, it is the right thing to do. Making some text bold and/or underlined or a different colour or bigger only makes it look like a heading (to the reader). World processors and Google look for the heading tags (h2, h3 etc).
By setting text to a particular heading (using the bar that normally has "paragraph" in it in the toolbar), you also ensure your document looks the same as all the others in the site (brand consistency).
If you want more info on this, google "semantic markup".
Thanks for the advice Charles and the repair work. I will bear in mind for next time
one of the Best ever reports!!!!!!!!!!!
Well done Anne.
Eish I am missing Lesotho right now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Have to settle for the upcoming "Sea to Ski" Tour.........at least we will get to ride a small part of this Tour.